wrxhoon

They are made in China and they are copies of the odyssey 1200 minus the metal case . I had 1 in my car for about 1 year and its fine . I have 2 small ones in my jetskis , had them for 3 years now and they perform fine . The original jetski batteries only lasted 2 years .

Same as a local car that has been registered , depends on market value of car .

Doing fine , i still have the trap speed on him though . I don't think i'll be doing anymore to this car , i'm waiting for my r34 gtr ( its in Osaka waiting for a ship ) . Mick should be a bit quicker next time at wsid , new spark plugs fitted and spark plug cover off , thats got to be an extra .2 - .3 sec quicker ! When are you going there next ?

I didn't say they are 1200 cca , what i said is that they are a copy of the odyssey 1200. they are not 1200 cca they are 1200 ca . They are probably around the 600 cca and about 40 amphour . I believe they are a very good battery , i have one in my r33 gtr and i'll buy one for my 34 when it comes here from japan . Some forum members have these batteries in their cars , if anyone is not happy with theirs please say so . The dimentions are : 197x165x170 high al in mm , same size as the odyssey 1200 minus the metal case .

I would like to buy a few sets , no tyres and scrached to bits for $700 . Good luck finding a set for under $ 1500 in good nick !

Are you sure when the can broke it didnt damage the valves ? look at it this way , the exhaust valves are down ( broken cam ) pistons come up the will hit the valves and maybe bent them , just like before . If you have cracked pistons you should be able to see something and you cant have broken rings or ringlands and unmarked bore , surely you will see some scoremarks !! I would look for another engine builder if i was you as well !

Was there 130 comp on all 6 ? if yes you should do a leakdown test . It maybe your gauge , did you warm the engine to normal operating temp before test ? did you have throtle open fully ? If you put to much oil in the cil its going to increase comp a lot .

o.k. cool , i dont know your setup so you may have to work out some mods to fit it . I know it fits perfect in the r33 spot all you need is a bigger top bracket ( to fit in the 33 spot ) .

nxtime , i'll put you down for one . what kind of car do you want to install it in ? R33 ?

Next time give it a good polish , it will go quicker , it works fo mick .....

Pay a little more and get a tracker , self tracking and no annual fees , much better than quicktrak

They look good on the r34 gtr with 20-25 mm spacers too .

I just checked postage to Melbourne is $16 , i have to register and insure it , so all up would be $156 delivered to your local p.o. Let me know if you are interested .

You probably find that you have some bent valves . did you check compression before you stripped the engine ? if yes and you ahve already servied the cil head , check the top of the piston in cil that compression was down for cracks . You will need a big magnifing glass , then check the bore for scoremarks . If there is no marks on the bore the rings will be o.k. and if there is no cracks on the pistons they will be o.k. too . If the engine is old then have the bottom end done as well .

Whats the problem with it ? piston let go ?

There is nothing wrong with a welded housing as long as its welded well . If you just put new coolant in there is no need to change it again when you replace the housing , just collect it and use again .

I have N1 turbos in my r33 ( r33 N1's ) 360 deg sleeve bearing . All N1 /nur turbos are steel wheel , only R34 turbos are ball bearing ( all r34 gtr turbos both ceramic wheel and steel wheel are ball bearing ). When i was in Japan i saw at least 3 different types of so called r34 nismo n1 turbos , so there are different types . I have full boost ( 1.2 bar ) @ 4500 rpm in 3rd gear and it holds all the way to the 8100 cutout .

it looks very simmilar to the r33 housing and a little pitted , where is the crack ?

It shouldn't cost you any extra to swap cam gears over .

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Yes you are right , my mistake . Its on the lower hose but it comes up to the side of the block .

The thermostat is in the housing that the top radiator hose goes in where it connects to the cil head .

Same as standard spec 0.42-.048 for intake 0.35-0.41 for exhaust

If you cant find one take it to anyone that has a tig and get them to weld it for you . Dont trust any sealant . Yea we live and learn!!!