UOC

Looking for RHS Lower control arm and castor rod if u still have any parts

some useful pdf's and pics here http://www.psiparts.com.au/front.asp?pid=47 cheers

just noticed u r in claremont? im in mackay, if u over this way PM me and will have a listen for ya Ken

U could make a puller, the bolts into the balancer are 6 X 1 mm, get a good piece of flat plate steel at least 18mm thick and drill the holes to suit the balancer. If you get a fine threaded bolt and nut and drill a hole in the centre u can use this to wind the balancer off. (put the nut on the inside and u wont need to weld it on) You do realise to change the water pump u will need to remove the timing belt?

Sounds like piston slap. When your engine is cold the pistons are smaller thus have more clearance in the bore. When u get some heat into the engine they expand @ the skirt of the piston and take up some of the clearance, thus less rattle. Could also be gudgeon pin to piston clearance or conrod bearing clearance. Does it sound uniform thru the engine or do u think its could be localised to 1 cylinder? If u think it is 1 cylinder only, remove the spark plug lead while the engine is running and see if the knock disappears or changes pitch. If it does then it is more likely to be a conrod bearing or gudgeon pin problem rather than piston slap. The vt commodore with the Gen3 was bad for piston slap when cold,a lot of the problem with then was attributed to the short piston skirt.

Hey ppls, my son has just purchased a 93 R33 with a N/A RB25 engine, looks like he has been had and we r going to have a lot of trouble with it Can anyone help me with a Crank Angle Sensor, test procedure and a good 2nd hand one kicking around maybe? Engine is going to high idle and CAS light on dash is coming on so im assuming its the CAS. Any help would b great.