wrxhoon

Postage to melbourne would be about $20 .

Its exactly the same battery as the odyssey 1200 ( odyssey say 1200 cca but thats not true , they are 1200 c.a not cca ) Go to the odyssey website and look at the 1200 cca . Thre is some pics and a comparo with the 800 ca odysey , i dont have a 1200 here to compare it with .

You can get them from Nissan but they are about $70 each . Go to any auto shop and get a universal boot kit , about $12 -15 each , they have the molly grease with the kit . You dont have to remove the driveshafts from the car to replace them .

The r33 has a hydrolic clutch not cable . You will find that you may have a leaking slave cilinder ( if as you say you have fluid near the g/box ). look on the bellhousing , there is a little cilinder , when you push the clutch pedal the shaft pops out ,if it leaks from there thats your problem .

Yes that was the price in 1996 in japan , add to that any options fitted , like abs sunroof and whatever + 5 % consumption tax in Japan then add rego costs . If you were to bring the car to australia you would -5% jap tax , add 15 % import duty + shipping to australia + 10 5 gst , then the price would be somewhere in the $50 - 60 k i would think . 1996 gtr series 2 was under 5 mil jpy , thats only around $63000 aud , if that was the selling price in aus in 1996 Nissan could sell as many as they could make !!!

Still looking

Still looking

You are not having much luck ! Just weld the cracked one , its fairly easy to do .

I have both a gtr ( r33 ) and an sti (02 ) and have owned several more wrx's and i have an r34 gtr m-spec waiting for a ship in Osaka . The 2 cars you are looking at , are totaly different cars , you are looking at a wrx sti ( new $60 k ) and a R34 gtr ( if it was sold here new it would be $120K + ) You can't realy compare the 2 cars , you may want to compare the sti with an evo ( same price bracket ) . So its your budget and taste in what you want to buy , personaly i like them both . As to which one is quicker well in stock form there is not much in it maybe 1-2 tenths of a second in 1/4 mile times in favour of the gtr . As for claimed power ( remember claimed power by the makers ) sti 195 kw ( aussie spec ) gtr 206 kw 9 Gtr has more like 230-240 kw . Weight , again not much in it now that the rexy has put on the beef ( the six speeder is now close to 100 kg the old 5 speed was only 50 ) sti around 1450 kg and gtr 1550 kg . When it comes to driving the 2 cars on the road ( stock ) the gtr feels more lively has more power down low and you can pot around off boost easy , no need to change down as much as sti , sti seems to have a narrow power band . Now if you want to get them going a bit quicker again the gtr is easy to get moded . My r33 gtr has the factory stock n1 turbos , ebc ( 1.2 bar boost ) and a tuned power f/c everything else is stock including stock airbox . It has run 11.7 1/4 @wsid @121 mph , try that in the sti !!! To give you an indication we had a 00 sti ( much lighter than 02 at around 1250 kg) with a vf34 turbo , tuned power f/c and ebc 1.2 bar boost everything else stock and it was good for 12.6 @ 111 mph . As for handling in stock form the gtr feels more firm on the road ( much less body roll ) and more neutral feel going around corners . It will outhanle the rex everywhere but in very tight corners , gtr is much bigger car . The sti will go very quick as well but with much more bodyroll and understeer . Now to your arguement , why pay 80k for r34 when you get an sti for 60 , why not buy a wrx ( not sti ) new for 42 k and put in a 2.5 engine from the states and make it as quick or quicker than the sti ? Its your choice you could even go for the falcon turbo , you can get one for low 30's ( second hand ) or at the other end maybe a porsche or even an m3, its your budget and your taste , i like all high performance cars . Both cars are durable if well maintaned and kept in stock form and yes the 6 speed box in the post 02 sti's is much stronger that the old 5 speeder . I have seen plenty 5 speeders bust 2nd gear but i havent busted one myself in all the rexes i have owned , maybe i drive them to easy i dont know but i'm not scared to drop the clutch at say 7000 rpm in either the rex or the gtr .

Cold , intake 0.42-0.48 and exhaust 0.35-0.41 mm i would go on the higher side so you dont burn any valves and put up with the a bit of noise .

It will make it quiter but it wont stop the droning . To stop that you will have to look at the design of the rear mufler and tip .

A while ago i did a group buy on sealed batteries . Some people have been asking me if i can get them again . I made some enquiries and depending on interest i can get them but the price is slightly higher $ 140 each . These batteries are totaly sealed and they are a copy of the oddessy 1200 but without the steel casing . Anyone interested in a battery ( its a must to have a sealed battery if its the boot , like the 33's and 34 gtrs ) let me know and if i get at least 5 people i'll get then . Pick up in Sydney .

You know you dont have to go to nissan for a thermostat don't you ? You can buy them at any auto shop , just buy one with a temp the same as yours or if you like slightly lower , say 80deg . The correct way of testing would be to have a thermometer in the water so you know at what temp it opens . When you say it opened at boiling water temp , how much did it open ? fullly open it should be around 10 mm , not just cracked open . Anyway they are cheap so just replaced since yoy have it out . As for the bolt you snapped you will need to drill in the centre of the bolt and use an easyout to remove it , next time dont be so agro with bolts , the snap !!! If you are not experienced doing bolts up use this rule : do it normaly with whatever , socket spanner ... then get a ringy open end spanner ( have you noticed how they are small for the small sizes and they get bigger as the size goes up ? ) now if you use that spanner do it fairly tight , without busting your finger !!!

Nismo , igor has a point when he says that when thermostats play up they usualy stay open all the time , not closed . Thats not always the case ( obviously not in your car if its stuffed ) some times they wont open up or they open at much higher temp . Of course the radiator could be blocked , the fan not working and a lot of other things but you have to eliminate the possible causes one by one and the thermostat is easy for you check so do that first . You cant tell by puting your hand on the hose how hot it is , the bottom hose is always going to be cooler than the top .

Sure you can but its ilegal to let the gas go in the air you have to retrieve it .

I always remove the air cond pump first tie it on the rail or somewhere there before i remove the engine , this way you dont have to let the gas go .

The goldish colour is the colour of the nur spec cars and N1 's , the reminder should be red .

Try this, http://www.rabbit.ne.jp/ or this http://www.gtnet.co.jp/home/menu.html But they are not cheap , the auctions are much cheaper .

Yes you do depending on cost , it comes in at above $56 k but you only pay on the sum above that not on the whole cost .

Its hard to see the fan spinning faster but you can tell by the sound , it sounds different when its under load . Another way of testing it , try blocking the radiator front ( cardboard will do ) , when the engine is hot if the fan operates as it should , when you rev the engine ( say 3-5000) you will see the radiator geting sucked in a little , that won't happen if the engine is cold . To me it sounds like you have a crook thermostat ( but its only a guess ). If you overfill the plastic coolant reservoir it will always overflow , even if everything is working well .

How is the gtr going Kris ? Mine is still locked up in the garage in Osaka , waiting for a ship and colecting dust .

The main radiator fan is attached to the water pump housing and its a clutch fan , it only hooks up when the engine gets to operating temp ( DON'T try to hold it while the engine is going ). When you say it works , how do you know ? Its always going to be free spinning , you have to make sure it hooks up when the engine is hot .If you rev the engine when cold it will free spin , do it when the engine is hot and it will make a different soundand blow ( suck towards the engine ) a lot more air . This overheating did it just apear or has it been happening for a while and it just got worse? when do you hear the belt squiek ? It doesn't matter that you didn't remove the plug on the block to drain old coolant out . The reason you do it is to get rid of most of the old coolant , the way you went about it you left water in the block . Next time you change coolant undo that plug , ignition on climate control to max ( hot )and either undo the bottom radiator hose or open the radiator plug , then flush with hose , leave it until most water comes out , do everything up then fill with redy mixed coolant ( buy ready mixed its easier and about the same price , i use 33% but you can use 50% if you like ). If when you pull the thermostat out it works ok , you may want to buy a lower temp thermostat ( the temp should be on it ) . Its normal for the coolant to come up when you are reving the engine , as long as it doesn't shoot up .

Import duty is only 10% as of 1st january 2005 and reduces to 5% 1st jan 2010. +gst 10 % as for the state stamp duty i think it varies a little from state to state . In nsw its 3% up to around $50k and from then on its 5% . Stamp duty you will pay the same regardless , even if buy a car registered localy thats why i didnt mention above .

your problem is not the concentration of coolant i don't think , its a good sign that there in=s no contamination in the oil or the coolant . The other thing to do would be to check for steam coming out of the exhaust pipe when the engine is normal operating temp. Are you sure that your clutch fan works ? Fan belt is doesn't slip ? what about the electric air cond fan ?Are you loosing coolant ? the thermostat should be fairly easy to remove . To flush the cooling system you must undo the plug on the block and while the ignition is on put the climate control on the highest temp , then you get most of the coolant out .

If you buy a worked r34 you have to put it back to stock to get it complied , you can only use stock parts , nothing aftermarket not even brake pads .