wrxhoon

I have a passengers side h/light ,it has a very slight crack in one corner ( it doesn't leak ) you can have for $100 .

If you can get hold of a wheel i can get the colour matched for you , or send you to a place to get it in 2 pack . 4door sleeper , I don't doubt that your panelbeater is first class however i just want to point to you how things are done . You can repair a panel without using niki if you want sure but no one does it anymore . 1) by the time you do a file finish on it its to thin . 2) very expensive , cheaper to replace the panel and finaly there is nothing wrong with a filler if used the way it was designed to , actualy its better than file finish and have very thin metal ( on todays cars its very thin to start with unlike old cars ) . Now the primer they put on your car you will find its called primer filler and its a better product than the old primer the use to use ( it doesn't shrink and its much harder ) . Depending on how many coats you apply that will block 40 grit marks . I would never use 240 to rub a car unless i was going to prime it , even then i woul use 320 then prime then 600 if 2 pack finishing coat , 800 if acrylic was going to be used .

Don't forget that all second hand cars coming from japan are very low km's . Aparently they keep the high km cars there and send only low km to australia !!!! lol

Panelbeaters that do high class cars will use filler ( filler is different to putty , or primer filler ) . You use filler ( called niki in the trade ) to fill metal imperfections , first you do the hammer + dolly then shrink then filler then you file the filler then sand the filler with 40 sandpaper , usualy using an orbital sander ( vibrator ) but can use a block as well . Then comes the putty ( usualy spray but can apply with a rubber )or primer filler this saves priming again . The difference between a good job and a crapy one is the amount of filler that you use , one a good job very little , less than 1mm thick but i have seen 10 mm thick niki on a panel . Two.06l , how are the wheels going ? Have you been able to run 11's yet ?

Around $ 4-4.5 k but that depends if you need to change brake pads , you can only use genuine and they are very expensive . Don't forget on top of fob you have to add shipping , customs clearence here maybe a steam clean , import licence funds transfer , all up $1500- 2000 . 15% import duty and 10% gst , then rego and stamp duty . Don't forget that you are buying a car unseen and if it has previous damage you can get it registered in australia EVER . If you buy a car from here its worth paying a little more , less risk .

You have to apply some primer on the metal before the finishing coat is put on regardless of how good the panel is . even new metal you have to prime . new metal first a light coat of etch primer them primer then finishing coat thats the way it is . If you repair a panel , after taking the dint out and shink it you file it with a body file , body files leave file marks thats what you have to block with the primer ,primer filler or putty whatever you use .then you rub back with 320 -600 paper depending on how good the job you want , then finishing coat . If anyone tells you otherwise they are b*shiting .

1 lt every 5000 k k's is normal for a high performance engine especialy if you drive it hard . On the track it will use a lot more though . You should always check the oil level and not wait until its due for a service to do it . Taking it to the track at 3500 k wouldn't efect the oil usage one way or another . If you drive it very easy the rings may never bed in but i wouldn't take it to the track before 1000 k , hard driving when very new may bust a ring . Holdens use low friction rings for better fuel consumpion and their tolerences are not as tight as nissan .

What size tyre are you after Paul ? I have 1 265x35x18 about 80% tread from memory, let me know if you are interested .

How much oil does she use Duncan ? 1 lt every 3000 km ? How many k's on the clock ? Its normal to use a fair bit of oil until the rings bed in but it should settle after 10-15 k k's . If you drive it hard on the track its going to use more oil of course . Some gen 3 Holden v8's use 1 lt every 1000 km and they tell them ( Holden ) thats normal .

A couple of points here : If they use hammers and dollies to repair a damaged panel then they have to srink the panel then comes the filler ( whatever type , these days they mostly use polyester filler , you just add the hardener to it and it cures hard then you file it ) or as you say lead then you file that . After the filing to remove the filing marks they use a spray 2 in one primer filler then using a rubber block sand the surface ( 320 -600 depending on how good a job you want) . I can assure you there is no other way to block the file marks unless you use some kind of primer . Then comes the finishing coat ( a 2 pack mix , colour + hardner ) , a few coats are sprayed then in mica , metalic paints , a few coats of clear , then its baked usualy overnight . If you want a perfect job you cut back with 1500-1800 paper then buf it for a perfect finish . Tthe panelbeaters today mostly will use polyester fillers , not lead and mostly will not repair panels they just replace them , its usualy cheaper .

1.6 mil fob will cost around $32 k landed + complied + rego . 1.8 around $35 k

That will depend on the condition of the car . it will end up costing you $35 k by the time you get it registered . Worth it if its a good car .

Most car co's these days specify 10-20 k k's service but there is a time frame as well ( 6 -12 months usualy ) . If you drive your car normal ( no short trips no hard driving or dusty conditions) thats fine . Personaly i would do it every 5000 or 3 months though and i would use fully synthetic oil as well . 40 years ago 1000 mile intervals was the norm but oil technology has improved sinse then .

Wwhen you put oil in the cilinders the compression will rise for 2 reasons : 1) the oil will make the combustion chamber smaller , so you are compressing same volume of air into a smaller area . 2) the oil stops compression going through the rings . You only pour oil in the cils if you have low compression in one or more cils ( like 30 %- 50 % less than the others ) , then you pour oil in there to determine if its valves or bottom end . If compression doesn't rise quite a lot its valves , if it does rise a lot then its rings usualy . A better test is a leakdown test , thats what you should be doing if you have a leakdown tester .

the only issue here is the diff in compression between cils not the actual number . warm the engine and make sure the throtle is fully open too.

I think you will find that it leaks from the filler neck or the fuel cap . After you been driving for a while especialy on a hot , warm day , take the cap off if there is no hissing sound it means that it leaks . A lot of imports leak from the filler neck because the put them in here and they don't glue them in promply so they are not 100% airtight . To fix it you have to take the filler neck out and reglue it but first make sure the cap doesn't leak .

The variation is a little on the high side but i doupt they will take it back . Its a second hand engine they will say to you ,what do you expect . If you check with the nissan workshop manual , difference between cil limit is 14 psi so its almost to specs limit . Well number 4 is out by a little more that that . Anyway you can try and see what they will say .

thats the reason they have the holes there so you can bolt your gear puller on , that way you wont break anything .

I dont see a problem in taking the harmonic balancer off whith a claw/puller as it is the only way to safely take one off. You will find the harmonic balancer has 2 x 6 mm holes ( pretty sure they are 6 mm but maybe 5 mm ) and you can use a gear puller utilising the 2 holes . If you use a claw puller you may bent or break it .

If your boost gauge reading is right , take out the restrictor and take it for a run to see what the boost will go up to ( the higher the gear the better ) if not to high leave it out ( max 14 psi ) . I was warning you just in case you didn't have a boost gauge . Don't go on the stock boost gauge cause they are not accurate .

You will find the stock boost solinoid on the drivers side mounted on the inner skirt near the strutt tower . It has 2 black hoses going to it and a power plug , one of the hoses ( they are about 8 mm thick o/d ) has 2 yellow lines near where it goes to the solinoid , the restrictor is inside that about 20 mm from the end . A word of warning here if you remove the restrictor and you have bigger exhaust , dump pipes or other mods it may boost a lot more than 14 psi . If you still have the stock ceramic turbos they may let go and you could destroy your engine . Even if you don't have ceramic turbos 1.2 bar is to much boost for the stock ecu to handle , it would lean out at top revs and may blow a piston .

the easiest way to check if the clutch disingages is to engage reverse when the car is stationary , if it doesn't crunch then its fine . try doing it with the pedal a little off the floor . you can ajdust the pedal itself usualy , i never done it in a skyline though .

gtr g/box weighs 90kg but don't forget it has the transfer case with it so gtst box will be lighter .

More like 50- 100 at the most i would say and there is 4 at powerplay , starting price $119 k

If you know how to paint ( you don't have to be an expert , as long as you painted before ) its very easy . Take the dash out sand it with 600 or 800 then use grease + wax remover to clean it ( make sure there is no armarol residue left on it at all ) . Go to auto paint shop and get plastic primer ( its clear stuff ) spay 2 coats on ( let it flash dry between coats ) then in about an hour spray the finishing coats ( any colour you want ) . acrylic paint works best on platics . Some people don't use plastic primer and it peels off after a while . Don't try to paint it if you never used a spray gun before , you will stuff it up .