wrxhoon

R33 gtr engine , gearbox and accesories including inlet + exhaust manifolds , starter, alt and turbos , as i pulled it off the car weighs 330 kg . ( not including air cond pump or power steer pump , they stay on the car ) gearbox on its own including the little driveshaft 90 kg . an rb 25 will be less than 240 kg cause you don't have 2 turbos and no diff in the sump . i would say about 200 kg depending on what accesories you include . gtr sump weighs 29 kg rb 25 will be a lot less maybe 10 kg the extra turbo will be like 10 -15 kg as well .

R33 gtr weighs about 330 kg , it all depends on what you include . 330 kg includes starter , alt , turbos , intake + exhaust manifolds , gearbox and the little front driveshaft . I had it weighed as i pulled it out of the car so no air cond compressor or power steer pump . R32 should be the same , R34 maybe a little heavier .

Now if you can tell me how to put them in properly (apparently big PITA to ensure they're level) I'd love to know cowie 165, If you have the genuine ducts they are easy to install but you have to have the b/bar off the car . The original ducts have small steel clips that hold them on the b/bar , if you don't have the clips ( nissan will have ) or you have copies just use sikaflex to stick then on ( use pressure until it's dry )

not true ali , depends oin the evidence you can produse at court and what evidence the police have . i have been to court several times , once for neg driving ( got off ) twice for not wearing a seatbelt ( got off both times ) and once for speeding , the cop got me on a radar , he was traveling the opposite direction and i got off then as well . i wasn't there so i don't know stevens situation so i can't coment on what would happen in court but whatever he does he needs a good lawyer .

On the spec bit you should have told him you have contacts on .

michael , it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate . do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise, it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) . when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

Hi brad , i have a 95 model r 33 gtr and its burgandy .

i would not use ceramic clutch , i don't know what power your car makes , if you got more than 300kw you may need a tween plate . i have a full face organic plate in my r33 gtr with a heavier duty pressure plate and i don't have any problems . the car makes over 300 kw @ wheels ( 11.7 1/4 mile @121 mph )

don't buy them , buy undamaged rims to start with , the cost of repairing them will be fairly high .

you may have a leak or air in the system , that may explain why ir works when you push the pedal a few times . when you are stationary with engine runing try to put in in reverse gear , if it crunches or doesn't want to go in, pump the clutch a few times quickly then try again , if it goes in then you have a problen with the hydrolic system . look for leaks in the slave cilinder ( under the car mounted on the gearbox ) , inside the car where the clutch pedal is and under the bonnet where the master cilineder is .

predator , i just use an air impact wrench ,it always works for me . if you dont have one , what tony said will work but be carefull not to damage the ring gear teeth .

what do you mean semi forged ? they are either cast or forged , how can they be semi forged ? is half the rod forged and the other half cast ? any way i'm not aware if they are forged or not . i knew about the solium filled valves , the sti is the same and very expensive to replace too. its not expensive to rebuild ( parts anyway i can assure of that ) wrx rebuild parts are more expensive . the sti comes with vf28 and its ball bearing so it spools quicker , one more reason the rexes spool quicker , the pipes from turbo to inlet are very short ( thats the reason they use a top mount ) on the gtir much longer . i never said that vf turbos are better that garrett , i only said that vf 28 spools quicker ) ball bearing ) . garrett turbos last longer and you can rebuilt them , vf turbos are a throw away item ( they are very cheap to buy $ 1100 -1500 ). yea i agree that the top mount in gtir works when you are going fast ( tell me what cooler wouldnt ?) but its useless in traffic because of its location , you get all the heat from the engine in it . wrx on the other hand works 100 % even though its smaller than gtir but don't forget its a lot thicker and sti has bigger cooler that normal wrx's . what do you mean gtir with front diff ? they all have front diffs . i have to strongly dissagree with you on weight distribution , gtir has a lot more weight at the front than a rex . the rex engine is lighter than sr20 , gtir has the box right at the front ( front axle ) the rex has the box way back and even the engine is further to the rear . one more thing the boxer engine is very low so it brings the center of gravity lower as opposed to the sr20 in the gtir . no its not 50 - 50 on the rex far from it you won't find many cars that are , basicaly mid engine cars and some rear drive cars with the gearbox at the back . however rex has a much better weight distribution that gtir ( gtir is vevy front heavy ). as fro the fj 20 not having any input on the sr i dissagree with you there , the basic layout is the same . fj is cast steel sr is alloy , both twin cams 4 valve per cilinder , i know you can't use parts from fj in sr though . do you know for sure that the gtir sr20 has solid lifters ? ( other sr29's dont ) i'm intersted to know , do you have a workshop manual ? if you do check it out . i thought i had one but i can't find it anywhere . probably lent it to someone and never got it back . gtst , you will find that the cooler in the sti is only marginaly smaller in capacity to the gtir , gtir has much bigger area but sti is much thicker , normal rexes of the old shape is smaller still . you are right the gtir gets all the engine heat , in the rex the cilinder heads are a long way away from the cooler and a lot more air circulates in the rex engine bay as it is bigger .

it must be totaly sealed or the top sealed and vented outside . something like an oddyssey or optima will be fine but they are very expensive . a while ago i came across some cheap fully sealed betteries and i put up a post for them . i dont know if these are still available but if anyone is interested let me know and i'll find out . they were only $130 for the big ones ( same as oddysey 1200) the only batteries with sealed top and vent that i know are small jetski batteries but they are to small for cars .

when you first start the engine it should go to around 7 at high rpm . you will find that once the oil gets hot it will drop to around 4 at high rpm and around 1.5 at idle .

no i dont do it on a commercial basis . the steam cleaners that they are talking about are designed to clean the house ,car interior and what have you not engine bays . we have one that we use in the house and i use it to clean the car seats and trim . its an italian job , we had it for about 10 yers long before these cheap asian things came around and it was like $2000 then . i'm glad yoy got your car done without any hassles , did they have to change the pads ? i hope you get your plate sooooon , i bet you cant wait to drive it !! check your pm

informercial steam clean units ? dont know them kris . i use a normal hot pressure cleaner like gernie but a different brand it works on anything . i clean the engine bay and under the car as well as brakes and the wheels inside . did you get your car on the road yet ? happy with the work zorrance did ?

just a couple of points . V6 was sold here in 99 ( 399 of them ) the diesign of the car dates back to 1993 ( 89 for gtir). no forged rods in the gtir sr 20 and i didnt know they had solid lifters , they dont in the 200sx . a stock sti is totaly different to a normal rex , lower , alloy control arms and much stiffer suspenssion as well as stiffer body . i would disagree with the coment that stock gtir hanles better than r32 gtr , i have owned both cars and gtr handles a lot better . i dont care about abs , if you have good brakes you dont need abs , its just that the brakes on the gtir are so small and inefective ( they use the same brakes as n15 sss pulsar ). no doupt you can make them very quick though with a few mods but the cooler must the first one , in the rex the top mount works very well though . yea the stock turbo is good for 1.1 bar in the gtir but then the sti stock vf28 is good for 1.3 bar . like i said before you cant compare the 2 cars its like chalk and cheese . the only thing thats the same is . they were both designed for one purpose to win rallies and we both know who wins on that count ( its only because nissan didnt persist and the base car they had was not as good as the base subaru ). nissan went for track racing with the gtr and they did so well they were first penalised with extra weight , so much so that the were braking their race wheels and then banned them altogether . on my thoughts of the sr20 ? very tough engine based on the old fj 20 ( another good engine ) and very cheap and easy to work on .

i use a pressure cleaner ( 90 degrees C ) when i finish i blow it with compessed air , then start the engine and run it until it gets hot . sometimes i have to take off the sprk plug cover to blow off the water from there . thats what all the car detailers do too.

the stock aussie delivered sti only runs 15-16 psi boost , i don't know where you got your 22 psi . we have a V6 (the 4 door 00 ) , the only mods are : power f/c 3" exhaust and cold air intake going in the stock airbox , it runs 12.6 @ 108 - 109 mph ( 1.8 60 ft , to much wheelspin ) at wsid . no boost controler is used we control the stock solinoid with the power f/c , boost is only 1.2 bar ( 17 psi ) we can't run more boost cause the stock injectors are at the limit . as fo handling the gtir is very heavy at the front , sti has a much better weight distribution . sure you can make the gtir handle a lot better with mods and some 16" rims ( 15" at the very least ) . what about the brakes on the gtir they are crap . in the case of the sti it handles very well as it is, stocker , its a lot later model car and it costs more money as well . you can't compare the 2 cars just like you can't compare the gtir with the gtr .

i must agree with you duncan , they are crap . i have seen several put conrods through the side of the block as well as the bearing issue , i guess thats the reason they bust conrods ( they keep drining them with spun big end bearings . you would expect better when you pay $150k + for a car . as for just removing the sump and replacing the big end bearings , well what can you say , if the crank is 100% unmarked it maybe ok but in most cases you would have to remove the crank , regrind and use undersise bearings . thats what i would do if it was my car , at the very least pull the crank out , check clearances and if everything is ok then at least linish it .

sorry man , my mistake , yea rb26 is where i said , rb 25 is on the exhaust side near the ring gear and low on the block .

engine number on rb25 is on the front of the engine on the intake side just under the water pump , it maybe a bit rusty ( cast iron ).

you can tell the difference , the front and rear guards bulge out on th gtr , its like coca cola bottle shape . the gt badges on the front guards are the same . gtr badge on the grill and rear boot lid but some people have them on gtst's .

toyota landcruisers have both part time 4wd and constant 4wd from late 90 on ( 80 series) the gxl and more upmarket saharas and gxvs have contant 4wd , the bottom of the range ( barn doors at the rear and vinyl seats , yuk) are still part time 4wd you have to select by moving a lever next to the normal gear lever .