r31slpr

Sorry if i'm wrong about anything I haven't aligned a stagea, but you said you took out the arms and coils so guessing. Rear toe, standard arms, run out of adjustment on standard eccentric bolts? Unless it has hicas? then you should have enough adjustment. Should aim for fairly neutral for the street, around 0 Rear camber, standard arms, Guessing no adjustment because the initial and final aren't far off each other, can just be the vehicle moving that changed the numbers. Front castor, standard arms, no adjustment but good enough for the street. Front camber, standard arms, same as rear no adjustment Front toe, not too bad but odd.. should be about +.5 or.6 or even 0 just watch the shoulders of the front tyres for the first couple hundred kms to determine whats right Personally i wouldn't bother what the computer says in regards to vehicle specs, because they're pretty weird sometimes. But meh just drive it a bit see how it feels, watch your tyre wear and go from there

Usually a good idea to do the spigot at the same time just for piece of mind. they're pretty cheap so it will save you having to pull the box out again later to do it

Your in Perth yeah? Try veale auto parts, few stores around, or supercheap, auto one, etc

Thanks, thought that was about right

Can anybody confirm that r32gtst and r33gtst rear brake setups are the same? I'm buying rotors soon and just need to know if they are the same part number between 32 and 33. That's what the dba website says but they've been wrong before. Cheers

One of my mates has had two monaros stolen in the last month, port kennedy area. same description as first post. cops said most likely profesional outfit

I had a few bottles of brake fluid sitting in the boot of my car for a couple of days and when i pulled them out i noticed condensation on the bottles. I know that brake fluid is hygroscopic but will the plastic bottle be porous enough to let moisture through into the fluid? So should i use them or chuck them out? Only one of the bottles has been opened so far, so the others are sealed. Cheers

Sold my car in 3 hours last week, from time of advertising to signing transfer papers haha

I don't really have any suggestions on whats causing it other than maybe a blocked fuel filter, or lots of crap in your tank. But if it dies again near geraldton you'd be better off getting it towed back to perth, none of the shops up there know anything about imports except for one guy but i can't remember where he works.

One of your tyres may be out of round or have a separation in it, take the wheel off and check the tyre over. It will be pretty obvious if there is something wrong.

Who ever painted it should have polished the undamaged panels first, sprayed out a few colour cards and matched it in direct sunlight. Best possible way to get a match even with the paint code, because paint fades/slightly changes colour and they would have to play with the tinters, pearl, etc to get it right. The whole door shouldn't need to be painted, it should have been blended in when they did the quarter panel.

What colour is it? some colours are harder to match than others Did you get it done through insurance? If so most insurance company's state that the work has to be to a factory standard, so take it back to him and if he argues call your insurance company and get an assessor to come have a look at it If it was a cashie he is still liable for his work but it will be harder to fight

Yeah it should just be that tab in the second picture. If you have some picks or a really tiny flat head you can push it slightly under the black part from underneath which should hold down the white clip, the grab the plug with both hands and it should come apart easily. Its kinda hard to explain but once you get it you should never have a problem, unless the plug is to brittle and breaks

Whats your alignment like? more than likely the cause of the problem. If you put up a picture of the tyre it will be easier to tell what caused it to fail

I think you posted this in the wrong section. Avc-r is a boost controller not an ecu. Im not sure about the wiring but im guessing it would have, permanent pwr wire, switched(ign), ground & solenoid. If its cutting in and out without losing its settings it sounds like the ignition wire may be loose or if it has a fuse that may be loose. Check all your connections again. How are the connected? crimp terminals, soldered? If you have a multimeter check for continuity, etc. or maybe take it to an auto sparky

Harris engines in osborne park, or southsides

Possibly a threaded sleeve? m10 to m12 not much to work with given the size difference. Or a sleeve that goes further down the gearstick with grub screws holding it in place?

In Wa, but dont mind buying them online if i have too

Next question, where can i get them from? Tossing up between imperial and metric aswell, was thinking imperial since most measurements related to motors is imperial. any ideas?

Cheers for the help mitutoyo it is then

Looking at buying a couple micrometers and probably a telescopic gauge set, can anyone recommend some good brands? cheers

o'connor pits are pretty good, been there a few times and havnt had a problem. gets pretty busy though so get there early. they usually have cones out so you know which lane is which

just an exedy heavy duty, yeah thats what i meant about them being the same because in reference to the coppermix above apparently its made by exedy but has a valeo clutch plate. thats why i say same/ same, probably should have made that clear the first time

just the words out of exedy's mouth. when i got a clutch kit from them with a valeo pressure plate, i rang and inquired why and they said 'valeo make our clutches, the one you got just isn't painted pink' they said i could send it back and wait for a pink one but i didn't bother and havn't had a problem with it just my experience, may have changed now but this was only about 6 months ago

exedy/ valeo = same same just different colours