Nismo 3.2ish

haha, thats going to eat up the hours,days and weeks

Sure, it is something "they" know,BUT "I" don't? These questions have nothing to do with my build, I would just like to get an idea from some of you blokes that have been doing this for a long time and have done it first hand or been able to see it as it was being done I look at these motors with all of the electronics and everything else and it makes my head hurt and I understand just how good these blokes are. I know from making things if you are in a workshop with all right men for different jobs, plus all of the professional tools and machinery it is SO much easier than stuffing around trying to do the same thing at home by yourself, no matter how good you are. If a workshop has all of the parts needed to do a complete stroker build,pull the motor out, parts out to be machined and back in, how long would that take. In my case,there is the driveline , clutch, mods to trannie and a quaife front diff to be fitted. I would imagine doing all of this at the same time would save time while the motor is out? I figured that if the total build could not be done within a month , 240 odd hours in a specialized workshop, there is something wrong . I know they work on other cars during the same period, but what if they did not and had an open go at it. A week or 2 if they had priority on getting outside work done?

haha, typo, DICKY seat is what we called them

Masters of your own doing I remember back in 1958 I had a 34 Ford coupe with a dinky seat in the boot, V8 and flat out between 70/80 miles an hour and it took a while to get there But you could not stop it at anything above 50mph without chucking an anchor out on a rope or put your feet on the tyres and being a short arse I could not reach them ( Kane this was the joke ) Your brakes should be the best thing on your car, but in your car , a willing Sheila is always better because after showing off, you do a lot of parking and your brakes can cool off, even though your pants are on fire Yeh, pissed again

I have to say they have done everything they said on 2 other occasions and probably will do it again, they are pretty nice blokes there, it is just so frustrating waiting and nothing seems to be getting done

I was going to give them more $s but I could not get an answer to my emails and thought stuff you! There is a shit load with the drive line, Transfer case mods, Quaife front diff and the Clutch to be done. He said it is motor work time next week, whatever that meant, I thought that was their main work, haha Stuff it, my kids are out so I think I will head to the restaurant and sit on my ever increasing fat and let the look after me

I am just trying to get an idea of what has to be done and how long will it take to have the block modified for a R34GTR, the car has been in the shop for 3 weeks and has not been touched. It was booked in 4 months ago, all of the parts were at the shop 3 months ago and paid for, so I am just a bit disappointed that I took the car in when I could have been driving it, but I should not be too surprised after reading many build threads, I am just not used of dealing with performance shops and they seem to work on lots of cars at the same time. It is like being a kid again and waiting for Xmas

What has to be done to the RB30 block to fit the Nitto 3.2 stroker with a 2.6 head How long would the work take using a professional

Thanks for all of your input, it is great to get help from people that have used different brakes.Manufactures tell you what they think will sell their products, you blokes talk from personal experience . Please understand I am just checking out alternatives for after I have my build and brakes I can use if I decide to do more with the car.I just like to know what my options are. Spending a lot of $$$$$s on making a car go quick is one thing ,BUT it needs to stop, I would rather have over kill on my brakes than be killed because they are shit, just because I did not spend a few more $s!

You are right, my local mechanic has been a track bloke all of his life and had just put some Ultima's on the front and says that these are very good for a DD and you could do a couple of short runs but more than that I would need to get something better. Not really sure how good they are as these Ultima's were just put on before I took the car to Sydney for the build, they had not really bedded in as some protective coating was still on them. I just like to have everything ready so I know what I want before I really need them.

I have been able to contact Tunerwarehouse and ADL brakes and have asked them for a price on front and Alcon brake Kits. Could not get Motorsports web page contact to work ?I might try on my PC later on as this laptop can be a pain on some sites, might be my security sticking its nose in as usual?? I will let you know how I go Thanks

thanks, I will have a look at them

why is the R33GTS-T a shit box ?

Had no luck finding information or price on the Alcon brake kit for the R34GTR ?

what is a good size front and back for an R34GTR. No good going quick if you cannot stop

Hi Michael, Brakes seem to be more personal than tyres,haha Sorry, but what do you mean, shit on your standard and good on your AP's. I would imagine the brake fluids could also have an effect on the brakes performance.It seems DOT4 grade is the go. I will be getting braided lines fitted. Pete

in the old days the drum brakes in the cars were shit and we used to joke that you were better off using your shoes on the tyres instead of using the brake shoes, it is a shit getting old because some young blokes do not know what we are talking about, LOL

Thank Kane, when you say a tad bad when cold, I have short legs and cannot reach the tyre to stop it

Anyone heard of the Ultima brand

Oils ain't oils and now "Brakes ain't Brakes" Well tried to read as much as I could and I am sure there is excellent info in amongst all of those brands and numbers, started writing them down but now my head hurts Could a few of you blokes give me your best street/track combos that also work cold with no or minimal noise and I will see if I can put it together and go from there. I believe Endless are OK.. Any help appreciated Pete Mainly Street DD

sly

haha, spot on and now I will get some brakes sorted. Just put some Extreme on the front as mine were totally stuffed and the bloke that did them has done track for a long time and he reconds that these are great for a DD and OK for a couple of quick/short track runs but they will not cop a lot of HARD work. He uses them on his DD. Couple of blokes on SAU mentioned that Endless are very good and pretty good for a DD , work OK cold, so when I am ready I will have a closer look at them.

Living here can be a pain when you need to do crap on your car:(

Bob Jane in Newcastle, I got my Advan rims from them and their service is pretty good. Do you know of a better mob?

After the Quaife diff and the trannie mods it will be close to a 4x4, haha Is the 1m = 1 metre, shit I have to swim through those I have only had a few aquaplanes since I have had cars and those times were when I left the tyres that were on the car when I bought it, just lazy and trying to save a $ and then I would then find the best wet tyres I could find, back then the Pirelli's were pretty good. I have Pirelli PZero on the car now and I have had no real problem, well except for a bit of rain after a long dry spell with oil coming up to the surface and there is nothing you can do except wait until you feel the road and drive out of it, funny feeling As the car will be very responsive I want the best rubber I can get, anything to help is good and safety first before you need first aid