SeRiUs

Idle Fixed: Cold Start = 1100 Warm = 800 Load (A/C + Power Steering) = 900 Remaining Problems: Ugly Front Bumper (Opinions? What should i get? Otherwise ill try find the same one) Leaking suspension (Putting Coilovers on in the next 2 weeks) Has anybody had experience taking a car over the pits with coilovers?

Yeah that was the one Manning Road Bently. What a bargain hey. I used to see it coming home from work too. Then one day my friend told me that his mate was selling a car cheap and i found out it was that car. I was so stoked!!! It will look really nice when i have the new bumper on it.

Picked up a new, second hand valve today. cost me 100 bucks from KYP!!!! He had better give me a good deal on the coilovers lol. Anyway Ben explained where the piping should all go aswell. Fairly common sense, there just has to be flow through the valve. Anyway i also ran some other checks. The solenoid is only supposed to activate when the engine is under load such as power steering and air con. I found that the plug that fits the solenoid outputs 12v all the time. I checked the unused purple plug on the harness and this one outputs 12v only under load. Next step is to clean the new valve in the ultrasonic baths at work . Then fit it, plumb it in properly, cut and rewire the plugs on the harness so the solenoid receives the appropriate voltages and walla - idle works (hopefully )

Lol. Well this morning was worse than ever. Idle was at nearly 3K the whole way to uni (30 mins). Anyway i called up Top Racing cos i was pissed that it was worse than when i gave it to them. They told me to bring it back in. When i started the car up again it was idling at 800 and stayed like that all day. beautiful. The mechanical tune from yesterday cost me $176 and basically all he did was play with a few idle screws. That aside I didnt mind paying him because today he explained to me how the AAC Valve works and that in my car the AAC valve and the cold start valve (controlled by water temp) are part of the same assembly (See pic below). I believe the reason that it idled properly after i turned it off and on again is that the solenoid get stuck. This whole assembly will be replaced as soon as possible. Now, having thought about how all this might work together to control the idle i took the valve off and inspected it again. Knowing the part with the three smaller hoses (2 circled in blue) was the cold start valve i checked to see if water could enter this part properly by blowing into it. It was all blocked up with crap. I pumped water into it and surprise surprise the crap came out and the valve opened (due to the cold water). This was my first win. Now what doesnt make sense is the fact that the two outlets circled in blue are connected together. The water enters through the top one (Yellow) and has no where to go. This is why there was a build up of crap. So, If someone could take a photo of where these two hoses SHOULD connect to then i would very much appreciate it. I will be buying an entirely new valve assembly and believe this will fix my problem if i can plumb it all back in properly. I figure the only time the cold start valve closes would be when the engine get hot enough to heat the entire assembly since hot water is not getting to it. Feels so good when you finally get somewhere. p.s used a headlight polish today. Only took 5 mins and they look like new. If anyone was wondering if this stuff works it does. Cheers, Will

Got it back this afternoon. They just did a mechanical tune on it. Idle when warm is still way high (1500 rpm) so that hasn't improved. Hopefully the cold start tomorrow will be good.

So Top Racing were closed yesterday due to the staff being sick but I dropped it off this morning so im excited to get it back this afternoon. Hopefully it will all be running nice and smoothly. The guys there seem to know what they are doing. Next step will be a new bumper and then the pits. After that, suspension, aftermarket ecu (looking at Wolf3d), upgraded injectors, fuel pump and turbo upgrade. Of course that blows my budget a wee bit but hey...whats the point of having a slow fast car???

Is there anyone else you would suggest that you have had experience with? I would rather get it right the first time round. Have heard these guys are good tho.

Lol. I agree one hundred percent Tez Well when i bought the car my budget was 10k to get it how i want it. So far: Car $5,500 Oil Filter $10 BOV + Heater Hoses $80 Coolent $60 Radiator Flush $10 Oil $40 Battery $75 2 x Maxis 255-40-17 $475 Heater Core $80 Heater Temp thingy $10 Suspension Check Free from Peddars Total $6340 To Come Booked in at Top Racing to fix idle problem - Expecting about $1500 but really don't know Needs new suspension - Expecting about $1000 (install myself) Front Bumper - about 500?? Hoping for a second hand white one. Some sort of aftermarket management (depends on how much idle problem costs to fix) Dyno Tune - $400?? So I think im on track but its a bit hit and miss. I took the car in to Top Racing the other day to speak to them and they had a look and didnt really know where to start. Said the car was missing the warm up valve (cold start valve?) and a bunch of other stuff. So basically they were unable to give me an idea of how much it will cost which to me feels very risky. Dont want to fork out a days labour at $88 and hour and have nothing fixed. No way around it though i suppose, Wish me luck p.s Finally plumbed up the new heater core and installed the new temp sensor and the Heater Works!!! For some reason that valve i was wondering about doesnt need to be connected up in my car (must be a series 1.5 thing) so i just leave it full open.

Cheers guys, I agree I am having fun sorting it all out. I took it down to Pedders to get the suspension checked today tho and they said it was shot so theres another cost. New radiator is probably needed i think but ill sort that out later. Its booked in at Top Racing for Wednesday to get all the idle problems fixed. They told me today its missing the warm up valve or something plus a bunch of other stuff. That is going to be the part i think which makes or breaks the bargain. Could cost me a fortune in which case i would have been better buying something else. Anyway ill keep yall posted Cheers, Will

Really? Basically i dont have the idle control valve connected at the moment (due to engine transplant) so to keep the car from stalling the warm idle is set to 1500. However In coldstart mode this idle goes up to 2200-2500 which is a pain in the arse. I was thinking since cold start idle should be about 1500 anyway i could somehow disable the cold start mode as essentially my idle screw has it in cold start all the time. Does that make any sense? Open to suggestions, Cheers, Will

I would like to know the same thing. I need to dissable it so it will never enter cold start. This is a temporary fix until i get my idle problems sorted. Anyone know where it is and how to do this?

Ok another question for you guys. Because the car came with no heater i had to go and get the heater hoses from KYP. A picture is shown below. My question is what do i do with that valve on there? Presumably it should connect to a solenoid of some sort to control fluid flow? Previously i had just set the valve to full open but then the air seemed to be hot all the time. Questions needing answers 1. What to do with that valve above? 2. A good street/race suspension (second hand budget $800). Thanks in advance Will

Finally finished the job. I had to take the support bar off to get the heater out. A bit of brute force also helped If anyone needs help doing this themselves then I am now an expert lol. Next Step is getting the suspension tested. Might change the suspension anyway because the car is too low and the wheels scrape the side panels at full lock. Anyone recommend some good Street suspension? I would be looking for it second hand as well because i need to save money for the idle problem. I got new tires for the rear wheels aswell. Grand total is now $6,330

Did it come out through the top or did you take that big support bar out?

Thought i would post a pic of the whole thing Cant believe how messy it all is under there! Took about an hour and a half to get it all off so if anyone is thinking about replacing their heater then it is definitely doable.

Ok so i have my dash all in peices. Hope i can remember where everything goes!!! I was wondering if I can remove the heater unit without removing the box circled in red. I cant really see it happening cos i have looked at it from all angles and it is a very snug fit with the aircon unit still in there. It is connected to this on the other side of the firewall. This is the airconditioning i think so i thought i had better ask before i go unbolting things Better safe than sorry. So my question is it necessary to remove the aircon unit and if so what can i expect when i unbolt those metal lines. Cheers, Will

haha cheers for the fast reply! Ok thats good. I was thinking it would take a couple of days. might get into it later today

hahah. no shit. Imagine having to remove the dash twice lol. I went and got it from KYP cos it was easy and i don't mind paying 80 bucks if it give me heat in the winter How much time did you put aside to fit the thing? I am trying to work out when i have time to do it.

lol cheers rinmak. You recon $80 is good value for the unit from KYP?

Ok the dam heater went today. I was hoping it would be ok but it seems there was a reason it was disconnected in the first place lol. Gonna go and pick up a new heater core tomorrow from KYP. Be a bitch to put in tho. Anyone got any experience with this?

Cheers for that. Ill take good care of her Actually i was thinking of booking it into Hyperdrive to get the idle sorted out and put in a powerfc so maybe someone there recognizes it. Thanks again Will

Fixed the heater problem!!! Perfect hot air all the time now and no more bubbles from the radiator lol. Thanks to raps86 for all his help! And yes. hopefully when i seill it in a year or two i will get my money back lol. wouldnt that be a dream. Im not too sure what it is scraping, it isnt the side panels tho. The car is too low to see under it. Anyone know of a way i could check this in my backyard? Maybe put it up on two jacks and test the steering like that? I would be a bit worried at how stable that would be tho.

That is so funny you said that. The clutch is brand new cos it was burned out and i had to buy a new battery cos the other one wouldnt even turn the radio on. If you know anything about the engine conversion could you let me know? I am trying to find out as much as I can. Also did your friend look into fixing the idle problem? I was hoping he had found how to fix it but never got round to it Also did your mate have problems with the heater cos I found it was disconnected. I went and bought new hoses and have plumbed it all back up but it seems to go hot and then cold. I am hoping its an air lock in there so i dont need to replace the whole heater core!

Hey guys this probably isnt the right place to post questions but do you think wheel spacers would solve my offset problems? There is someone selling a set of 15mm ones here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/br...66#entry4175366 Thanks in advance Will

166000Kms Yeah i think the wheels look great but they scrape when i turn hard right. guys at the pits would pick up on that fairly quickly i think and it would drive me mad. If you know anyone selling similar rims to suit a skyline i would be interested.