Tommy Kaira RL

Tell Sneddy to come over to the high voltage door and say hello. Hes got a nice stag. Id have the wheels.

spotted this in town and it wasnt even the guys car. The owner came out minutes later sceaming

Spotted some moron on top of the Stagea last week out front of Coromandel Place Substation in the city. He was some maintenance guy wanted to work on the air con so he put a ladder on top of this car. Minutes later a big dood with tatts came out yelling. Any one from here?

It only does it on start up. It dosent even last a second. It sounds like the diaphram in the actuator filling up with air. Its coming from that area.

Finally got it back together last night. The suction pipe would not bolt on the front of turbo in the car. I thought I was going to have to take the turbo off to get to the 6 botls that hold the snail. I could only undo the botoom surrounding 4 bolts. This gave the turbo enough clearance to turn it with a crow bar. Its been one thing after another. Anyway very happy with overal outcome. The power is slightly increased and its a lot smoother, quieter. It is a tiny bit lagier than stock. Only thing Ive noticed now when I start the car it makes a small fart sound. I think its the actuator?

$220 Nismo floor mats in Black to suit R33. Exellent condition hardly used. PM or 0427999093 located near Parafield Airport. And they were out of a GTR if that matters

mine is BB by the way

I just got my GCG back on the car the turbo was $1850. GCG should be cheaper because mine was put back together in Adelaide. It is a 28/71. The difference I have noticed is that it is a tiny bit lagier. Due to the steel turbine I guess. But when you put your foot down it kicks down a gear then hits boost and it feels smoother and pulls nice and hard. I still havent thrashed it yet. It is alot quieter than stock. My boost has gone down a bit I need to wind it back up.

Ive got series 3 steering wheel. All you need is the rest of the car. Guaranteed the steering wheel is stock and not modified.

But it does have an awesome video audio set up. You could watch funniest home videos (weddings) on the day.

Got my GCG high flow today after a long wait and got back to work pulling the top of the car off the engine and gearbox again. So after installing turbo and all the oil and water lines then did it all up. Have a new dump pipe on aswell. My question is should I turn engine over without starting it a few times to get oil pressure to turbo? Or just crank it. Would there be enough oil on bearings allready for first start up. Going to finish job tommorrow and take it for a big spin. Just got all the electrics and hoses to connect P.S Andy I got the banjo in first time on the block. Just bent the lines slightly until it was square. I had allready bolted turbo on before I called.

Once I get my GCG 28/71 turbo back then ATS in Adelaide can machine the casing to suit. At first they sent the wrong core 30/71 which would of needed modifing to fit. Ask jetwreck and danwatts about that. Then a week later there staff are sick. And now Toll are on strike. I just wont to bolt it in its been 3 weeks without the m35. Im sure Ill still be happy once all the wait is over.

Bump $200 these are in exellent condition

Looks like you had fun. If only the M35 had a turbo in it and my car wasn't in peices I would of loved the night drive

Your best option is to get the pop up mechanism that the tv bolts to from a wreck and put and aftermarket screen in there. Then the back of the screen will bolt up into the back of your dash once you take the glovebox out. Or another way to get picture into the factory screen is to use the factory tv tuner because it does all the converting from RCA for you through an AUX input.

I think it wil be easier to by a different stagea than swap it. Like people have said you will need the dvd rom, screen and tv tuner in boot for aux input and wiring. Im not sure if the sensors are all ready wired for the trip computer but they go in the back of dvd rom. I know a guy in Adelaide that bought another V35 with a screen and sold his V35 without.

Ive got a projector on my roof at home i can take down

I got through the last 2 summmers here in Adelaide but this one I have replaced the radiator (the top tank split) and the car is waiting on a new turbo but apart from that it is a great car. It can be a bit sluggish in the heat I just dont boost it that hard. Never had to regas aircon and it is still super cold And car never ran hot except for the radiator problem I think a bigger intercooler is a must for next summer

I guess you mean the small hole in the side of the banjo bolt to open up. Would you have a size to open it upto. I would think going to big would cause to much oil. Does that mean also that the banjo bolt on the turbo needs to be opened? And yes its going to be GCG BB

It was aftermarket. It only just fitted in the low mount position. And was allready bush bearing. I had to put the car back down on the engine and gearbox today and take off hoist. My brother needs his hoist back. Then I get to do it all again next week. Ive finally getting mt turbo fixed. Bill at ATS in Adelaide is getting me a GCG changeover like [[danny]] has on his M35. Bill also did danwatts turbo which needed a few mods to fit. My changeover is direct bolton. Also got Scotty making me a dump while im at it Thanks.

I bought a modified R33 GTR from Sydney and it took me 3 times to get it cleared. I dont know why they vcant do there job properly the first time. They let the pod filters pass because they were seure and they couldnt find the bost controller. Take it back to stock as far as you can get it and then go through regency and get it right the first time. My lesson learnt. Dont think that she'll be right they wont see that because they might

I just rang MTQ and told them I had a Garrett TB3401. They gave me a kit with bush bearings, piston seals, gaskets and o rings. Everything basically except the turbines. As long as you dont have a nut with grinds on it on intake turbine because its balanced with the turbune and shaft. You can reasemmble them if they have a standard nut because everything is balanced seperately. Followed some instructions and it never had a problem again.

To get to this stage took my brother and I in his workshop on a hoist about 2hrs to get the turbo off. Remove plastic trim around battery and take battery out. Remove engine cover. Undo the main batery cables to engine and pull off the body right back to engine. Take off the plastic trim under window and you will see a loom. Remove passenger kick panel and unclip the looms that go through the big rubber bung and pull up. Remove the intake hoses on top of turbo and AFM and air cleaner. Take off fan and shroud. Also undo the ABS sensors and unclip to wheel arch. Remove hoses that are connected from body to engine. And manifold just before the throttle body. Leave the fuel lines. And pull power steering resovior over to side. Now lift car up. Undo the 4 bolts on tailshaft on back of gearbox. Also disconnect the oil line and bung and cable tie up. Take off the shifter pivot while your there. Remove lower boost hose to get access to AC Un bolt AC pump from motor and swing over to where air cleaner was. Remove exhaust from dump to the muffler. Undo brake lines at the c clip and stop from dripping. Now its ready to lower onto stands and take the gearbox crossmember bolts out. Take the strut top nuts off and top ball joint. Then I think there was 2 or 3 bolts holding the subframe in. Undo them. One last check to see nothing would get in the way. Raised the car while watching for any jamming and letting the ecu loom go down the back as in the photo. After the car is raised up from the engine the heat sheild can be removed. All oil lines and water have to be removed then its just the 4 main bolts on the manifold and off came the turbo. Photo of the drivers side Photo of passenger side Photo of front Now I thought id look inside turbo I marked the casing and remover the intake housing. It looks like it just touched the surface. The bearings sounds shot its very scratchy. Im thinking its the thrust washer. I cant look at it any further today as i need more tools. Im hoping I can get a garrett kit and do it myself. I have before done a kit on a turbo on my last 33. But I would hate to have the turbo out again. What do people reckon would this be an easy fix for a handy man that just passed all of the above and try and fix it myself or get it rebuilt. From the pictures in the photo off the fins do people think i will get away with them. How do you tell if the exhaust wheel is steel or ceramic it has a metal sound to it when you lightly tap it. It was going to be 42deg today in SA so it was get it done quick.

Now $200ono

There isnt alot there that you can play with except the sensors. the version is what is down loaded on your dvd rom. Its either XAA11001 or XAA110011 depending on what english conversion you had done. The Navigation is for the map disk And display diagnosis can tell you if something is unpluged. Lastly I wouldnt press the same 2 butons that you pressed to get into that menu. It brings up a menu bar second from the bottom that is missing and you dont want to go into that one. So what im saying is dont play to much.