r31slpr

Probably be easier and cheaper to just have new hard lines made. The rest of the change over should be pretty straight forward just make sure you get a non abs master.

I'd already typed that reply before i saw yours haha it just took me 10 minutes to post it. Thanks again, your reply was exactly what i was looking for.

Cheers for the reply's. I'm not against getting a proper weld in cage and I'm not even sure if i'll be doing any events. I was thinking bolt in for ease of removal as its still a streeter for now. Just curious do you happen to know why cams and andra don't approve bolt ins? I'm guessing the bolts are a weak point Edit: You just answered my question, thanks

I'm aware if I want to compete in motorsport events the cage will have to comply with their regulations. But my main question is if i put the car on its roof, will a decent bolt in hold up?

I've been thinking about getting a bolt in half cage lately and noticed that lots of people are hating on bolt ins, saying that they are not really that great in a rollover and are more for rigidity. I haven't spoken to any actual cage builders about this yet. But from what i can see on here, 'Risking' and a few others do this for a living. So i thought i'd post up here and see what peoples opinions on bolt ins are.

You mean something like this http://www.gktech.com.au/product_detail.asp?id=gear-bush? Not brass though, theres another type on the site if that ones wrong.

may be from the breather pipe, its above the bell housing. probably unlikely if you haven't driven it for that long though. wipe down the box so theres no oil marks then watch to see where it comes from

Looks like you'll have to have it pulled and painted then, it shouldn't cost too much. But is it really worth it? Its a fair amount of effort for such a small dent. It could easily happen again aswell from even a nut falling from a tree

No to both of those options for repair, have you looked into paintless dent removal? Or if its to hard to pull out that way because of the frame underneath, the panel beater should have a dent puller which welds a little pin on then you chuck the slide hammer on and pull it out easy as. No drilling or cutting of any sort

The ryco part number will be A360 so any auto store should be able to cross reference that and find the k&n equivalent. Most of the early commodores use it, vl,vp,vn,vr,vs. R31's use it, and i'm pretty sure s13,14 and 15's use it aswell

Wow i feel bad for saying they're good now, sorry to you guys that had problems. I cant say i ever did. Guess i'll think twice before going there again

You wont get a great finish without doing it properly. But if you want no obvious raised edge, mask slightly wider than the area your spraying sort of fold the tape in half like this

Just gonna take a stab at this, Those pictures look as though its coming apart due to the force of the constant moving of the brake line. Adr approved brake lines have to pass a whip test before being approved and they all have a little plastic sleeve on the ends of them near the join for exactly this reason. Race cars dont really have to worry about this problem as the service and inspection regime is more strict.

If the sill is in good condition and the panel beater does his job properly, you'll have no problem with rust, fitment, strength etc. As for your dispute with nissan, i have no idea. Good luck

I'll +1 that, I used to deliver parts to them, great place to deal with for anything

From what i gather it would be a bad idea due to thermal expansion, different materials expand at different rates, example: ally head, iron block and stainless head gasket. Theres a lot of heat in the combustion chambers

Get a decent wheel alignment, it will fix your problems Unless all your bushes and ball joints are completly flogged out

If its a car your seriously thinking of getting, it pays to get a pre-purchase inspection by a workshop. should only cost hundred odd dollars or something

It can be done pretty easily, but make sure the rims have enough meat on the mounting surface to be able to do it. As for places that do it, im not sure, im in wa

There's no need to stress anyway its only 400 odd ks, theres heaps of places to get petrol even if your car is chewing through it.

Im pretty sure jurien is the only Bp between perth and gero, i havnt used it so not sure if its got 98. All the Bps in gero have 98

Pretty sure badgingarra is shell, I think eneabba is shell aswell. Personally i wouldn't take a jerry can, just fill up with what you can and if its shit don't thrash the car until you get another tank of 98. You should see if you can sort out whats causing your high fuel consumption, i've done the trip heaps of times and never used a full tank in either my 180 or 31

Are you taking the coast road to gero? Jurien has a Bp so i'd assume it has 98, theres also a caltex. If you top up your tank there you'll make it the whole way easy. Theres a few other petrol stations on the way aswell but i dont know if they have 98, just take a bottle of octane booster with you. If you make it to dongara before you need some, they have a shell and a bp on the highway. Geraldton has a gull and a bp on the highway in. If your going the inland way i dont think cataby has 98 anymore so you'll probably just have to fill it up with whatever they've got or take some octane booster aswell for piece of mind

You'll probably have to go back over it by hand with a fine cut to get the marks out. Just my 2c I'm not a fan of meguires cutting compounds, it was drying too fast so left marks every where and just wasnt really that great. Autoglym make brilliant products for pretty much anything you need, do like the meguires deep crystal wet look polish though.

Its pretty straight forward, if they're not approved they wont cover it, if it is they will. The options are there because you can get approval for most things, its just difficult. Aftermarket cam gears, ecu, injectors, etc all change the emissions of the car, so you'll probably have to undergo an emissions test to get it approved. Also the ecu will need to be password protected by i think either the tuner or the engineer who approves it so that you cant play with it. (Effectively changing the emissions, so the car will no longer comply with the emissions test) I'm not entirely sure on vicroads stuff but thats just a general guide