Redliner007

For sale Top offers rolling body need it gone as I need the space Has custom paint however is kind of ruined because someone done a hit and run on the drivers door so has a dent lsd diff manual set up (clutch pedal) is there mint interior has avs 4/5 star alarm Engine bay and under the front guards have all been resealed inbetween the gaps also and engine bay firewall has been undersealed also and rest painted black needs some rust repairs in the boot pics available 0211445437 0273205269

gave decided will just stick to rwd.

I thought my question could be around both areas? As both suspension and driveline set up would both change?

Hey thanks for that, Ive also talked to a few people myself and they think its not worth the hassle either. Might just stick to rwd then lol.

Hey guys im thinking about doing a 4wd conversion into an R34 but I have a few questions as I do not know too much about R34s. What exactly will I need for the conversion? Does the R34 run a smarter 4wd system as compared to the r32? Would I be able to switch between 4wd and 2wd like you can in the r32's? so parts required would be: half shafts 4wd sump diffs 4wd gearbox Hubs (if my current ones don't have splines in them) 4wd Computer???? is there anything else I would need for it or need to consider? Ultimately I would like the option to run both rwd and 4wd but if its too much hassle ill stick to rwd. All help and suggestions will be appreciated

Hey guys im thinking about doing a 4wd conversion into an R34 but I have a few questions as I do not know too much about R34s. What exactly will I need for the conversion? Does the R34 run a smarter 4wd system as compared to the r32? Would I be able to switch between 4wd and 2wd like you can in the r32's? so parts required would be: half shafts 4wd sump diffs 4wd gearbox Hubs (if my current ones don't have splines in them) 4wd Computer???? is there anything else I would need for it or need to consider? Ultimately I would like the option to run both rwd and 4wd but if its too much hassle ill stick to rwd. All help and suggestions will be appreciated

366hp still a decent amount for the street tho I bet it is a lot of fun!!

Nice mate!!! Is this in your r34? You got any pictures of how she's sitting in there? I can't wait to start my conversion aye, just need to get rid of my r33 first get pay off some bills before i get into it lol. 366 5000nm thats nice man bet it pulls hard. What turbo and boost are you running urtwhistle?

and chuck the cover back on? Im just concerned as I'm planning on getting the car all certified for the streets afterwards and don't want it to effect that. How is your conversion coming along anyway?

So if im using the r32 rb25de head with standard throttle body and piping It should prevent the fouling on the bonnet if i get the mounts to sit as low as possible? Im not too keen to go front facing if i don't have to.

Oh yeah so i can get away with lowering the mounts? thats a bit of a relief might even look at getting some aftermarket mounts/bushes while im at it since i will be saving the money from not going front facing. Do you guys know if there is any major wiring issues? Im also using a Link G4 ecu which was previously on a r32 loom, I would like to keep all the factory r34 gauges in working order to give it the "factory" appeal.

Hey guys, the clutch issue you say? Well i have all running gear from my r31 which was initially r33 rb25det. It has a rb25de r32 head. And to answer the question it is a rb30DEt p.s. that link pretty much advertised the car and specs, didn't have too much on the actual build or issues it had. I have basically a fully built motor ready to go in with all running gear just need to clarify what issues i might come across when doing the conversion. I have heard there's issues with the bonnet closing with the standard "J pipe" as it fouls with the bonnet, to get around this you either have to cut the bonnet support or go front facing plenum. I'm not too keen to do either lol has anyone considered getting custom mounts to lower the engine level?

Hey guys, recently I pulled my motor out of my r31 and decided to put it into a r34. I have bought a r34 now but I would like to know the issues I may face in doing the conversion. Surely someone here has already dropped a 30 into a 34 so would be good to get some knowledge of guys who have been there done that already. Are there any clearance or looming issues? any majors? all information will be helpful. thanks guys

Hey mate, without trying to sound like a know it all, alot of the rb26/30 questions and advantages build info is avail on this site under the rb26/30 conversion thread. As with your engine management system im not too sure you would probably have to ask someone who has been there done that. My guess however is no? 450rwhp can be easily produce on the rb25 heads without the need of spending so much money. For wiring looms i don't think theres too many major issues as i haven't seen many problems coming from that. At the end of the day you call the shots mate.

My complete set up is rb30 bottom end, forges wiseco pistons shot peined rods all bearings (mains,big ends etc are all acl Race) slightly polished crank honed and bored by engineer fully balanced 1 tomei 1.5mm oil restrictor n1 oil pump with no collar using a recond r32 rb25DE head. I'm in New Zealand not Australia bro, so will try to find something around here I rang around yesterday and possibly may have found 1 business that does it but they weren't picking up the phone might give it another go today. As far as im aware I think he just put the bearings on without measuring the clearances etc, I will ask him.

we had an engineer who did all the machining work, we did use him in other engine builds and he all good. To be honest I cant remember if we measured the clearance at all of the bearings. Sounds like the oil test is the way to go. I wonder if i could find someone local to do this for me. Is there a special name I should be looking for in the directory? I have spoken to my mate about the situation and he is happy to help its just that he has started a new job and is working 6-7 days so may be a long wait before anything even gets looked at. I'm not prepared to wait too long as I don't have a car anymore and him being in a different town isn't all that much of a help either lol. If i were to pull the motor out AGAIN i'll probably be considering doing the following: As Stuart mentioned the billet gears... I wasn't aware of this originally but hey if it helps with oil control thats a + in my books also getting the collar done for the oil pump may even consider getting forged rods if the pockets let me Is there anything I should also consider doing when its apart? also is 1 oil restrictor alright for the block? I didn't want to restrict both the oil galleries as I didn't want to staff the head too much. Also what torque specs did you guys use for the bottom end? We used the r32 gtr settings I wonder if this could have been an issue also?

Hey All, I just want to thank you all for helping me with suggestions and ideas I really appreciate it guys

in replies to the oil pressure issue, my question is wouldn't the knocking sound have come up alot earlier? As i mentioned that the pressure dropped within first 50km or so. But yeh looks like i will have to get the oil pressure gauge and perhaps drop the sump see whats going on. TRENT you said "Could be a myriad of things all of which the results could suck if left too long.. " so pretty much i should get onto this as soon as possible? This did happen roughly a month ago now :S

Hey guys, I got told by a couple of people to do a leak down test on the motor (im not sure how to do this). In reply to Todoom just a question you know how you spun your bearing was the motor under any kind of load at all? It could possibly be my oil pump as I did use a N1 oil pump but in the rush i did not fit the collar to it expense mistake maybe?? As for assembly to Duncans comment well i was present there my mechanic friend was the one who put the bottom end together and I was there helping him assemble the whole thing...so yeah no warrantee there as it was more a favour unfortunatly lol I havn't driven it since it got home only started it a couple of times not running it for very long. I guess all this is pointing towards me pulling the motor out and actually looking into it that way?? Are there any other possible tests or anything I could do before having to rip the motor apart? Is it possible to spin new bearings also? Thinking back I did only use 1 1.5mm Restrictor on the block could this have lead to the possible bearings being F****ed

Hey thanks mate, I was considering changing the oil in it anyway and seeing how it goes as it only happened within 2-300kms of the new oil just not sure aye, cars parked up now look at it every day in anger lol just getting over all the dramas and head aches,even considering selling it. Pity as I haven't even been able to seethe full potential of the motor.

hey guys ive recently had more issues with my 30 just wondering if someone could help me out... recently the motor after an hour or so highway drive started to knock, I just can't understand why...initially i thought it was the hydraulic lifters or something as it sounded like it was coming from the head,it was fairly similar to the sound I heard when i first done the start up after a while of warming up it had gone away. I can't understand how it maybe a bottom end knock, as everything is acl race, forged pistons, shot peined rods, n1 oil pump etc motor was fully balanced and had a run in tune. I only had a standard rb20det turbo on there as I had just finished running it in and only just done the oil change. I cant understand what it may be the car did not over heat on the long trip or lose any power. Thinking back i do remember when i was bringing the car back from the tune at traffic lights the oil pressure droped dangerously low and when i gave it a few revs it went back up again so i kept the revs up on the drive back home, but since then it has never happened again (this would have been in the first 50km or so of fresh build). I do not know what it can be, please help?!?!? The oil that i'm using is Penrite HPR 10 I've done a compression test on the motor and got between 110-120 across all cylinders, it may be slightly low maybe because of the pistons ive used or perhaps the head gasket? any ideas or suggestions will be much appreciated I just hope I don't have to pull the motor out again.

hey guys ive recently had more issues with my 30 just wondering if someone could help me out... recently the motor after an hour or so highway drive started to knock, I just can't understand why...initially i thought it was the hydraulic lifters or something as it sounded like it was coming from the head,it was fairly similar to the sound I heard when i first done the start up after a while of warming up it had gone away. I can't understand how it maybe a bottom end knock, as everything is acl race, forged pistons, shot peined rods, n1 oil pump etc motor was fully balanced and had a run in tune. I only had a standard rb20det turbo on there as I had just finished running it in and only just done the oil change. I cant understand what it may be the car did not over heat on the long trip or lose any power. Thinking back i do remember when i was bringing the car back from the tune at traffic lights the oil pressure droped dangerously low and when i gave it a few revs it went back up again so i kept the revs up on the drive back home, but since then it has never happened again (this would have been in the first 50km or so of fresh build). I do not know what it can be, please help?!?!? The oil that i'm using is Penrite HPR 10 Few days ago I done a compression test and got between 110-120 across all the cylinders, I thought it may be as the motor is still fairly fresh or maybe the pistons I used were lower compression/head gasket maybe? Anyone have any ideas? I'm just hoping I don't have to pull the motor out again lol

Anyone able to help?? I done a compression test couple of days ago didn't really help out too much got between 110-120 across the cylinders, but that makes me think whether compression may be down as the motor is still relatively fresh, or maybe because of the gasket used.

hey guys ive recently had more issues with my 30 just wondering if someone could help me out... recently the motor after an hour or so highway drive started to knock, I just can't understand why...initially i thought it was the hydraulic lifters or something as it sounded like it was coming from the head,it was fairly similar to the sound I heard when i first done the start up after a while of warming up it had gone away. I can't understand how it maybe a bottom end knock, as everything is acl race, forged pistons, shot peined rods, n1 oil pump etc motor was fully balanced and had a run in tune. I only had a standard rb20det turbo on there as I had just finished running it in and only just done the oil change. I cant understand what it may be the car did not over heat on the long trip or lose any power. Thinking back i do remember when i was bringing the car back from the tune at traffic lights the oil pressure droped dangerously low and when i gave it a few revs it went back up again so i kept the revs up on the drive back home, but since then it has never happened again (this would have been in the first 50km or so of fresh build). I do not know what it can be, please help?!?!? The oil that i'm using is Penrite HPR 10 I'm soo stressed out, just hope I don't have to pull the motor out again.

too be honest i didnt know there was one lol. Um i was thinking maybe it was because of the bigger motor it was doing this? I have yet to pull the speedo drive out a second time to confirm that it has chewed the plast gears, cutting groove and rotating???? I'm not aware of this