Haxorz

Ok, before I'm about to lose my job from spending too much time at work on personal calls - I've narrowed my options to the ones below: 1. Just a front pipe, mild steel, coated and fitted in about 30 mins from Daalder exhaust in Box Hill - $190 2. Mail order a mild steel combo dump pipe from UAS or flyn.com.au - $320 and then pay someone here to fit it 3. Custom made stainless front+dump pipe fitted from Nizpro in Bayswater - $385 (would take a day to make + fit it). I think I'll go with option 3 - thank you all for your opinions. A friend from work (BlueTwo on these forums) had his exhaust made by them at it seems pretty nice. Just can't justify spending ~$350 on a Jap brand dump and then ~$250 for a Jap brand front pipe - sorry meggala! (I can't wait for the 'I told you so' when it starts to rattle and bump around!).

Thanks for the tip! I gave them a call, and they'll fit a mild steel coated front pipe for $190! They also have stainless dump pipes for $350, but no 'combo' pipes. Should I bother with a dump pipe for the stock turbo or spend more time searching around for one of these combo pipes? Unless I blow it up I won't be changing my turbo, and I really don't see myself spending $350 on a dump. The guy from Daalder seemed to indicate most of the benefit is seen in the front pipe upgrade, and Nizpro advised a friends 200sx to not bother about one for the stock SR20DET turbo. Is this the case on a Skyline? He also mentioned better response, acceleration and a 1-2psi natural boost increase :headspin:

Thanks meggala! The website's looking good! Keep it up Thanks for the tip ronin, I'll give them a call. I don't suppose anyone has a GTech so I can do some before and after 0-100's etc for the fitting of the dump/front pipe? Benm did a great review however the dyno graphs don't have a 'time' axis so the true gain isn't displayed.

Hiya rev210, How much benefit have you noticed with the S-AFC II installed? I would have thought with your mods that you wouldn't have experienced much gain? I was thinking of one too but I thought I'd only bother if I went a FMIC. Are your air/fuel ratios that rich with only a full exhaust and 10psi and worth 'correcting'? If so, then I might look at doing the same after my dump/front pipe (my priority!).

When some f*ckers :Bang: smashed my passenger window and stole some things of mine I got a new one from: RENEW auto importers 40 Bennet Street Dandenong Phone (03) 9706 7822 www.renewauto.com.au for $160 which I thought was very reasonable (it would have been 150 if they had one in stock but they ordered it in from somewhere).

Hi Guys, Just wonder were would be the best place in the SE Suburbs to get one of these? I'm after a combination dump + front pipe for an R33 GTS25t. Would prefer HPC. Open to either custom made or new/second hand Jap brand. Cheers. Something like this:

So how did it go? (Is it true a $300 and something dollar EBC that works???)

Also, any ideas on what sort of boost level rise I can expect from adding the front/dump? I haven't touched the boost and am running 6.5/8.5psi with a 3.5" cat back and pod. Question is cause I'm looking at putting in a dual bleed valve setup (aka Zahos) and don't want to go over 10psi if I can help it.

Hi Guys, Anyone know where you can get a one piece dump/front pipe for an R33 GTS25t in Victoria for that sort of price? Would HPC alone be good or Thermo wrap be better?. HPC sounds more convenient. Cheers, David.

Just for the record, I've been pulled over (wasn't for speeding, was for *apparantly* passing a stopped tram) - and my ticket arrived by mail. The policeman (very friendly and respectful) didn't know the exact name of the infrindgement. If you know you were guilty, don't worry about it - I'd just pay the fine and move on . I contested mine - received a summons to go to court, then withdrew my objection and now I'll just be paying it. All of that extra stress etc, you just don't need it :hippy:! Also, its your word against theirs. Do what I did and don't bother wasting tax payers money and peoples time going to court knowing that you did do whatever it was. For those like me that truly question whether you deserved the ticket - think of all those other times you have sped, copied games, taped TV!, drank underage, done burnouts, etc etc and haven't been caught. Sure I was a bit of a pushover in not going through with the objection, but I think I'm still ahead just a bit! :jester:

hehehehe good to see you're keeping your profile up to date! :jester:

Excellent! So that's around a 25rwkw increase at the same boost level from a cooler + SAFC! Awesome. It's clutch+turbo changing time I think if you plan to go any higher although for me ~185rwkw would be just right I think. So it's just this plus a full exhaust and pod right? How are you controlling the boost? Bleed valve or EBC? To compare, I've got a cat back 3.5" and a pod, stock boost + cooler and am getting 148rwkw. Looks like cooler + SAFC (if required) is next!

Very little now (pretty much none), thanks to both pineapples and adjusting the rear softer. I still get a bit of body roll around corners, I think sway bars should help this problem. Thanks MYGTST. How do you find the shocks/springs? At first they were too hard for me, now that I've adjusted them all the way soft at the rear and half-way at the front there great.

Hopefully its not just mainly a 'placebo' effect, would be good to see the before and after dyno results (you did get a before one, right? ). Have you noticed your car naturally boosting slightly higher now?

I've got adjustable NISMO shockers, and was wondering if they can be revalved/regassed/rebuilt (whatever the correct term is!). No idea what type they are, other than they have 1-5 increments on the front, and 1-3 on the rear - oh and the're blue.

Or sooner, if you want to get a car imported under the old scheme you really need to get it on a boat by late Feb at the latest, otherwise you might run out of time (shipping 4/5 weeks + compliance 1 week or more as complicance houses get busy... getting close to that May date ). I really would have loved that modded GTT in the next year or so...:drooling: you're right though, I'm sure they'll find a way around it - I hope this discussion can give importers/RAWS ideas.

Ahhh good point, meggala, didn't know that. There has to be a loophole somewhere?! Or maybe we'll just have to rely on RAWS who can dodge the system? Sure, they'll be strict for the first few months - but who in there right mind could crush a perfectly good $1500 Apexi exhaust (for example)? It's insane. I wonder about the rules regarding a RAWS who could take the mods off for you while in Japan? Or maybe even comply the car in Japan? Hmmmm.

I used to live in Japan for a little while and investigated this - unfortunatley the costs of keeping the vehicle for a year (storage/parking) are greater than any saving, although I didn't exactly have the best contacts for storage etc and was staying in the most expensive city. (see my Avatar, that was in the Nissan showroom in Ginza, Toyko - cool place!) I do have family in NZ, I think might be more like it! I wouldn't mind hearing some (anonymous) ideas from an importer or a compliance shop?

I'm sure everyone is as concerned as I am... and I was thinking if there would be any way around these new laws? Is there anything wrong with this idea? If cars need to be complied in stock form, and modified parts removed and destroyed, how about: 1. Modified parts removed from car in Japan and shipped separatley to AUS. 2. Compliance shop in AUS keeps stock of commonly replaced factory parts (like factory exhaust, cooler, turbo), fits these to vehcile for the compliance (and removes after). 3. Third party re-fits mods. Sure this means more labour costs but at least perfectly good and $$$ mods won't be destroyed? Would this work? Has someone already thought of another way around this?

INASNT (and everyone else), change your fuel filter asap if you haven't already. This *cheap* little item can easily rob you of performance and economy if dirty!

For Oil Filters, I use the Ryco Z145A (yes, the one for 300zx's and VL's). I've also used a Valvoline one (the equivalent item number is V04 from memory). Cheers, David.

Type S only came out in the R32, and yes they are non turbo. There are no R33 Type-S (I have the new car catalogue for the R33). I think Grand Turismo is pretty accurate with the car specs as well, sounds silly but its a good reference I found.

I've heard someone say the same thing (not sure how creditable the source was though). They said something like '5w is too thin for turbos'? Hmmm.... anyway. The Shell website's oil recommender recommends 15w-50w Shell Helix Ultra for a R32 GTR, although in the shops I've only ever seen 5w-50w Shell Helix Ultra?

I agree - Mobil 1 is quite expensive. I use Shell Helix Ultra as well, and picked up about 5x5litres of it from Super Cheap Auto when they had a 20% off day on boxing day Regular price is around the $45 mark, although you can get it for around $42 on special. Between Kmart, Big W and Super Cheap Auto one of them will usually have a good price on Shell. Forget Autobarn - they are always about $4-5 more (they also refused an unconditional 20% off voucher I got from one of those entertainment books on the oil ) Mobil 1 at best I've seen it at around $50. Usually more (56) from memory. Shell Helix Ultra is fully synthetic, and has a viscosity of 5w-50w (the SAE grade). This refers to the thickness and the thiness of an oil. There is also another measure of oil quality, it starts with S for petrol?? SA,SB... etc, the higher the second letter the better. It should state somewhere in a service book that a car needs at least SC for example. Honestly, I'm not sure this is overkill for the skyline, or if a regular or even a semi-synethic oil would also be ok. Opinions? If you have big mods and drive it hard, I'd use the good stuff and service it often. Basic mods and not so hard (like me) - maybe I can get away with something cheaper? I gotta say though, I do notice it, the car responds great from an oil change.