sturb25

1 problem sorted, got my car back from natrad this afternoon. They said the radiator was 80% blocked and they said the young fella spent hours on cleaning it out. They where very suprised that i didnt cook it and he also said that if it was up to him to clean it he wouldnt of, he would of just said new radiator. They also said they replaced the top plastic tank because when they pull it apart it was very brittle and broke. Im happy now ive got one issue sorted. Yay Now for the next, boost!!. Take it back to where the problem arose, the mechanic. And im not paying a cent. They made it that way so they can fix it. Ill get there soon enough and ill have my car back the way it was Keep u posted

Thanks I dont have a multimeter on hand at the moment im in the process of moving house and im not sure where it is. my turbo timer is a blitz and it has an accurate voltage meter that gives you a reading when the car starts and when its going. Is reading 14.3- 14.4. if that help Thanks Stu

Thanks for your help everyone Im sorting out the problems one thing at a time starting with the main one, temperature. Ive booked it in to nadrad to get the radiator pulled apart, tanks cleaned, engine flushed, pressure tested and new radiator cap. As for the boost issue. Ive made a little discovery. When the car is first started and warmed up it reaches 7psi for say 4 or 5 times i give it a squirt then drops down to 4-5 psi if that helps Starting problem. I think its more than starter motor cause today it turned over fine but it wouldnt start for around 30 secs. But when it feels as though something is draining the power from the battery u can also tell by the rear boot electronic latch cause it is really slow. Its realy strange. Should i book it in to a auto elect or a mechanic? Thanks

As far as im concerned if i go to a mechanic and my car is going worse than when i took it in and none of the problems are sorted out and i get charged 900 bucks, i got ripped off. They said they would look at all the problems and fix them. If they arent capable of doing so they should of let me know before i took it in and not charged me 900. I couldnt be a nicer person, polite and didnt argue when they gave me the bill. Its bullshit.

Thanks i will look into it further and do a few tests and replace a few hoses Ive got to get it sorted as i cant be without a car Had battery tested and it tests all good, its only new

Yes it is connected and no i havent tested it. Im think ill try and replace all hoses first casue it was producing boost to 7psi fine before i took it in so im thinking that there might be a crack in the boost solinoid line that passes directly over the coil pack cover Starting issue happens all the time. Im going to take it to a radiator place and have them take the tanks off and have it cleaned properly and maybe do a pressure test and leek down test to rule out blown head gasket, i very much doubt it will have a blown head gasket but theres no harm in testing. And ill also put a new radiator cap on to. It could also be to do with the 2 bleed valves not being bleed properly. Who knows, ill sort it out. Ive got to

Im not going to name any names as yet cause im trying to get it all sorted I had a few issues with my car that i needed to get sorted asap so i got refered to a dyno mechanic shop by a couple of people on hear and im not realy happy with what they have done and havent done to my car anyway ill get straight to the point 1st issue: Cars getting a little warm under load windy hill climbing, bit worried as ive had the car for 3 years and the temp gauge has moved at all 2nd issue: Car having trouble starting, think it may be starter motor solinoid or voltage regulator I took my car in to have these problems looked at and fixed as i need my car for work i also got it serviced and a power run on the dyno just to see what it was making, kw wise and that led me to yet another problem Anyway ill start with the cooling issue, when i took it in i asked them to flush radiator, instal new thermostat and new coolant and check water pump cause if it is the pump its covered under my warranty. They put a new water pump in even after i specificly told them not to and then they tried to charge my for it . I said i wasnt paying for it but i think they added it onto the bill. Dickheads. And its still getting warm so they didnt fix that problem. Starting problem, its as though my car has a flat battery but as you turn the key for longer it picks up in revs and eventually starts but sometimes it turns over fine but it wont start straight away and when it does go to start uve got to have your foot ready to help it. Its got progressively worse over the past 3 months. battery is only new and checks out fine. Third problem that arose when they serviced and dynoed it. They put in new plugs, new oil, checked all fluid levels and did a safety check. When i went to pick it up they said that i produced 122kw which was a 14 kw gain from last time i got it dynoed. I was excited but they told me that i only had 5 psi boost which i thought was really strange cause before i took it in there it was reading 7-8 psi. I thought it may of been my gauge reading wrong so i took it for a drive. It wasnt the gauge as it now reads 5 psi and its going worse than when i took it in there but the power reading is higher. How do u work that out. I dont know what they have done but its going shit, its still overheating and its still having starting issues and they stung my 900 bucks. Im realy pissed of and i dont know what to do. i dont want to take it back there as i cant get any time off work to do so for the next couple of months.

My Windscreen is severly pitted and when the sun shines on it its very hard to see so im wondering if they are available in Australia, preferably in Melbourne. If anyone could steer me in the right direction and give me a rough price that would be good. Thanks Stu

Ive been searching for on if these for around 8 months. Im after the clock and surround in good condition out of series 1 or 2 preferably with wiring but i think im pushing to find it with the wiring with both plugs intact but you never do know Someone anyone?

Mine has 138,000 and i bought it to years ago and it had 60,000. Ive started towing a trailer with about a tonne of weight everyday about 7months ago and it tows well. never cost me any serious money yet. Service every 5000km, although my realese bearing is realy noisy ive never had any dramas "touch wood". Thats just routine maintenence.

My point exactly!! If i wanted a shorter gearstick id shorten it. That wont change the throw distance. some people have no idea!

Im finding that my stagea is to far between gears and i cant get quick gear changes. Is anything available to make my gear changes quicker. ie short shift kit. If so where do i find?

bump price drop $500 Its got to go!!!!

Im getting sic of seeing a hole in my dash, im after a standard dash clock in good condition including the wiring and both plugs. one plugs into the back of the clock and the other end plugs into a loom behind the stereo. Im not fazed if its series 1 or 2 as long as its in good nic. Originaly i was after a series 2 but these seem hard to find. Thanks Stu

Xtreme Xtra Heavy Duty Clutch Cover Engineered specifically to perform in Xtreme Street or Sprint conditions. The driveability is decreased due to increased pedal effort and style of clutch discs, however this minor compromise is overweighed by the Xtreme performance of the clutch. These clutches are offered to the higher performance modified vehicles that require a greater capacity but do not require a multi plate clutch. Dampened centre, cushioned segment between lining, Multiple sintered button lining bonded to steel backing Sintered lining offers greater torque capacity, much higher coefficient of friction and higher heat stability and dissipation. Offers great driveability with the advantages of using a sintered lining, relatively smooth and positive engagement, suited for street and sprint use. 1060kg Clamp Load (Approximately 50% over standard.) Kit Includes: Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Suit all these applications Nissan Skyline R33/GTS 2.5L RB25DET Turbo 1989 Nissan Skyline R32/GTSt 2.0L RB20DET Turbo 1989 Nissan Skyline R32/GTR 2.6L RB26DETT 8/89-2/93 Nissan Skyline R31/GTS 2.0L RB20DET Turbo 1987-1989 Nissan Skyline R31 3.0L RB30E 7/86-12/90 Nissan Datsun 280ZX 240mm Clutch 3/79-5/84 Nissan 300ZX/Fairlady Z31 Non-Turbo 5/84-12/85 Nissan 300C 3.0L, V6 5/84-5/86 Holden Commodore VL 3.0L, 6cyl RB30 EFI 3/86-8/88 This clutch retails for $1171 Im asking $550 As you can see in the pic of the clutch plate its nearly new

Ive got this noise coming from my gearbox and it only happens some of the time. probably once a week and i drive my car everyday. Its like a high pitched deep growl and it goes away instantly when i put my foot on the clutch, sometimes it returns but most of the time it just disapears as soon as i put my foot on the clutch. Any suggestions on what it could be?

Looks like the goods ryan, who is Chris Rogers?

Theres nothing wrong with my manual box, its just i got told its a realy big job modifying mine to fit a push clutch. apparently it requires new bell housing new slave, new fork. Is this right, its what my mechanic said i would need to do and he said it would cost big dollars. Yes it is so i can change type of clutch, its just an idea so far. not sure if ill go ahead yet and also gtr box is alot stronger. it also comes with transfer case, slave cylinder and clutch fork so it should bolt straight up yeah?

Sorry dont understand?

what about the attessa system, i know the system is alot more advanced in the stags than an r32 so will this be a problem?

My alarm module in my black widow alarm shat itself the other week and it was draining power from my battery constantly so the auto elect disconnected the immobiliser cause it apparently had something to do with that so my alarm works but no immobiliser. So im wondering what the best value for money alarm is and if you could include what price you paid for it not including instalation. havent got a price bracket yet cause i guess i want to see what everybody recomends on here. Any help would be good Thanks Stu

Ive been offered an R32 GTR Gearbox really cheap and im wondeing if it will fit my stag without to much modifying and if so what needs to be modified. The reason im considering this is cause its from a mate of mine and i know what condition its in and i have a push type clutch that will fit the box and rather than buy a pull type clutch which are pretty dear, i could just wack a 32 box in if it fits.

Dam it!!!! How much is it to convert to push type from pull? Is it a big job? Whats involved? Thanks Stu

The clutch i have is an extreme clutch and has the same part number as one that fits an r32 gtr. Thats why i thought it would fit.

Im putting a clutch in my car in a few weeks and im wondering wether its a push or pull type clutch, the reason being is that i have a push type out of a vl which im told will fit without modifying. Anyone know? Stuart