wrxhoon

did the ceramic pieces of the turbo get sucked in to the engine ? when my rear turbo let go ( wheel snapped off like yours ) it made a mess inside the engine . the rear 3 bores were scored , pistons stuffed , even the oil pump was scored .

When I set mine up, I used three brassnozzles designed for evaporative cooling which I imported from the US. The nozzles are made specifically for cooling sports stadiums and the like. this may answer your question

they can and will repair anything if its economical to do so but $5 k damage on a vs ( standard car not hsv ) would be border line to write it off i would think . talk to your insurance company if you want them to write it off and they may do just that .

i remove engine + box together as one unit but i dont know if your crane will lift that high . i put the chain on the lift points , one is at the rear passengers side the other at the front drivers side . i remove the air cond compressor from the block ( dont undo any pipes ) and secure it on the rail , do the same with ppower steer pump ( dont undo any oil hoses ) . if you want to pull it out as one unit ( engine box ) you will need the crane to lift about 120 cm . just the usual stuff lift a little at the time and make let the engine come forword a little once the engine mounts are undone and take care not to damage the air cond condenser , i usualy put a sheet of plywood there .

just check the body number , gtr is bcnr33-xxxxxx ( thats the nissan number on the firewall ) only gtrs have bcnr gtst's have ecr33 . the gtrs and gtsts are a totaoly different car , front panels ( guards , wider+ bonnet are different and are alloy in the gtr ), grill and b/bar different as well , the rear guards wider . when you look at the car from front or rear you can see the front and rear guards bulging out . the car underneath has braces on the chassi where the drivetrain tunnel is to make the boddy stiffer . but for someone thats never seen a gtr the body number is the easiest way to identify it by . expect to pay $35 k + for a reasonable car and make sure you have a mechanic to check it for you , they can be very expensive to repair , like $ 10 k for engine rebuild .

as i said before it does come down to tune as well , as far as driver , track ... yea but the trap speed should indicate what the car is capable . with trap speed of 121 mph , i should have a lower et than 11.7 but traction was the poblem as the slow 60 ft indicates .

what size pistons ? are they nissan ? you can get nissan +.5 mm oversize or +1mm but there are aftermarket pistons bigger still , it depends on what they used and how good the work was done . if you have 87 mm pistons ( +1 mm oversize ) like i have in my car and they are the same compression as stock then you will find the compression will be a little higher than stock ( as long as they used a stock headgasket ) . i have 87 mm arias pistons in mine that increases the engine capacity from 2568 cc to 2627 cc . the extra 59 cc + slightly higher compression gives you a bit more power that is noticeable at low rpm ( no boost ) . i dont know what turbos you have , what boost , computer , tune and a lot of other things must be considered . i have the garrett n1 turbos in mine , power f/c , 1.2 bar boost ( ebc) and stock cooler , stock injectors ( on the limit ) , stock airbox , stock airflow meters ( on the limit ) . the car has run 11.7 @ 121 mph 1.8 60 ft but the track was very slippery so i couldnt get a good 60 ft , have a look at my time slip on the registery . i have an r33 so its a little heavier as well , that may give you an indication of what this car could run if the work is and tune are done well . i have seen cars with more mods than mine like 2530's , 550 injectors , z32 airflow meters , camgears and he could only do 12.1 @111 mph with 1.7 60 ft .

that looks like an r33 gtr turbo , thats the markings on the turbos from my r33 ( i removed them and replaced them with n1 turbos ). if you can read the numbers on the little tag , i can confirm with mine if you like .. i haven't seen an r34 gtr turbo off the car so i cant coment what they look like .

you are right duncan you can have 20" rims if you like as long as the wheel tyre diameter combo is the same as stock ( they allow about 3% either way i think ) . as for the width you can only widen the wheels by 1" but the track can only be 1" wider , but who is going to check the track width ?

you are classed as a dealer even if you only sell one car , if the intention was to buy and sell for proffit ( hard to prove if you only sold 1 car ) . rta will be asking you questions if you sold more than 4 cars in a year and you have to prove that the intention was for personal use then you changed your mind ( hard to convince if you only kept them a couple of months each ). very risky to bring 4 gtrs and thinking you can make money on them when there is plenty importers that will do it for you for say $1000 and you will have your money earnig you nothing until you sell the cars , leave it for the pros . if and when the 15 yo rule goes i know of at least one place that are thinking of getting a license under rows for r32 's , then they will be able to do all r32 's not just 89 mods . it will cost a little more sure but post 92 cars are more desirable . dont forget that the low k's you see on jap imports are because they turn the oddos back , i've seen and r34 gtt go to auction in japan with 229 k k's on the oddo , i wonder how many it will have if it was brought to australia 29 ? 39 ? 49 ? i bet no more . dont forget after january 1 the import duty drops as well ! property ? yea its a good long term investment but units at the moment are well overpriced , if you can cope with a short term value drop go with it but i would go for a house if i was you in a good location . shares in blue chip co's is another good option but only buy blue chip not speculative shares .

lower lip sold , front bar still here , any offers around $300

yea , i remember you , you took off pretty quick and you had the top down , you went on to gore hill right ? the traffic was a bit heavy i thought for that time of the day . yea we have another gtr ( series 3 r33 ) but it has personal plates so yea... i'll be sad to the plates go , i dont even have to pay annual fee for them ! next time i'll look out for you and give you a wave ..

yea thats me duncan , when ? what were you driving ? unfortunatly i have to part wth the plates soon , i will be selling the car when i get my r34 gtr . well i'll have to find some suitable plates for it .

yes you do , you can do them on the vice though or use a hammer to drive them all the way home . the other option if you have and old nut the same thread use that to pull them all the way .

its fairly easy on a gtst , a bit harder on the gtr rb26 ,its a little harder to reinstall . i wouldnt take the dump out just to do a coolant replacement though , i somehow get the plug off with dump in place , a lot less work . whatever you do dont crossthread it , its a lot more work then....

the bolt on the side of the block is tapered so its always going to be very tight . if you didnt bleed the air out of the system it will take a bit more when you get it hot and then cool down again . if you left a couple of litrs of old coolant in there its not so bad , just change it more often or use 50% , i use 33% change it every 2 years but i always emty the block and the heater . when you change your engine oil you can never get it all out .

it should be ok , if you cleaned everything but dont be surprised if does it again on cold starts but not as bad as before .

not so under the new rules but yea they must be nissan original part numbers . yea if you have to change gtr ( brambo ) pads they are very expensive but nothing stoping you from buying one set to pass your car then take them off put them on another car and so on to recoup some of your money !!!

just because the car gets complyed doesnt mean its in good nick , it only means it has certain things done to it to make it comply with adrs . yea they must change fluids , brake , engine oil + filter, new tyres and new seat belts . as for new brake pads the only have to do themif they are more than 50% worn . have someone check the car for you and make sure they check the underbody for rust as well . good luck with it .

yes of course there is one in the bottom of the radiator , how else are you going to drain the radietor ? i guess you could take the bottom hose off . the one on the block is there to drain the block .

oil in the radiator not good news . head gasket gone i would say and no coolant does not have to be in the oil as well, it can be just oil in the coolant . take the oil cap of and chack to see if there is like milky stuff under it . if there was no movement in the coolant when it got hot yea it maybe crook thermostat but usualy when thermostats play up they stay open . take the thermo out boil water and put in to see if it opens , if you have a thermometer you can see at what temp it opens.

its on the left side of the block ( pass side ) also you have to turn ignition on and the climate control to highest temp 38 from memory so the coolant drains from the heater core and dont forget to empty the coolant reservoir as well . you are going to need about 8 lts .

i was there with another gtr , series 3 f33 , this one has gtrs's and i'm trying to sort it out , it has 340kw but could only do 12.4@113mph , the clutch was sliping if you launched hard .the last run we got a good launch 1.8 60 ft but missed 3rd gear, it did 12.4 but 110mph , that should have been 12-12.1 . the other gtr with 2530's has been tuned since but hasnt been back at the drags , that should do high 11's now . my car should do low -mid 11 's with 121 mph trap , when i took it there the track was very slippery though . with a better tune and your 1.7 60 ft + lighter car you should do 11's every day . if you want a good tune pm me and i'll tell you where to take it . we are taking the series 3 there on monday , let you know how it goes when we go back to wsid . i got a feeling that the n1 turbos are much better than a lot of people think they are .

was it you last wednesday at wsid ? i was there with another r33 gtr testing it . i just noticed you have 2530"s ( i thought you had n1's ) . i know of another r33 with 2530's he has about 275 kw and hid 12.1 @110 mph but 1.7 60 'in all his runs . we took it and had it retuned but never been at the drags again it will be intersting to see what he does now . i dont know what power i have but at a guess 300 rkw min . i wish i could get 1.7 60 ft , mine is not a vspec so that may be the reason for not geting traction .

i have n1 turbos in my r33 gtr , stock injectors ( they are at their limit ) stock cooler , even stock airbox ,ebc and power f/c on 1.2 bar . i have run 11.7 @120.85 mph , 1.846 60 ft but a lot of wheel spin in first and a little in second .