nvsA4

it's shadow chrome, can be a c**t of a job, you have to rub the wheel down, paint it back (either solid or COB but it must be shinny) then apply the shadow chrome without rubbing the wheel this time

those flared guards are massive, looks tough as, the SL65 was already awesome

white 911 is my boss, has heaps of the old plates, one stage we had 4 million dollars worth in the shop window, 15 i think is still for sale for $750,000

is the kit plastic or fibreglass? if it's plastic it's very somple, just give it a gray scotch, clean it with plastic cleaner then spray sp,e plastic primer then treat it like any outher color. If it's fibreglass i would bake (at about 40 anything else is to hot for fibreglass) it first because they seem to get massive pin holes in it, then prime it and bake it again, rub it bake and then treat it like any other panel. if it's fibreglass it may come already primed and if it does you can rub that and paint over it but at work we have found it's alot better to reprime it otherwise it tends to pin hole or leave bubbles which will just chip off

looked at a r32 GTR from a dealer once, went with a mate who is a mechanic, the guy said we could it for a test drive. Before we did my mate poped the bonnet to check every thing 1st. all the pipes were just hanging on, the intercooler pipes were not connected just hanging near it not even touched the ends of the cooleer, Oil level was very low and the oil was dirty as f**k and finnaly it had no coolent. Was told all these things get fixed after i buy it so it can get a roady.

it's not a AC Schnitzer car, his just got the bar on it, it's not a M6 so it's either a 640, 645 or 650, it's a individual color from BMW, did he still have the black wheels on it?

the XC Cobra????

+1 for a SLR5000, and those HQ Mazda Roadpacer things might have a rotary in them but they werent turboed so the power to weight is pretty bad, there was one for sale a few months ago

if your to generous it will lead to solvant boil so dont go overbored

orange with black bonnet and wheels would look horn

if your going to clear it do it in two coats, the 1st coat should be very light so it's almost dry then let it tack off, then allpy the 2nd coat which should be wet

as said before, plastic primer would be best then wax & grease remover (also known as prepsol) If the paint is metallic it WILL need a clear coat otherwise it will have a matt finish, If it's a solid black i would think the can of paint you have is a can of 2 pac paint which will leave it with a gloss finish but like all 2 pac paints will fade quite abit over time

got my normal grandstand ticket, 5th row right in front of the start line

ok saying it like that i know what you mean it's normally called a flow coat, yes the clear will look better and deeper but i personally think P2000 is way to fine to clear over, think about it you buff over P2000 and i know of a few show cars that have done this and after a few years it's all flaking off, i would personally only reclear over P1200 or P800

never heard of it, do you mean high solid?