wrxhoon

The heat will eventualy cause the wheel to come appart from the shaft . I'll be intersted to know what boost he was running and for how long as well . Andrew check your email.

To fill the cooling system you have to undo that nut, turn the ignition on ,put the climate control on the highest seting ( hotest ) , undo the radiator cap and fill to the top . fill the coolant bottle to the line that says max . Take it for a run until it reaches operating temp then when it cools down undo the radiator cap and top it up . You cant tell if the thermostat works by the radiator hose , its always going to be hot . You dont know how hot the coolant is by looking at the factory temp gauge either . They go to the middle when you reach about 75 deg and stay there until about 105 , when they start moving up its geting very hot . If you had an aftermarket gauge or better still a power f/c commander you could see what i mean . 50 % coolant mix is fine , i use 33% ready mix , 50 % is more expensive and not needed in sydney .If you use a 50 % mix it will last a bit longer , say 3 years instead of the normal 2 . I think you will find that the oil temp will go up even on colder days if you drive it hard and for long periods , say 1 hour or so but of course it will get hot quicker on a hot day .

Yes you are right Andrew in part . The exhaust wheel comes off while spinning or it snps the shaft , it hits the turbo housing and it becomes tiny pieces like sand grains , some of it can get sucked e wheel will be in the cat .

Its hard to buy one localy as there is not many here . You will save about $20 k buying the same car in Japan . If you want a spec 1 Jan 99 -november 00 , depending on k's and condition they go from about 3 mil to 4 mil yen , then you have to add fob costs ( about 100,000 yen ) + shipping and local customs ( about $2k ), then you pay import duty ( 10%) on the cost of the car including fob , add all the above costs including shipping and pay 10 % gst . Compliance cost , in sydney $5000 including tyres ( + brakes , if they need to be done ) , then normal rego costs . Keep in mind that cars that dealers sell here are usualy the cheaper ones with high k's ( yes i know they only going to have 30 k k's on the oddo after they done a job on it). So you will pay $90 k here for a car you will get for $70 k from Japan . You don't get to see the car from japan , thats the only problem , unless you do what i did and go there have a holiday and pick a car there .

Sorry i don't have what you want , you can get them from Nissan Hornsby , or if you want aftermarket ( forged are not much dearer ) go to rocket industries . Another rb26 that let go the ceramic turbo wheels . How much boost were you running ?

93-103N-M , Do it in stages .Tightento 29 NM then to 98 NM , loosen to 0NM. tighten to 25-34 NM then to 93-103 NM

It sounds like you have a cooling problem . Check to make sure there is no air in the system , thermostat to make sure it opens (take it out and put it in hot water it should open 80-85 C degrees ) . when you first start the engine in the morning ( cold engine only or you will burn yourself ) , take the radiator cap off then rev the engine say 3-4000 rpm and see if the coolant shoots up , if it does then you may have a blown head gasket and or cracked head . look for milk like stuff on the oil cap after you been running the engine for say 20 or so minutes and look for oil in the radiator ( never take the rad cap off in the engine is HOT or even warm ) . If you find any milk in the oil or oil in the coolant =bad news . The reason the oil is hot is because the coolant is hot . coolant ciculates to cool the engine , in your case it doesn't do that so the oil is just as hot as the coolant , as it would normaly after you drive for a while .

I have one , off r33 gtr $40 + postage , i'm in Sydney

Sure you can buy any part you want from Nissan but a second hand airbox would be much cheaper .

Your local Nissan dealer will have some but they are not cheap , around $70 each from memory.

I have some Japanese yen that i wont need , if anyone from Sydney is going to Japan in the near future contact me and we can do a deal . I'll sell them at the advertised excange rate , this will save you and me geting ripped off by the banks .

I have some Japanese yen , anyone going to Japan in the near future from sydney ? Contact me and we can do a deal , i'll sell them at the published exhange rate . It will save you and me geting riped off by the banks , i already got ripped off when i bought them .

The steering wheel has no wear marks on it . If you are intersted i can provide you with more detailed pics , pm me your email .

I have a series 1 r33 steering wheel with the airbag

Engine number the only sure way to tell . other things like oil cap but they can change them .

there is a vin and a model number for you : vin, bnr34 403603 model number , ggjprwyr34zzaaam-d

I have original gear boot and hanbrake cover , in sydney .

Justin , With forgies you can run 1.2 -1.3 with your 2530 's , if you are only after 1 bar you could use smaller turbos , 550 injectors are plenty for 1.3 bar boost , nismo or z32 airflow meters will be nice .poncams will be good to give you a bit more mid to top . As for spending the piston rod money on brakes , yea i would too but the forged pistons are not much more than stockers form nissan , maybe 100 - 200 extra . For track work you most definantly need sump baffles and maybe a bigger sump an oil restrictor would be a good idea too . I wouldnt pull the engine down and put back the same pistons , bearings just to save $1500 now and spend $5000 later to pull it down again . I have arias 87 mm pistons in mine n1 turbos ( about the size of 2530 's ) and i run 1.2 bar boost on stock rods , stock cooler ( r33 gtr) , stock injectors ( on the limit ) , stock airflow meters ( on the limit ) . I have power f/c and full exhaust ( 3") , stock airbox , stock cams and camgears . I had a couple of runs @wsid 11.7 @121 mph ,you could easyly do better with the above mods as my car is heavier ( r33) .

bump

up you go

Still looking for airbox

Still looking for r34 h/lights and a r34gtr airbox

I have seen them on a r33 gtst , i didnt look like the guards were rolled but didnt look to close

If thats right he should still be able to engage 5th but crunch as it goes in and egage normal when the car is stopped .

Passengers airbag was an option on all series 1 gtrs , most of them only have one though .