Nismo 3.2ish

When you consider that some of the motors these faulty turbos could be bolted on cost a lot of money, they would have strict quality control Now the faults have been pointed out, his could come back to bite BW on the arse!

Yeah ? ,Paul already laughed at me for believing Fatz’s Pisstake comment ?? i am old but stil gullible ?‍♂️?

No , you have a bloke saying he has 955hp car in the UK on 98 Fatz said he has the same , I asked, on what fuel ? I think 955hp on 98 with the UK setup is BS?‍♂️ But I am asking FATZ , a bloke with much more knowledge than I have a question The only way to learn anything is ask questions, I work on the assumption that “ there are no stupid questions, just stupid answers”

What fuel do you run at 955hp

Would think if it’s going hard at 3500rpm ,530 / 550kw would be close i wanted the 8474 before I did the final mods ? last mods ?but couldn’t get one or even be told when they were going to be available Can’t stop thinking about getting the 8474 and 1.45ar just to see how much difference it makes at both ends on my setup trouble is , getting both knees replaced in March and not sure how it will be driving a stick for a while but it would be a perfect time to get the work done while I recover from the operation ? Fn cars, they get into your blood at all ages?

I would have to snooze before I went for a drive,too much adrenaline to sleep after the drive ? been enjoying your thread Shoota , looking great ?

Hi, I have the ATS triple, as you say, drives great just wondering , when I back out cold it grabs a little and feels like the car has the handbrake half on, go into first and feels the same for a moment. After that perfect, usually drive 100klm ish every Sunday no problems with all sorts of driving ?‍♂️ I am not worried about it, been like this for a long time, just wondering if anyone one else has had this experience you mentioned the OS Giken , when I bought my 34gtr it had the OS Giken quad in it , had to drive it for the first time in peak hour traffic on Pendant Hills Rd , that was an experience ?

looking forward to see the results ?

Yeah Ben , a lot of blokes put shit on me for chasing response in this sort of high revving car , I had no option as I really liked the car , not the setup. Had my early morning heart starter 110 klm drive and my first drive at 77 LOL., that adrenaline is good shit , set for the day now

Forgot to finish off After being in the shop for so long the tyres were all different pressures, pumped them up and it went straight and hard ,silly me , Had the car in just to touch up the tune, picked up a bit more under 4250 rpm Finally able to say this "THE END"!

Tell me about it ??‍♂️ When you get what you want it’s worth it , but now I need some counseling , I have boredom withdrawal , need Methadone ?

Me too ?

Unfortunately you won’t get much for $30k in 2019 and for $10k ?‍♂️ The prices for a reasonable R34GTR have doubled I think from 10 years ago

How much are you going to spend , you will need deep pockets atm the way the prices are going

Getting close to this thread being knocked on the head I would think , CHILL boys , lol

Whats sneaky about saying, wrong info , I can admit it better than some

I drove this peach a couple weeks ago while up holidaying in Pete's home town. Pete has mentioned that the old and new graphs don't show much difference. Throw the sheet in the bin is all I can say. It was stonking before this round but its halarious now. Doing the 120 km belt through "The Lakes Way" which is Pete's little playground was interesting. There is not a corner in the whole joint that you need 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear. There was a sign posted corner that was 35 kph that I did in 4th gear. just as I straightened the wheel it was turning tyres. You honestly couldn't fall off song in this thing if you tried. A choice of 3 gears in every corner. Use odd gears or even gears. Anything from 3000 RPM and its ON. Not just 'coming on"... full noise, MFD blinking red shit. Being in such a tall gear all the time you need to recalibrate. 3000 RPM in 4th and feed it on, you think you're ready to change gear, look down and you're at 5500 RPM. In 6th, it has 24 psi by 2700 RPM. It’s a joke. As a street GTR, it would be bloody hard to beat this thing. Can turn tyres in the first 4 gears without much effort at all. Tyres are not motorway spec junk either. 275 RS4's with a Quaife front diff and the transfer case mod done. If you're not happy with it Pete, time to sell it because it does its thing so bloody well! You could quite easily get away with a 9180 on it and still be sweet. I know we have both spoken about it a zillion times, it aint for you. It does need brakes though. The thing doesn't stop AT ALL! Perhaps a set of decent pads (Endless CC-RG's) would go a long way here. The torque steer might need to be addressed too. It's quite scary. Here is to the tadpole. The black tractor of the Mid North Coast! Quote Well , had the tyres refilled with Nos for free at Jax they averaged 30psi , so I cannot say what pressure was in what tyre . the car was in the shop for 4 months and it was a bit slack at checking the pressure when I got it back , so all pumped to 38psi, gave it a run and it goes straight , torque steer eliminated, takes a bit of the excitement out of it , LOL

Like Paul said, the torque steer is pretty bad , I am hoping it can be something simple that causes most of it, like uneven tyre pressure. The car was in the shop for 4 months and I hadn't touched them since I put the new tyres on some months before it went into the shop , how slack is that , LOL So tomorrow I will pump them up and see how it drives under some power and hope for the best. If that doesn't fix it or make it more manageable, an alignment is next and work from there Have all new bushes and the car drives straight until you bash it hard , otherwise it is OK under power. Anyone had this problem and fixed it ?

Don't know about you Bob, I have 10.5 Lt sump , it is a street car and I do not do long races where I would think this is a major problem waiting to empty the catch can and maybe running it back to the sump may be the best option for your car's motor internals , I don't know. Then totally change the oil after the race, but I doubt if you use E85 you would leave the contaminated oil in the car and race again and again , oil is cheaper than a rebuild, but I do not know? I do have flex tune but use E85 100% atm I can only go on my limited experience , I emptied the catch can and drove the car 330klm to Sydney to have some work done on it . Had the head ported, cams modified and the CR up from 8.1:1 to 9.8:1 , the car was tuned and I am sure there were lots of 7500 ish rpm runs on the Dyno before it was done, drove it home 330klms and loading it up as I went, did another 300klm through the hills , then a mate came up and gave it heaps for 120Klms and it used up about 1.2Lts plus some water in the mix. So I had 9.3 Lts of uncontaminated oil left in the sump and for me, I will take a loss of 1.2Lts of crap that is not going back into my sump , than having it returned. Maybe I am being too careful Bob , but I have spent a shatload on my motor and think I am doing the right thing , but ???

I personally do not see the sense of taking a chance that a contaminant from the catch can going back in my oil to save a couple of $s Before the build the sludge that came from the catch can was brown ish gunk , E85 has a water content I think and mixing with the oil could change the colour . This is what first made me think I had an oil leak as the oil on the garage floor looked like oil and when I emptied the catch can this time , it looked like oil but probably had a small amount of water mixed with it as I am sure some water came out first. Probable be some condensation in the mix as well , but ?

Not an answer to your problem and not sure if this will be of help/interest to anyone Since my last motor work the catch can is filling up faster after some runs than it did before and I thought I had an oil leak as there was oil under the front of the motor. The overflow used to go to the back through a tube and leak out if I didn't empty it, not ideal. I guess the tube is not there or has been disconnected somehow. About to have it checked out. Being on E85 I am not sure if I want the contents of the catch can going back into my sump ? Now I just make sure to empty the catch can and of course the problem stopped. Top the oil up when needed and all good Maybe some of you have this problem , my catch can is a pain to empty because the nut is pretty well flush with the catch can and when you undo the bolt it makes it hard to catch all the oil and it can be messy , so I just ordered a valve to make it easy as it sits out away from the catch can and I will be able to get a funnel under it, maybe I will be able to put a hose on it once I have a chance to see it.

Yeah mate , they did a good job finishing off the last of my list. Would have been a lot easier and cheaper if I knew what I was doing when I started it, lol not much on vids and most are boring from inside the car, there is nowhere to hide in a small town, you definitely do not attention ?

Here is Pauls impression below of how the car is running now after a fair test run , around 120 Klms Booked in for Thursday for the final tune Piggaz Rank: RB30ET Members 1,151 8,619 posts Gender:Male Location:Sydney Car(s):RB28 97' V Spec Series 3 Real Name:Paul Awards Report post Posted 22 minutes ago I drove this peach a couple weeks ago while up holidaying in Pete's home town. Pete has mentioned that the old and new graphs don't show much difference. Throw the sheet in the bin is all I can say. It was stonking before this round but its halarious now. Doing the 120 km belt through "The Lakes Way" which is Pete's little playground was interesting. There is not a corner in the whole joint that you need 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear. There was a sign posted corner that was 35 kph that I did in 4th gear. just as I straightened the wheel it was turning tyres. You honestly couldn't fall off song in this thing if you tried. A choice of 3 gears in every corner. Use odd gears or even gears. Anything from 3000 RPM and its ON. Not just 'coming on"... full noise, MFD blinking red shit. Being in such a tall gear all the time you need to recalibrate. 3000 RPM in 4th and feed it on, you think you're ready to change gear, look down and you're at 5500 RPM. In 6th, it has 24 psi by 2700 RPM. It’s a joke. As a street GTR, it would be bloody hard to beat this thing. Can turn tyres in the first 4 gears without much effort at all. Tyres are not motorway spec junk either. 275 RS4's with a Quaife front diff and the transfer case mod done. If you're not happy with it Pete, time to sell it because it does its thing so bloody well! You could quite easily get away with a 9180 on it and still be sweet. I know we have both spoken about it a zillion times, it aint for you. It does need brakes though. The thing doesn't stop AT ALL! Perhaps a set of decent pads (Endless CC-RG's) would go a long way here. The torque steer might need to be addressed too. It's quite scary. Here is to the tadpole. The black tractor of the Mid North Coast! Quote

The car drives as I always wanted it too , just took a while to get it there. No 9180 for me , 460 AWKW and lots of torque is more than plenty for a streetcar , well for me, not you, hahaha. I thought you headed to Sydney when you went for the drive and I was about to call the cops and report it stolen.. lol I will do the brakes soon. The car was really scary from the moment I bought it , tried to kill me a few times heading for the bush. But better tyres and all new bushes helped a lot , it's a lot better now than it was. Not sure what to do about the torque steer , had it for a while now and I think the crappy road doesn't help, getting used of it . Might speak to the boys when I go for the tune next week. Maybe do an alignment when I am in Sydney Glad you had some fun in it :)