Tommy Kaira RL

From memory the airbag stays put. The airbag cover just lifts off with the dash. Ive got a dash at my brother's workshop I can look at tommorrow. I think there might be something holding it under the pillar trim. Where ever it wont budge there must he something close. If the dash is rocking at the bottom just look for a point where it dosent move. It also might be hooked in at the top like the rear seat.

I just happen to have the module for a series 2 that goes under the console.

I had an NA r33 that had the same box as the 32. When it went pop put in the turbo box. From memory I just had to change the rear rubber support to the old cross member. And the tailshaft was a direct swap with the new turbo one. The yokes are bigger on the turbo box .The boxes where the same length. So I would think it would be the same for R32. I also had to change the location of where the wires went for reverse light and speed sensor.

What do you mean by air bag engages? Has it gone bang. You can put a resistor underneath the steering wheel. I have one in my car it tricks the air bag ecu into thinking its still has an air bag. That will stop the light coming on.

^^^ After driving your car I'd pay $50 for a ride if I was going.

Just that it looks like this one and that it has the same number as the engine and that it actually does have a plate. What info is on the plate that your looking at?

P.S There could be HKS coilovers, Possibly TK body kit, some NISMO options. There would be about 400 made each order was different it depended on what the buyer wanted at the time. I also got cams and N1 turbos. Don't know if mine was all bolt on stuff or they rebuilt the engine. There are a few pics if you view garage.

I've got an R33 GTR Tommy Kaira. It is my best car yet. You cant get a lot of info on them. They upgrade the suspension, some interior parts, brakes, engine mods and there should also be a build plate in the engine bay somewhere if its original. There is usually 3 levels of builds. Mine is a RL spec. Do you know what spec yours is?

Have you tried unplugging them to see what dosen't work. Does the black box wire upto the white box it looks like it has the same colour wires out of each box. And the blue and yellow like like a switch wire. See if there is volts on 1 of them or try touching them together. Also

I can swap your GTR one for my GTST one. As long as yours isn't crappy. Mine is in excellent condition. I'm out Nth also

I would check your coil packs also. If your talking about the wire from the heat shield to the body then that is to stop static electricity that might come off from around the turbo from it spinning.

The black box looks like it has a button on the front from the last picture. Does it look like a card reader? In the first picture there is something else in the back of the foot well is that connected to any of it and what is it.

That's why I am most probably giving it a miss. Still have to get home from Victor. And I hate the amount of cars on the road back. See you at the next Dawn cruise.

Where all the factory earths are including the cas and the igniter and head. I go from driver strut tower and pick all those points up on the way to the passenger one. On automatics I go to the back of gearbox also. Pm me your number and I can give you more details / photos.

Yes there is and the oil temp is on the 3 gauges and the pressure is on the dash. I hate having gauges not work so I sat my boost controller in front of the pressure one

Normally you need a sandwich plate. But if you all ready have the filter re locater you could use the same location if the sensor isn't wired to anything. I removed my factory oil pressure switch and put the Greddy oil pressure sender into that. I didn't need 2 oil pressure readings and the Greddy would be more accurate anyway.

I make up kits to suit the car. If you give me some measurements I can make up some lengths for you. This is the kit on my GTR which goes to all the earth points and then to the strut towers. Very neat. Its the cables in red not blue. Most of it is hidden

Series 1 is the white plug, Pin 7 the purple with the white dot is the handbrake which gets cut and earthed Pin 8 is the speed sensor which just needs to be cut. I would only put a switch there if you want to keep the screen functions working The easiest solution would be to get it done programmatic-ally

1996 R33 GTR Mods Nismo front pipes and Apexi Exhaust with 100cell metal cat Nismo intake and HKS IC APEXI Suction and pod filters Aftermarket cams ?? 9.1mm lift HKS Cam gears N1 R33 Turbos 21PSI ??? bottom end Nismo FPR stock injectors stock AFM 301AWKW

yeah post them up. Would like to see the 35s

That would of been MOUTH I think he is a marshall.

Read my thread I didnt even remove the fuel lines or wiring. Just unplugged the Ecu and pulled loom back. Then it was exhaust, radiator hose, power steering, cross members and top of suspension. Like I said I had help

No i left the aircon in place. Just removed the compressor off the engine and held it up out of the way

I took the engine and gearbox out in about 2Hrs on a hoist with help. I ended up getting my turbo high flowed with a 2871 turbo from GCG. It feels like stock and the power dosen't hit as hard as the old turbo. It hits boost and just feels a bit stronger all the way to max boost (more linear) Which I havent gone over 15psi yet. Here is my story with pictures. http://www.skylinesa...5%20turbo%20out

This SLR 5000 was my first car back in 1992. From then I owned about five more V8 Holden's. I wish I had of kept the SLR going by the prices they fetch these days. I converted to skylines about 6 years ago after being taken for a ride in one. The following week I had my VT geniii up for sale. Have never thought about getting another V8 since