4drfts

its quite hard to get an estimate for a price of a tune because there is an endless continuim of tuning quality. at the end of the day your better going to a reputable tuner who you trust not to rip you off. Also another point is that tuners save the calibrations of EVERY car they tune along with a full set of notes, so as much as youd like to believe your getting a tune from scratch, often tuners will find a previous calibration and start from there, which saves time and hopefully money. I cant say ive heard of microtchs going out of tune, sounds strange. perhaps one option would be to save your calibration on your computer so you can reload it to the microtech everytime the car doesnt run right. also its a good idea to run an O2 sensor, especially a wideband, so the computer can run closed loop, as its often more economical and smoother running when cruising

OBX sppears to be the exactly the same as all the no-name crap from china, but they have just done a better job of branding it. IMO its crap and youd be better off just buying the crap no-name stuff for cheaper as its exactly the same. some parts are alright such as exhausts, fuel rails and camgears, even though the degree markings ore often a little out but you dial them on a dyno anyway. stay away from FPR's as they break, BOV's leak etc and anything that has precise moving parts

your right, adjusting the shape of combustions chambers can be a costly exercise. but if the only way you are adjusting quench is by decking the head/block or using a gasket, then you are directly going to alter the CR anyway. i think really you need to work out what CR you want, and whatever quech that gives you, you want be able to alter. I would agree with adriano though, in your case you would want minimum squish, as you are not running high boost and it is a street car. also, at you boost levels you could safely run 9:1 compression ratio so i wouldnt worry about CR going too high as a result of lowering squish.

my opinion is it doesnt really matter, quench is the enemy. in a turbo engine at higher boosts quench is the cause of pre-ignition. the best thing to o is remove the quench, otherwise take the sharp edges off. although it is common knowledge that quench helps N/A engines, there is ongoing debate as to the best solution on turbocharged engines, and it depends on boost levels, fuel type etc. the easiest solution is to reduce the effect of quech as much as possible. just my opinion.

part number BP550MT

that would be an ACL Monotorque RB30E gasket. I have a new one in ront of me as i type. exactly the same. they are the cheapest gasket you can buy for an rb30conversion, and consequently dont eally last in turbo aplications...

oh by the way spoolup, to reply to your last post, i havnt really had time to work on the head, but thats the plan: run gtr retainers, make sims for underneath, and also run the shims on top, although i think ill grind the top ones lower and have a thicker shim on the bottom

Im guessing Autronic SM4??? I just picked up a new AEM 30-1900U universal EMS to run my 30NEO . I probably wouldnt have bought it if i had to pay retail price for it (around $US2800) But i got got it cheaper. The main deciding factors for me was twin knock sensor control built in which i dont believe the E11v2 or the wolf V500 has, as well as dual wideband 02 controllers built in. the only downside is it only has 5 ignition outputs so i have to run wastespark setup on a 6 cylinder.

ok, it seems your right but i think i have a plan. Im gona use gtr retainers and shims as they shim from underneath, so that will imitate the tipping your talking about. then, ill have to find some springs thatll be suitable or get some made, that shuldnt be too much of a prob. wat do ya think wise one?

O shit Ill have to check that out. how do you go about tipping the valves?

These NEO heads are really interesting and WAY different to any other rb25 head. Hey Spoolup, do you mean I cant run the cams Ive got? I know they dont direct fit, ive had to grind a tiny bit off where the lobe catches the head around the edge of the lifter. BUT, in the R32 head i wuld have had to cut shitloads out but in this head i only had to cut a little bit. Maby this is partly because the Neo Buckets are wider diameter than r33 lifters, and a totally different design even to the gtr lifters. so far so good. the other thing is te shims in the Neo buckets are exactly the same diameter as Subaru shims, so thats a cheap alternative I used to get the clearance on my cams right coz theyre way more common to find

I can tell you for a fact that vg30 rods fit. thats what im using. However i got custom JE pistons made to suit and eagle rods. VG30 rods are 154mm (6.070in) and rb30 are 6in or 152.5mm thereabouts. so vg30 are 2.5mm longer, i havnt bothered trying to find out if they work with std. pistons etc. VG30 DOHC rods from 300zx etc have a 22mm rod bush, SOHC use a 21mm rod bush, same as all RB engines, so to start with youd need SOHC 300zx rods from something like a maxima. both VG rods use the same bottom end as RB so use the same bearings, even the acl website use the same partnumber

yea well im hoping they will be sweet. I initially got them custom made to suit vg30 rods for a better rod/stroke ratio but i was going to use them with an R32 RB25DE head i had. they have a bit of deck clearance so i have room to deck the head if need be as well as play round with gasket thickness, so i dont think it will be a problem . also, since i got custom cams made (276 10.5mm lift) for the r32 head, i figured that to run them in the r34 head im going to need to run the r32 CAS, and im not going to run vvt, just block up the oil feed hole also, just out of interest, i thort r34 heads had bigger valves but they look the same as my r32 head. again i dont have proper measuring tools on me im gona bring them home from work on the weekend to suss everythin out

sounds like a mean build. What are the specs of your pistons? im using JE flat top pistons, but im worried about what the compression ratio is going to be. what is your dish/dome and deck clearance? I just picked up my NEO head so ill be finding the CC of the chambers once i clean them and get a syringe and perspex but i had a rough measure using a CD and measuring spoons and they look around 56cc.