wrxhoon

Yea thats the one , take the hose off the plenum and you will see the pcv .

Time for an engine rebuild , to much blowby .

Yes you can get anything you want but you have to pay annual fee , i dont pay anything .

In nsw you can get whatever you like as long as you pay annual fee . These are standard premium plates , the slimline plates , simmilar to victorian but ours the front is smaller than the rear and they come with 3 letters +2 numbers +1 letter .

Thats where i have mine , some people have it in the glovebox .

Panelbeating supplies shops . If you want to come to sydney vg at girraween . Do you want to repaint the whole car ? If not they will colour match for you and they dont charge a lot either .

Use compressed air to blow it off before you take the plugs out .

I have gtr33r , no annual fees and have them on r33gtr too.

There is only 2 refineries in sydney kurnel ( caltex ) and Clyde ( Shell ) . bp and shell come from the same place , Clyde , the reason no bp or shell around . caltex only just starting to produce 98 octane so only some of their service stations would have it , go on their website to find out where . I know some media said that the problem was kurnel but they got their refineries mixed up the problem is with clyde some maintence problem . Some bp and shell servos may still have some 98 , the ones that dont sell much . I got some bp ultimate yesterday and my car will ping in i push it hard ( probably old stock or mixed with 91 octane ) so be very carefull , you can easyly blow your engine !!

They are very good but very expensive to maintain , make sure you have spare cash to rebuilt an engine if you get a dog .( 5-8 k) Stock car mid 13 1/4 mile , with bolt ons the sky is the limit but be prepared to swap turbos or steel wheel them , ceramic turbos keep them bellow 14 psi . I have an r33 , the only mods are , stock n1 turbos ( 1.2 bar with ebc ) front pipe + catback , power f/c and intercooler pipping ( one pipe burst ) with stock cooler , stock injectors ( on limit ) , stock airflow meters ( limit ) with stock airbox . I have run 11.7 twice before they booted me @121 mph , the car is good for mid -low 11's with a good 60 ft .

Of course if you have a hoist and gearbox jack is much easier but it can be done on stands too . I've been doing it for years , lift the car as high as you can and use 4 stands and you can fit everything under there no problems . You need to have another person to help you and a good trolley jack ( profesional not a toy ) and you can do it . As for puting it back its easy if you have the clutch aligned ( you need a tool or an old main shaft ) if not aligned you will never get it in , i dont care how many mates you have there . If you dont have basic tools ( long extensions , uni joints and the like) don't try it . Gtst boxes are much easier i must tell you though ( no transfer case to twist the box ) , thats why i use a chain to chain it to the trolley jack .

I have a 17' acer monitor , works perfect , i replaced with lcd . I'm after $90 , i'm in sydney .

On that budget i would go for rexy , you can probably get a 01 model with high k's or pay a couple $k more and get a low to mid k in good nick . I have 2 wrx's and 2 gtrs ( both 33's )

Hire a car to drive around , to much work to r+r engine in a gtr , its like 16 hours work , 8 in and 8 out . Sorry cant tell if rb 20 is a straight fit , i wouldn't think many people would have done it .It's usualy the othrer way around .

Have you had the compression checked ? How well does it run when you do start it ?

The ramps should be high enough to get the box out but i always use stands . jack the front up first put stands under then the rear and put stands there too . If you are going to do a clutch at the same time you need an alighning tool to line it up . If you don't have one you can buy a cheap one from an auto shop. Like jay said the top starter bolt is a bitch to undo and a bit harder to do up but its doable . When you undo the attesa pipe at the rear of the box have something to block it so it won't leak and get air in it and when you put it back you may have to bleed the system . The gtr box is very heavy , about 90 kg so don't try to lift it and its a good idea to chain it on to the jack cause the transfer case makes it twist . I hope you know how to release the fork if you still have the pull clutch in it ( thats what they come with ) . if you don't know post or pm and i'll try to explain . Jay has a 32 with a push clutch so you dont have to release the fork . Make sure you pull the gear lever off as well , other than that you can see what you have to pull off once you are under the car , all the usual stuff . To get to the 2 top box bolts you won't have to jack the motor up , before you undo the box crossmember put the jack under and just drop down slowly until you can get to them .

Try and buy the best fuel you can in the meantime . You can get a power f/c and hand controlle for $1200 + you will have to pay for someone to tune it , $ 300-400 . In the mean time take it easy on the car .

Yes it will and its verry risky . Not because you have no boost , its because it cuts boost for a reason ( knock ) to save your engine . I don't know if anyone can tune stock ecus but you can get a power f/c and have that tuned . Check to see if you still have the restrictor in . As far as boost drop to .6 it will that often but it will go back to normal as soon as its reset itself .

At high RPM, the pressure behind the wastegate flap can be great enough to overcome the spring pressure, and "blow" the wastegate flap open. I'm not too sure if this is a problem with the standard R33 turbo, but WRX's suffer this problem.

Who is going to charge you $1500 to R+R gearabox ? Good work if you can get it !! Dont pay more than 500 for that . How come you have to replace the box ? If the car is not complied you will need to use stock size tyres , i think they are 225x50x17 but not 100% sure .

It must be one of the quickest 1fz on the planet . they turbo them in the middle east but they have to push 21/4 ton landcruiser so they can't be that quick but yea they have heaps of torque and you wont blow them up in hurry ... Yea they would be very heavy at the front of the old crown . How old is the crown ? mid 80's model ? Still auto ?

MS-75 , Don't tell me you have a 4.5 lt landcruiser engine in the crown !!! I'm interested to know , how much boost are you running in the old truck engine ? They are very tough engines biuld to last for ever ...... Looks like 10's are just around the corner .

If your turbo let go you would know it , i can assure you first it would be noisy unless the wheel came loose but i doubt that ..

I have r33 n1 's in mine and they are great . 2530 's or gtss 's i would go for . the gtrs's are very laggy and you would need to run high boost 1.5 bar + . I run 1.2 bar on my n1's and they pull hard from 4000 all the way to 8000 rpm. I would check the engine if i was you before i install the new turbos . If you had the stock turbos with ceramic wheels and one let go you may find that the ceramic dust has gone through the engine and scored the bores . Which turbo let go ? the rear ? If yes check compression and do a leakdown test on the rear 3 cils to make sure you don't install good turbos then you have to pull the donk out .

I don't think you busted anything . If you leave the car overnight you will find it will boost again to normal boost . You have a stock ecu , right ? You probably find that it running a little lean at top rpm and the stock ecu nocked boost down to what the actuator is .6 bar . If you want to make sure you dont have turbo issues try this test . Unplug the hose that goes to your turbo actuators anywhere you get to it , take it for a run BUT CAREFULL , keep an eye on the boost gauge as soon as it hits .9 bar BACK OFF or you nay blow your turbo. If it boosts to .9 then you will know you have no turbo problems .