KJS

Thanks for the replies. I switched the LED back to Halogen and the light just went off. Took me a while to locate where I kept the original halogen. This is rather strange, the LED lights up but is not suitable to be used So normally it would be nearly 100kms when finishing first bar of fuel Now only 60kms.. and idling sits higher. When car is in D and stationary, the rpm sits at 700rpm (used to be 600rpm) When car is in P and stationary, the rpm will hunt a little. The oil I use is Penrite 10W-40.

Hi all, I have 3 questions: My Fuel Light is constantly on ever since I replaced the LED bulb. (since 2wks ago) Before the replacement, I never see the Fuel Light on even when I am left with half bar. The 5-SMD LED bulb is said to be suitable for "T10 194 168 W5W 5050" I am wondering, is there something wrong with the LED 5-SMD bulb? or something wrong with my Fuel System? (Fuel Injectors, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump etc) or something wrong with the original light bulb -_- My idling is a little rough recently. (since 3wks ago) If you can see from the photo, the idling is about 100rpm more than usual 600rpm. Sometimes I notice rpm needle has very slight fluctuation, but sometimes it just sits there. It used to be steady 600rpm at idling. Would this be a vacuum leak or boost leak? (sorry, i don't have a gauge) I get 305kms before reaching half bar of fuel (but every morning I need to endure 8kms of traffic congestion on the way to work) My oil pressure, is it a little low? (about 2months) It has been like this for a while. I have changed oil and oil filter recently. The vehicle is an 1993 RB25DET Automatic stock. I am not very good at car.

thanks everyone, so far I received 3 replies from SAU! I wish to do it by myself based on the "installation manual" from SAU but I am a zero mechanic guy (I don't have the correct tools and just relocated from Brisbane) yes I don't mind to travel far to get the job done I just purchase the lock bar from ISC Performance and I think i don't have the hydraulic line... do i need it? My vehicle is an R33 sedan

Does anyone know any mechanic who could install the HICAS lock bar and do a wheel alignment? I had called up quite a number of workshop which I found from the internet but is not fruitful...many have not heard about HICAS. Moderator does not allow poster to post workshop name, so kindly pm me if you know some where. I have the lock bar, therefore scope would be install and wheel alignment. I live in Homebush area and work near Blacktown area, any place near here would be good! many thanks

no one is interested? i posted this on boostcruising as well, and a few are eyeing the volt gauge and and water temp anyone is interested in the oil pressure gauge?

*bump* anyone wants to make me an offer?

Hi recently I just came back from foreign country and bought some SARD Style Gauges. These gauges are all new, they are replicas but work great, come with boxes. The rear is cleaner than most gauges with just wires coming out from one hole Size is 2.625" (66.675mm) -I have attached a flybuy card as reference (wanted to install them in my car but realised I only do daily driving so..) Location: Brisbane city, West End near Coles [Pick Up anytime day/night] Contact: 0410 139 151 (TXT) [JS] Pictures and Price =================== Water Temp Gauge [$70] - cold start monitor, important for mountain driving http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1605/watert...rontandrear.jpg Water Temp Sensor connector/Piping for Radiator hose [$25] http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/5163/watertemppipe.jpg Oil Pressure Gauge [$75] - important for drag race to prevent engine rebuild (if oil press decrease when drag/accelerating, time to slow down!!] http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1836/oilp...rontandrear.jpg Voltage Meter Gauge [$70] - monitor battery condition, below 11 means time to switch battery (14 is good enough) http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3900/voltsfrontrear.jpg Stands (total 3), each [$20] - rear of all gauges are clean, so no cup is required! http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/453/standf.jpg Sample pic when light is on - this one is mounted on steering holder on my 4WD. http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2672/lighton.jpg

so you mean, even if you have a crack in radiator, the pressure will still hold?? no coolant had drained from my car when it was stationary tho the thing is, OCASSIONALLY I have white smoke from rear and found the coolant level decrease in the tank last few days, even when the weather was cold, there's no white smoke came up I had shorten my car warming period (so maybe warm up like 2-3 minutes instead of 57 minutes) and just drove off and hasn't seen any coolant level lowered at the tank I will stop worry for a while (by taking you guys' advice), but guys please keep track if this thread appear on top again, lol thanks again

at first I thought it is condensation, because of the cold weather. but the smoke is a bit too much and the wind will blow to the front passenger screen however the thing is, I cannot define it as blown gasket because when I starts driving the car, the smoke will be totally gone. and most the time it will not happen again in next start up, or even next cold start it happens occasionally sometimes even if the night is cold, it doesn't happen the unpredictable manner makes me think this is worth to be worried. if the cold night has smoke, next morning when I check the coolant level of the tank on left side (driver side), it is lower than the H level but when I open the radiator cap, it is still full or maybe insignificant drop. now I am not worried about whether the engine has been overheated but I am wondering why the coolant level has dropped I mean randomly dropped and random white smoke

no there's no coolant leak on the floor. now I am only worry about: is my engine burning coolant? why ocassionaly there's smoke during cold start (I don't think it is condensation because the coolant level in tank has decreased a bit, maybe 1-2cm from the max but radiator only drop a tiny bit), and yes I top up the coolant to check this and only manage to discover the slightly lower volume after seeing smoke happen also when I started the car, the coolant in the radiator didn't have bubbles or the coolant amount didn't drop (of course that time also didn't have white smoke) so it does not always happen, it happen ocassionally you reckon I don't need to worry? I just feel worry because I am afraid a hidden problem might be there just that I don't know.

Hi the coolant level has ocassionally gone down a bit. During very cold weather, ocassionally (I mean it doesn't usually happen but sometimes it just happen), when the car is started and the weather is cold (eg in the late night or early morning), there's white smoke coming off. However when you drive away, the smoke is gone. to describe it more detail, it only happens during warm up. process: start car, no smoke, after a while waiting for car to get warm, then smoke, drive away, smoke is gone. Mech has put 1bar pressure on the radiator cap and it holds the pressure, so he said it is fine and gasket has no problem. The thing is, why only cold start? and it does not happen when car drives away or in later start. is my gasket fine? I would say the level of coolant in radiator remains high to the top but the level of coolant in the tank on driver side has gone down a little. hose is tight, cat converter is fine (was checked few days ago), engine oil level is fine. so what is the problem? also the coolant has no discolouration (remains green after top up with demineralised water)

it's strange, there's no leak .... and the mech put 1 bar pressure on top of the radiator and it holds the pressure he said everything is tightened

hmm the coolant tank on the driver side (left side of engine bay if you stand in front) was empty coolant was low but didn't know how low then I refilled with demineralised water on both the tank and the radiator both took 1.25L I guess if you say as long as there's a few L there gauge should accurate, means the water temp meter is working fine and so as the coolant sensor I was thinking if there's less coolant needed to be heated, why the required time to warm the engine is the same compare to the past (when there wasn't leak) I also checked the engine oil and it remains at H

I used a demineralised water to filled up both the coolant tank and radiator (pour from the radiator cap) it took about 1.25L for the tank to reach max level and top of radiator. do you think throughout this 600kms+ drive the engine has been damaged?

Hi what would happen if the car has been run without coolant but the temperature meter (the one next to fuel meter) works like usual? these are the things: 1) the temperature meter works like the same as when there's coolant in radiator. takes 5 minutes for cold start to move the needle and 7 minutes to warm up 2) when realise the coolant leak and coolant is dried/gone, why the time for the car to warm up remains the same? whenever the car is warmed and driving, it reaches half of the temp meter (with or without coolant) but isn't it when there's no coolant the engine will become overheat and the needle will move up more than half of the meter? what possible damage has been done to the car or engine? (it has been run for 600kms after last coolant flush during service throughout these 600kms the car takes the same time to warm up like before there's no indication that the engine is overheat judging from the temp meter (or was there?) because the needle never moves up more than half is the coolant temperature sensor faulty? fyi the coolant leak is between the coolant bottle on the driver side engine bay and the radiator, i am guessing the hose wasn't tightened but will send to mechanic tomorrow since he was the one who last serviced my car

yea I am thinking to remove the HICAS with the lock bar but people around me suggest me to find out the problem before removing it because it indicates a problem my power steering fluid has been changed lately after a major service tho

so how was it? my car has a dent too but i don't really want to pay 80 for removing a dent or is 80 consider cheap?

I live in East Brisbane, anyone from that area? I am new to skyline too, just got a sedan R33 last year cheers

I am looking for the same answer though this thread is 5 years old I hope someone kind could reply thanks in advance

Hicas Problem: HICAS Solenoid R.H. HICAS Solenoid L.H. Fail-Safe Valve Vehicle SPeed Sensor Steering Angle Sensor Steering Neutral Position Sensor Parking Brake Sensor Inhibitor Sensor among these i think only fail-safe valve and inhibitor sensor is related to car temperature? when the coolant temperature is low and if the car is ignited there will be no HICAS it's just when it is non-cold start then HICAS will turn on what is fail-safe valve (where is it?) and inhibitor sensor could someone explain? cheers

any idea? *bump* speed sensor is fine, power steering fluid is fine, fuses are fine....what else?

Hi i have a strange hicas problem. Car is 1993 R33 Sedan Auto RB25DET The HICAS usually light on every second start of the day. Which means everyday when I first start my car, it is fine. Till I reach somewhere and turn off the ignition, after a while turn on again, the HICAS light will comes on. So it is like, for a non-cold start, the hicas will light on. Everything is fine, all fuses are checked (under driver's side and rear boot). Mechanic asked me to seek help from a power steering specialist. What do you guys think? I tried to run the HICAS diagnostic but it never success, tried a couple times and the engine check light never flash. I wonder is there anyway to diagnosis the HICAS? has anyone encounter this before? also does HICAS affect fuel consumption? cause I have been having 16L/100kms for a very stock car. should I remove the HICAS with a lock bar for daily driving (normal drive)? car had just recently been major serviced.

I had a different experience. When I bought my car from them, they actually pulled off the wastegate tube beforehand before the test drive, so the car runs faster or turbo came in quicker. (one of the tube near the AFM, later discovered by my friend because I complained that the car consumes 250kms/full tank) had windscreen problem (3 gunshots marks in front of driver's view) and they didn't want to replace, till I threatened with the warranty, and they replaced it finally. the front headlight was lose, they asked me to drive to a wrecker to get the part which he had ordered instead of he himself getting it and replace. after I bought the car and sent to RACQ check, one of the suspension had a split and required a change asked them to change but they didn't want to, same like the windscreen (which is a safety issue, and yes he still manage to get a safety cert -_-) eventually he changed the suspension but.........(wtf why should I beg him to do this??) this is the most frustrating thing I want to mention: he didn't tighten the bolt properly after he changed the suspension or whatever! and when I drove back home that night I could hear sound under my car, luckily I was near my friend's house at ferny else god knows i might have met with an accident. but I want to say a few good things about them: the car's price is good.I spent 3 months looking for a skyline and he had the bets price. the paint is good, the condition is good (except that it still consumes max 300kms for full tank now, so not sure what is wrong with it) tires are good too. he has some bad attitudes at times, or maybe just to me because i pushed him to change this and that. you have been warned and good luck with new ride. well it is my first car so I guess it is reasonable that I had this experience cheers

will this be able to fit on a R33 series 1 sedan?

do you have a picture of your exhaust? is the cat converter working fine?