Nismo 3.2ish

Just had a look at toe , if anything I have negative toe the way it will go where the road wants to take the car and you have to be ready for it all the time, takes a bit of the pleasure out of the drive on some roads

Skittish sounds about right for my R34GTR, on a straight line, 60 to 100Klms , on crappy roads mine can get very skittish, follows everything and can be a bit scary when you over take and it happens. Starting to think I was getting skittish, First 4WD I have had and ever felt anything this bad. The alignment was very bad, the steering wheel was about 10 degrees off centre and was much better after the alignment, BUT ? Around twisty road it is sensational and never a problem ? Do not know about toe and will look it up so I can understand what could be going on. The tyres on at the moment are 255 on 10" Advan rims and looked stretched but the recommended size is 265 , so not a lot of difference ? Having some new 265 tyres on soon and will get another alignment and see how it goes and post the results so I can get some feed back/ help.

Just about done, a few touch ups, final tune and clean

Really, much the same Did another run long without the AC , nothing under the car, this shit is going up in steam somewhere, but not out the exhaust that I could see ?? My nice quiet custom exhaust is a little louder since the build, I had this made to be quiet and not restrict the flow. One good thing, I went to my mechanics exhaust bloke, he went over it, we revved it up ect , said it did not get much louder from idle to 4500rpm (could not go higher,limiter set around that) and I would have to be doing something stupid to bring attention to the sound and they would have to be sticking it to me if they took action. Trouble was he had given his mate his DB equipment for a few days and was doing this from his experience by ear? I used a DB phone app at idle, it was 85 ish, BUT I doubt if these apps are 100%, well 85%

I did turn the aircon off once before to test it, but I had it on for a long time before that , so I will turn it off from the start and try again, love to find the leak. Might leave it off for a couple of days just to be sure.

Just did 126 Klms, parked for 10 minutes and could not see anything leaking. Drove into the garage and apart from the aircon water there was one dribble about 2 foot in front of the aircon water, I think it could have been some of the aircon water that dropped after I drove off. I let the car run for a while longer, turned it off again for a while and then moved the car out of the garage but other than the aircon water there was nothing, I thought I found it for a minute When it cools down later I will see how much water it takes. Got all of the Klms done for the tune, just a drive to Sydney away in 2 weeks and

Yeah Bob , as they do not seem worried they will do it when I take it down in a couple of weeks, have the Klms up now for the final tune and I would rather that they do it and no one else can be blamed if shit happens. I am keeping a very close eye on the oil and water while driving and after each drive and all good , well except for loosing water , LOL

I will give it a good going over today after my drive today, thanks My major problem is my lack of knowledge about these cars, well car internals in general and my body being stuffed makes it difficult to get in and around them to search for things like this When I was young you could get inside the engine bay and there were only mechanical problems, no computers etc, now you are lucky to get your arm in there, lol But I will see what I can see

the aircon water does not evaporate, but it only hits the pipe low down near the bend on the way down and warms up before hitting the ground

Yeah water always comes out of the AC with the cold air on. How much is enough before it comes out, has to be a couple of Lts missing by now The only good thing about this, Jim is not worried. So I will worry for the both of us

You would think if it was loosing water under pressure it would still leave a puddle after the motor is turned off, but it may be similar to your old mans car. After a drive tomorrow I will have a look before I turn it off. I hope it is something simple and no need for anything drastic , but as there is no oil in the water and no water in the oil it should be OK

The only water I can find is ,I think from the aircaon and it is coming down where it always has before the build. It drips down at the back of the front wheel , in where the connection is to the exhaust where the pipe comes down from the motor when you stop the car, does not smell like radiator water and if it was leaking like that all the time the radiator would be empty after 100 or 200klm. I think I can smell it coming through the aircon. There are no wet areas inside the car. Only have a couple of weeks to go and they can find it, it is a wonder they did not see it while they were using it, maybe they did and that was why they told me to keep an eye on it to see what happened ??

They also say it is better for your motor

The $ rules, but if it is staying stock , why not a stock or re build, they seem pretty tough or any quality single plate. If you are going to wind it up later , I find the Nismo Coppermix Twin C Spec great , take a lot of KWs and so easy to use, spend a bit more now and save some $s later

A bit late ,but , Thanks, Finally got the car back , only took 5 months and get the final tune in a few weeks. Have to go to Bob Jane in Newie to have my tyres fitted and might drop into Metford and see how the flex fuel tune works and feel the difference between 98 & E85

It drives pretty good now, so different down low, starting to feel like the type of a car I enjoy driving and I reckon with the cams dialed in and a bit of boost it will be great. I think the custom cams 260 10.8 with a sharp ramp rate will give it a bit more punch than the Poncams B. 260 9.15 Even now you can notice the work I had done on the drive train when you drive it around some twisty stuff, feels more balanced and planted, if you know what I mean ?

Thanks, I am worried with the water lose I am having but that seems to be, sort of OK and I do not want anything else happening that can be stopped with a little effort and I appreciate any support I can get and it is free See some blokes come on SAU and ask a question and do not want to listen to the answers. If you have a heap of blokes saying "don't do it " there must be a reason.. I must admit, I listen to like minded blokes that have similar results that I want , BUT there seems more than one way to get there. I have not seen another car with the same bolt on mods, some are there because I already just bought them and thought I might as well leave them on and see how it goes. I might get lucky as I put these mods on the car chasing some response from a very laggy car, all good so far I emailed the builder this morning and asked if the wiring to the pump had been done before and if not, do it before the tune.

Nothing unusual, bit of aircon dribble . 100ml over 60 klms is reasonably slow considering it has pressure I think, but?? Wish it had green coolant, much easier to spot

The shop may have done this already, they do this type of work all the time and if the wiring is a problem for the build you would think it would be a "MUST DO" mod for the pump. I am sending them an email right now just to make sure it was not missed when the pumps were changed. Just gotta luv SAU, somewhere for people like me to get help,thanks guys

Not sure if it is loosing less water, the time it seemed full after 50 klms I had opened it after about 5 minutes of driving it and it seemed OK, but the next morning it was down about 100ml, so it seems pretty constant There was good pressure in the radiator when it was hot. Jim did not seem too worried about it and said to keep an eye on it. So now I have a couple of Lts in the car just in case and to keep it topped up. I do it now after it gets cold to get a true reading. I think any air pockets would be long gone by now, but I think as long as the lose of water is constant over a given distance driven, seems to say it is not getting any worse "I hope" Only have a couple of weeks before the final tune, this will give them a chance to test and find out where the water is going and fix it

Is it better to run the heavier wire from the Walbro straight to the battery ??

Shit, I will make sure the wiring is OK before the tune, I think they could do that quickly, if I have to wait one more day I guess I will have to but I will stay in Sydney. If I need the other work done later, then tune it again

I know you are right but I cannot leave the car again for a while, want the injectors done, tuned and drive it for a while. It will not be flogged so should be OK.It will give me a chance to find someone local that can do some work should I need it. There is a shop in Port Macquarie that should be able to do this work. Maybe even my mechanic here can do it as he has been racing and modifying his own cars for years, I am going to drop in there tomorrow and speak to him about this as I have never asked him before. Have the Haltech ECU Platinum Pro R34GTR and Flex Fuel Sensor on the car already and it will be getting tuned in with E85 , so I can use any % of 98 and E85.

I had better make sure this is wired up properly to handle the higher current. I do not have E85 in my area, thought I would get it done to handle it should it become available or if I am in Newcastle or anywhere they sell it so I can try it and get a feel for it, supposed to be better all round for the motor as well. As I do not want to leave the car in Sydney again after waiting for 5 months to get it back, so I will not do anything extra at this time BUT there are a few blokes closer to home that can do the other work when I decide if I want to. I could do that work after the tune, would it have to be tuned again. I would think it would still be OK on the original tune ??

Peter, I will keep that in mind