wrxhoon

gtr will always be slower to boost than a stock turbo gtst , dumps will help a little as will front pipe . stock turbos are better for low rpm response , i thought you would have full boost at about 3500 maybe 3800 with stock turbos , mine did when i had stockies . power fc will do the trick as well , with a good tune , as far a boost goes carefull cause the ceramic turbos do fly appart and when they do they make a mess in the engine . if you want to keep the stockers 14 psi would have to be max . i have n1 turbos in mine and it pulls hard from 4000 ( 1 bar) and full boost at 4500 1.2 bar . i dont have dumps but i do have front pipes and 3" catback with hiflow cat power fc , ebc , stock cooler and stock airbox . it ran 11.7 1/4 @120 mph at wsid and heaps of wheelspin .

if you are prepared to pay around $65 k landed and complied here check your pm . you are right on the $40 - 50 k but dont forget you have to pay 15 % import duty + 10 % gst plus shipping costs + compliance so the $40 k car in japan becomes a $60 k car by the time you get it here and comply it + rego + stamp duty ( you will pay stamp duty on any car local or not ).

if they are all like that one you are looking for $100 per rim , as for the nuts buy new ones @$2 each its only $40 , you can clean them with fine steel wool but it will come back .

it could be the coil packs , they break down under load and more so when they are hot . does it always do it ? only when its hot ? other than that check to see if your injectors are maxing out , it could be them or fuel pump .

you forgot the heavy duty suspension to carry the weight of the turbo and the diesel engine to go with it ......

i dont know anyone in melbourne but i have a ezitrak in mine and i do the monitoring myself ( it rings my phone ) so it costs nothing , i have a vodafone sim in it and only pay if i do any calls , if someone steals it and i have to track it it costs 1 cent per second for the call . you can buy this unit here for just under $1000 , i fitted it myself but you can have it fitted here all up $1250 . it uses gps to track the car so it works everywhere unless its underground it will call you if anyone tempers with it and it will tell you what they are doing ( like door open , battery cut and so on ) it will then give you the location and if moving the direction and the speed and if you have your laptop with you and the software you can actualy see your car moving on the map with street names . you have the option of imobilising the car at any time from your phone . a forum member that fits these things was booked by the police for doing 85 k in a 60 k zone , when he got home he recalled the log in his computer and it clearly showed that he was only doing 58 k . so he is going to go to court if he has to to prove that he wasnt speeding . thats another way you may benefit from the tracker , dont waste your money on alarms they are useless . a top of the range alarm will set you back say $800 for a little more fit a tracker .

it sounds like a selector problem , you could probably adjust it though . i dont know how the gates are on that box but im guessing that reverse has it own gate right ?like you have a double h patern for the 6 forward gears and another for reverse . if thats the case it sounds like when you put it in reverse it doesnt go far enough to engage fully so it pops out , another thing that could be the little steel ball that holds it in may not be there , if someone had it apart and lost it then put together without it . take it to someone to check it out , eithr way it should be minor problem .

15 psi down on all front 3 ? thats a bit sus , did the front turbo let go ? usualy the rear goes . if the front turbo let go and compression is down on the front 3 i'll a little worried . as lwells said it should be less than 10 % variance but i wouldnt want that they should be fairly close like 5 psi difference or less . anyway standard comp is 1.18 mpa ( 12kg/cm ) or about 170psi and variance limit is .1 mpa or about 14 psi . a leakdown test will give you a better indication of the cil bore condition .

paul , when i promise something i do hold to it mate and thats the way it should be , so dont worry the wheels are yours as agreed . next saturday pic up should be fine .

pay a little extra and get a tracker instead , no one takes any notice of sirens going these days , an alarm provides no protection at all , its the imobiliser that provides some protection especialy one thats well fitted and hard to find . a tracker if its self monitored it costs almost nothing after instalation and gives you the best protection ,you can imobilise the car at any time with any phone and you know if anyone is tempering with it ,it calls you .

imflyn , he was first and i'm waiting for him to send me a check , i should have it monday . if he changes his mind then you are next but to be fair to him as he was the first one , he has first option .

wheels are on hold . i have some one that wants the wheels so i will be holding them for him as he is not in sydney , i'll let you know if he changes his mind .

i have a set of r33 gtr wheels and tyres for sale . the wheels are unmarked , no scrapes whatsoever, 17"x9" 2 tyres have about 40 % tread other 2 need replacing ( 245X45X17 ) looking for $1590 . i'm sydney , will post anywhere at buyers expense .

you must be good to be able to tell the speed of the tapping noise .i wouldt go much on the speed of it , its easy to tell if its lifters or bearings , if you cant tell yourself take it to a workshop they will be able to tell you and so would i if i heard it . if iots a bearing it will get a lot worse and fairly quick too , it will stuff up your crank as well , so try to identify it fairly quick . are you sure its just as loud when stone cold ? my guess is it would be quiter and the hotter it gets the louder it gets . how long sinse it started ? you can have a stuffed bearing and still have plenty oil pressure . what about if no 6 big end is gone ( thats the one that usualy goes ) and the piston hits the cil head ? then the noise will be on the top as well as bottom end . roy i hope that its not a bearing , lifters are a lot cheaper than a total rebuild .

are you sure its a lifter and not big and bearings ? if its a lifter it should do it more when cold big ends you will hear it more when hot ( thin oil ) cause when cold the oil takes up the slack ( thick oil ) , i hope its a lifter or 2 and not bearings . anyway this is how you bleed hydrolic lifters : take them out put one at the time in oil ( it must be upright , hole on top and totaly covered in oil ) then you need a thin strong wire , thin enough to fit in the hole , while holding the lifter upright and totaly covered in oil push the wire in the hole hard so you push the valve down and with pumping action ( pushing down and leting it come up again ) keeep going until no more bubbles come out ( very tiny bubbles ) , when no more bubbles come out thats it they are done . to make sure they are ok push down on them very hard they shouldnt move down at all if they do they either got air in them or they stuffed . after bleeding them make sure you dont lie them on their side , keep them upright always . good luck and if you want to know more just ask but it sounds like bad news i'm afraid to say .

whats wrong with the lifter ? very noisy ? did you have the cil head serviced recently ? if you did thats the problem , you must bleed the lifters before you put them back otherwise they maybe noisy . you could probably find the faulty lifter , or lifters , without taking them out , press on the lifter very hard it should not go down if it does its faulty . if you are going to do it yourself let me know and i'll post how to test and bleed them . i think all rbs use the same lifters but not 100 % on that as i havent cross changed them , you may want to check with nissan on that .

only 2 coolant hoses going in to the cabin , one bringing the coolant in and the other returning it so you must have coolant still in the heater core ( its a bustard of a job to take out if you want to fix it )

i dont think the the gtst turbo will damage your engine when it lets go but not 100% on that . reason is the exhaust valves open close cycle is different to gtr . gtst duration is 54 degrees gtr is 56 deg .

i have a set of r33 n1's in my gtr and i find them very good , i run 1.2 bar boost and they will hold more boost all the way to 8000 , they boost a little later that the stock ceramic turbos , power comes on hard from 4000 rpm ( 1 bar ) and full boost at 4500 in third gear . the only mods are power f/c ,ebc i/cooler piping and full exhaust . i did run 11.7 @120 mph with 1.85 60 ft . 2530's are better because they are ball bearing and when i get my r34 thats what i'm going to use unless i find cheap n1's . how is the oil catch can going justin , i still want it whenever you get it back .

i have a set of r33 n1's in my gtr and i find them very good , i run 1.2 bar boost and they will hold more boost all the way to 8000 , they boost a little later that the stock ceramic turbos , power comes on hard from 4000 rpm ( 1 bar ) and full boost at 4500 in third gear . the only mods are power f/c ,ebc i/cooler piping and full exhaust . i did run 11.7 @120 mph with 1.85 60 ft . 2530's are better because they are ball bearing and when i get my r34 thats what i'm going to use unless i find cheap n1's .

gav , there is a deal for you . you boost your stock ceramic gtr turbos and when they let go ( thats right when not if ) if they dont damage your engine i'll buy you a new set and even install them for you but if they stuff your engine then you buy me a set of 2530's .

you will find that the heater has a hole and the brown stuff in it is rust . the coolant probably hasnt been changed sisce it laeft nissan so the whole system ha srust in it ( all steel parts ) . check to see if there oil in the coolant , when you take the radiator cap off you will see it on the top . take the oil cap off and have a look if there any milky stuff on it , if there is or if you have oil in the radiator then its headgasket or cracked head .

arup , i dont if anything will convince jim x that a ceramic turbo can make a mess in the engine .

put your rb25 bolt in the cranks thread it it bolts on its an rb25 if it fits in loose its 26 , rb26 bolt is a bit thicker .

depending on what they do but its not expensive . are you taking the car to them or just the engine ? when you say forgies do mean just pistons ? you can get forged pistons from $1000 ( including rings ) full gasket set is around $330 , bearings about $150 for main and big ends , then you have to allow say 150 to bore the block and about the same to do the crank and around 3-400 to service the cil head then there is a couple of seals that dont come with the gasket set timing belt from nissan 100 , 50 aftermarket , oil filter $10 , if you change the oil pump and water pump tensioner and idlers add that as well . if they do all that and r+r engine out of car $4 k is very cheap , if you take the engine to them and they only do half that then its not cheap .