KJS

the doors are really awesome my saliva are out. too bad, it seems hard to reach lol I wonder any panel shop in Brisbane does that.

the idling is...around 850rpms this is an auto car so I can only approximate when it reaches around 60km/h I could hear hiss sound, before that, there is a very very very slight hiss (not constantly but sharp, on off) when it reaches 80km/h, I could hear pssssstt....with windows closed and music on anything beyond 110km/h I could only hear suuuuuuuuuuuuuu between 80-110 there will be two-three sound, the obvious one are turbo and pod filter, but there is another psst sound (weaker sound) .... most likely there is no boost leak because the car doesn't stall everything is stock, so the sidemount should be lol I have a question, the PVC endcap, what diameter should I be buying? what is the diameter of the AFM?

it is not taken off, still there.

the thing is... I sprayed around and there is no any changes in the rev or whatever (except the exhaust because my mate said could ignite) however when I drive, there is psstt sound....which is quite loud even when I am hearing music and closed windows, I could still hear the sound (sounds like gas leakage) it is from the left side of the front my car is stock and the pod filter is not properly mounted but just tied properly and connected (so one side of it sort of kissing the chassis of the car) the mechanic said the engine sound is good, doesn't seem like there is a leak (but he hasn't heard the sound when it is driving) and also after changing o2 sensor, still getting only 300kms per tank. so, I suspect I didn't spray every parts which I should be to find the leak or the sound could be due to the friction between the air entering the pod filter and the chassis actually the sound, instead of describing it as pssssttt, I would say it sounds like suuuuuuu by the way, the car is auto, sound starts to get loud after 2300rpms or climbing a hill. what do you guys think? so anyone has a picture of where to spray or just where cannot be sprayed. any other way which is slightly easier for a newbie to identify?

Let's say you want to check for vacuum leak or boost leak you have a bottle of Aerostart/Start Ya which part you should be spraying when the car is idling? can someone post a picture of the engine bay and circle with red lines? (assuming the car is R33 RB25DET S1) there are so many hoses and pipes....(I am afraid if I spray the wrong place and the car goes flaming) if there is a leak, the rev will change right?

Hi I wonder is anyone selling this? SAFC Neo If not, anyone know where I could get it with a cheaper price? It is for an R33 RB25DET Auto cheers. Joon

I changed my O2 sensor, then I bought those liquid to mix with fuel which helps in cleaning the fuel injector (I am not sure whether it works). I also changed the oil filter and engine oil. the thing that concerns me is after changing the oxygen sensor, the mechanic used a scanner and plug in the plug under the driver's steering. He said the scanner detected no error code so the O2 sensor might not be the cause (unless it is running but getting lazy). He also said the sound is good and sound like no vacuum leak. He said the scanner cannot detect fuel injector so he sid could be that problem, or catalytic is blocked? then he told me to drive and sees how it goes. my friend also used a "start ya" to check for vacuum leak and apparently no the car goes with smooth boost too now my first slot is just slightly more than 100kms. do you guys reckon that is alright for an Automatic RB25DET? do you think I should clean the AFM with Carbie Cleaner (I come across this method many times in this forum) do you think I should change plug? also the pod filter sound is quite loud... is it supposed to be like that? I really seldom drive fast and is everything is stock except the aftermarket 3" exhaust (I didn't know it is aftermarket till my friend told me) and the pod filter. could you guys list out more things before getting remap? because I doubt i have the money to get aftermarket ECU now, lol eg what else to check...

i want to know too anyone has any websites or address?

okay I will try changing the O2 sensor. and also I will check whether there is leak along fuel line but I doubt it unless the dealer is really that mean then I will try to check those vacuum. if I have extra money maybe an Apexi Power FC like everyone does (isn't it expensive??? haha) but thanks for those posters above.

Hi I am new to this forum. Just got my 1st car last week, spent my half year saving from work. It's a 1993 Nissan Skyline ECR33 Sedan Auto white many people prefer to have a manual turbo but I haven't driven manual/cars for a few years due to oversea study so I bought an auto also due to budget hahaha I am from Brisbane somewhere near Gabba Stadium, doing final year in QUT. anyway glad to join this forum, hope to understand more about this car. cheers Joon Sing

so does that mean by having a better cooling system will also affect the fuel usage? such as radiator and intercooler the bov which i am having is stock and water sensor plug, afm also related to fuel usage? seems like the PFC which everyone has, works good in this. did you change everything at once? or you change things one by one and observe the consumption? (could you list which one is the most worth changing in the favourable order)

Hi I just got a used R33 Sedan Auto GTS-T from a dealer. the fuel consumption I think is ridiculous after reading what you guys had posted. basically it has no mod under bonnet except a pod filter (without taking suspension, wheels, turbo timer those into account) the first tank of fuel it used could only produce 250kms now after spending around $150 in fuel, it can only reach 450kms (since I bought the car a week ago). what is strange about the car is, the vacuum is blocked. now my friend connected the vacuum to somewhere near the sensor near the pod. and reset the ECU by unplugging the battery and plug it back. I wonder if the fuel efficiency still has no improvement, what apparoach should I follow next? should I.....do like what was posted earlier Aftermarket ECU + remap + piggyback? or first try changing O2 sensor? what's the next step. anyone knows approximately how much would those cost?