Nismo 3.2ish

I am a bit pissed and know a lot of you blokes are pretty good t this stuff , me hopeless The final tune will be in a week and I would like to see if anyone can guess the results The run in tune at 15psi was 314awkw on 98 pumps, the car has been built for response, at the final tune the cams will be dialed in for response. Builder Is CRD Parts RB26 Head RB30 Block Nitto 3.2 Stroker kit UE 260 10.8 custom cams, springs and retainers Supertech 1mm OS Valves PT6262 CEA turbo ID1300 injectors Splitfire pack Haltech R34GTR ECU and flex fuel sensor Walbro 460LPH pump ( not sure if this will do the job) Custom 3.5" exhaust Thats the best I can give you Have a guess at 20psi on 98 and E85 25psi on 98 and E85 My Guess , well I would like 400awkw and 435awkw 425awkw and 465awkw Please do not put shit on me, just guess or go elsewhere

Hi Brendan , I have a 460 on my car and a Haltech ECU and flex fuel Sensor and I am under the impression that once tuned for E85 and 98 pump , I can run any mixture from 0-100% of 98 or E85. Maybe I have misunderstood how this will work, no mention of cleaning out the tank or fuel contamination. I was told that you could have any amount of 89 pump and fill it up with the E85 or visa versa ?

Yeah , I had the same experience with the "go search" bit and some are long and drawn out , when it would have been easier just to give you their opinion in half the words. The trouble searching is that when you finally find the topic you are interested in it can be 5 - 10 years old and you have to try and get it started again and as there are new products coming into the market place all the time. The good news is there are a lot of blokes on this forum that will give you great advice and help whenever they can and for a bloke like me that knew/knows nothing about modifying cars it saved me a lot of time and money. I found if you google your topic it can lead you to some threads on SAU and go from there. I just had a coppermix twin C Spec installed in my R34GTR and did have a Nismo slave Cylinder installed with it, it is great to use. Peddle takes up close to the top, this was good for me as I am a short arse and could go back a click or two and make my driving position better for me, haha

haha , if I was any lighter I would float away Chill

My pump is just a normal setup and replaced a Bosch 044 Going in next week for the final tune and will post results, busting to see if I get the car I tried to build

Thanks, all going into the hat haha, I have a kill switch on the ignition and as I slump over it turns the car off and applies the brakes

As an Admin bloke ,can you talk like this ? See that is a stupid question, because you did talk like that I should have said, As an Admin bloke , SHOULD you talk like this

I was saying, I ask some dumb arse questions Have no idea if your answers are stupid as I know shit all about this. I always get good feedback from you.Like your answer to castor, easy to understand and helped me get my head around it. I said thanks in my post! So you understand, if I was going to call you stupid, I would just say, you are stupid or don't be stupid or you stupid motherf**ker, you know , straight to the point! I have been on the site for a while now and without blokes like you I would know SFA, I learn from your experiences and it has saved me a lot of time and $s.

Thanks, as I know SFA about this subject + many others and I could not find anything with castor figure specs for the rear wheels, probably because from what you have said there is nothing to find. But my old mate always said , there are no stupid questions, just stupid answers

Mate you have been very helpful in my effort to build my car and I may be dense and alignment is something I am trying to understand, but what does this mean ? "Your caster number at the rear is not a useful value. Just throw it away - it's not something that is measured/talked about at the rear in the same way that it is at the front." What is the answer, what value do you suggest for the rear end or what is suggested by the experts ?

Oh ok, + 8 Degrees of castor seemed a lot from what I have found out so far ,it seemed 5-6 Ds was closer, but only just started looking 2 days ago. Spoke to the mob that did my alignment and their computer deletes work sheets after 3 months so I could not find out what the setting were. I think from what has been said so far is close to my idea of what to ask for, well except , is there any Castor preference on the rear wheels, if any ? Sorry but when you know SFA about something it takes a little while to get your melon around it

I missed what he meant , I took it he had +8 degrees of castor on the front , Zero toe on the front and 1mm on the rear. Is 8 degrees a lot of castor ? From some of the info I have read, the right castor makes it track much better, less tramlining maybe? I am going to try and get my last alignment specs, I tossed it because I could not understand it, maybe now I can ?

what did you end up having things set at ?

will do, thanks

Understand, was not quite sure about the camber and those numbers sound good and I will ask for those,I was going to ask for a little bit, well -0.5 or -1. Could not find too much about the rear Castor settings and tossed in the front number, well it seems 5 to 7 for the front is a safe setting, so + 6 , is there a number to consider for the rear or zero. As the first one will be free I feel I can play a little, sort of trial and error but with some homework tossed in to get something that could work

As my next alignment is free I am thinking of trying Front Toe = zero zero Camber = Zero Zero, or very little Castor = + 6 deg Back Toe = zero zero camber= zero zero, or very little castor =+ 6 Deg Drive it and see how it feels and then I have something to work off so I can tell them how it is driving,then go and have it done by a quality shop , :unsure:

Thanks I will check out the castor situation after or when I am getting the new tyres on. Bit confused with the Toe, you say run some toe and then tell me you do what I was thinking of doing and you run zero in the front ?

If you were trying to minimize tramlining for a street car how would you set the alignment I think I will have the steering checked in case there are some worn parts. Maybe when overtaking and being on a different road angle the alignment settings would be off, because the road surface is slopping the other way and this makes the tramlining feel more violent , if that makes any sense ?? ( I say this because I read that some alignments take the road slope into account ) Maybe it is the situation that makes it feel more violent ,especially when it pulls you towards the other car. Stuffed if I know, the more I read the more confused I am LOL

You are talking about AWD ? I am only learning about this and what you are saying is what I am starting to think is something to try from what I have read so far, or at least ask them about when I change my tyres and get an alignment . I was going to ask if these guesstimations could help with the tramlining, front 0-0 toe , rear, very little ? very small amount of negative Camber -0.5 to -1 Castor I am not sure of this but maybe 5-6 Ds Maybe what I am saying is crap but I have to start somewhere and still have a month or so before I have to do it

Thought it might have been there, a lot of the boys use it, do a bit of drifting on it. I would like to try that on one of those days Are there set dates

Do they do that Climb often at Bulahdelah ? Was it on the Lakesway ?

Like most things, I guess there is a combination that helps lessen the severity of the tramlining,at the wrong time it could be more than annoying I wonder if having a Quaife front diff and modifying the tranny added to this problem as it seems a little worse now ? Any good alignment shops in the MId North Coast ? Any opinions of Bob Jane Newcastle. They were friendly and efficient but as an alignment specialist, I do not know. As for good and cheap, I remember a lady back in the day that was worth a shot or 2

Hope so, then maybe the 265s will be a little better, Yokohama recommend the 265 AD08Rs for the Advan 10" rims

Thanks fellas Started reading up on this and it seems a topic that has many different answers, maybe trial and error ? The wide tyres seem to be a major factor to this problem and as I am going from the 255 to 265 it is going to increase this crappy problem. These country roads are fun but they want to pull you all over the place. Guess it is just keep your mind on the job Had 255s on my 350GT RWD and nothing like it is with the R34GTR AWD I will make some notes and ask them to do what they can to help when I change my tyres and hope for the best. But I will keep the work sheet and once I see how the cars reacting I will post it and love to minimize the tramlining Do awd cars magnify this tramlining ?

OK I will try this. Is there a combination of Caster, Camber and Toe for a R34GTR that works the best for a street car car. Any help would be appreciated as I will be changing my tyres soon and would like to get an alignment that suites my car.