wrxhoon

if it cant , take the cas out and put back in on tooth out to what it was before , if still not right turn it another tooth , its very easy mate . with the timing light pointing on the crank pulley ( someone holding it for you ) turn the cas to the correct direction ( so it gets closer to the crank pulley mark ) if it doesn't come enough then its got to come out . let me know how you go , dont take the covers off at this stage cause its got nothing to do with timing belt ( that doesn't mean the belt is right but it probably is )

yes they are , pm your details and i'll pass them on if you like

around the $1000 depending on what gets done

you just have to turn the cas , if you do it while the timing light is pointing and the crank pulley you will see what way to turn it , if it doesn't go far enough it means the cas is one or more teeth out , take it off and put it right . the timing light will not tell you if the valve timing is right so dong go taking everything off .

yea sorry to hear , i saw your other post after i posted here . wrx's are different though they love boost as they have lower compression than rb 26's , i have a rex too . did you have sti or normal rex ? sti's have forgies . is the engine out ? or just a compression test and no compression on no 6 ? do you have a power fc ? you see it could have been pinging , anyway you'll see the detonetion marks on the top of the pistons once you have them out . are you going to rebuild ? dont use a second hand engine , it may or may not be good and then you will have to do a rebuild anyway so do it right in the first place . if you need any advice just ask or you can pm if you like , been there done that . good luck with it but you are up for big $. what kind of power did you make with the 2530's ? i have n1's in mine did 1/4 at wsid in11.7 @120mph

dude it sounds like you cas is not right , check the timing and adjust if it still pings after you do that covers out to check timing marks , you can do that with just the top cover off . did you adjust the belt tensioner ? if you didnt that maybe your problem . did you check all the 2 cam pullies marks to make sure they are lining up while the crank pully was at 12 o'clock mark ? ( it was obviously on the compression stroke otherwise it wouldnt run at all ) when you buy a new timing belt it has lines marked on it to make it easier for you to line it up every mark goes on the marks on the pullies .

slugish and blue smoke = the engine is on its last legs , get a compression and or leakdown test then you will know for sure but its rebuild time for sure . rb engine rebuild ( depends on the job they do ) from $5 k up including r+r engine . then while the engine is out you do your turbo and a clutch and the $ go up

take the oil cap off and see if there is any blow by coming out , if it is you probably done a piston ( are they stock ?) 1.5 bar a bit on the high side for stock pistons . if there is no blow by then you may have blown a turbo ( they are a nightmare to pull off with engine in the car ) did you notice it slugish after you gave it high rpm like close to cut out ? without hearing the engine is very hard to guees what is wrong with it but if i had to guess i'd say you done a piston ( for sure if you stockers ) what kind of computer do you have ? what other mods ? how much power do you make ?

dont you remember the red r33 gtr ? anyway i hope you get a good engine from john and get a power fc before you stuff this one too .

so you desided to keep the car ..... get a front pipe , power fc , ebc and if you can a better turbo in that order . i hope the new (second hand motor is better than yours )

no one in vic as they dont have any distributors there they only import and sell in sydney , i'm sure it can be delivered in autralia post as it is totaly sealed and only weighs around 14-15 kg , if you are interested in 1 pm your phone and i'll get him to call you .

20x17x17 cm , it fits it the r33 but you need another bracket

well , i dont know how much he wants for it , as for bent i dont know that either , however if you are not interested in it dont worry about it , its not mine and i dont care , i was only trying to help you and a friend . you can always get a new one from nissan ............

depending on what mods you want but under $40k mid 30's for stock car . send me your email if you want a pic

i may have mine for sale by then ( going to japan to bring an r34 ) so when you are ready pm me if like . lightly modified , exhaust , 18" rims ( or stockers ) , genuine n1 turbos , pfc, rest is stock , has run 11.7 @120 mph at wsid body and interior very good , not the colour you are asking ( burgundy ).70k k's engine was rebuild 6 months ago , new turbos fitted at the same time and new clutch , i'm a motor mechanic and i do all the work on the car , new oil every 3 k k's ( helix ultra 15w50). its r33 made in june 95 and i have all the jap books with it ( if you can read japanese ) i wont be selling it until i get my r34 though

a friend has 1 for sale ( r33 ) what $ are you wanting to pay ?

still have it for sale , i dont know if it will fit some people say it will , you have to make your own research on that .

go direct to japan , you can buy a stock r32 from 700,000 yen , r33 from 1.2 million and r34 from around 3 mil + fob in japan ( 90,000 yen ) + shipping costs ( about $ 1000 us )

do u want bar only ? or lower lip as well ?

sure is but you may want to try different gear oil , it may improve it a little .

i have a gtr front b/bar and lower lip , no blinkers though . i'm in sydney

just get a sealed battery , something like odyssey .

where abouts are you in sydney ? i dont have a pic i guess i could take one for you but you are not going to see much in a pic . is your car the same colour ? the bar is in good nick no dints no cracks even the paint is good , the lip has the usual scrapres underneath but no cracks or dints . anyhow let me know if you still want a pic and ill get a couple for you tomorrow .

you are welcome to come to my place and try it out , let me know when you want to do it . as for the hight i think the gtr maybe lower than a standard hight gtst . i'm not sure on that one though .