wrxhoon

it is a stock r33 b/bar , i dont have any pics but if u r serious i can arange it . do u want it for a gtr ?

i have stock rb 26 pistons ( standard and +.5 mm oversise ) for sale they are both second hand . the standard are the ones that came with my engine so i dont know how old they are but they have rings that only done 5 k k's 5 pistons are good 1 has a crack . the oversise have only done 2k ks . looking for $ 200 ( standard ) and $ 400 + 05 mm

i have a front bumper bar and lower lip to suit r33 gtr , just the bar no blinkers no grill , the b/bar is in very good nick mica red the lower lip has some minor scrapes under it and its black as it comes on the orginaly not painted , both are genuine i'm after $ 550 for the lot . before you ask me if that will fit a gtst , i cant tell you yes or no make your own inquiries , im in sydney

hard to say without hearing but it maybe a uni joint on the tailshaft

dave , does the car move forward when u have h/brake on and in gear ? if yea get someone to press the brakes , you still will get the engine to turn a little but you should be able to undo it . as for the ring gear you have to take the starter out first and be carefull not to brake any teeth . you may want to try undoing it with the starter though read above how to do it . good luck , cheers , jerry

7 in stock boost gauge is about 14 psi , it all depends on how much over 7 it goes if safe or not , ceramic turbines up to 14 is ok anymore its a bit risky , steel turbine is fine .

of course mate you have to set it at tdc before you remove the belt , make sure you line all 3 marks the 2 cam gears and the crank . when you reinstall the cam and crank gears should be lining up with their marks and line up the belt marks with them as well for easy instalation . make sure you dont turn crank pulley when the belt is out you may bent the valves . if you dont know do a search how to time it .

take the covers off , undo the bolts 10mm heads , start from the outside front 2 then rear 2 and work your way to the middle , don't undo them in one hit undo them in several steps .when you put them back do the middle 2 bolts first and work your way to the outside .

dave , its 27mm and its very tight , you need a long bar , put the car in gear and pull handbrake up then use your arm mate . if you cant get it that way you can use the starter , this is how . put socket in place with the bar and make sure the bar will hit the rail ( left one ) when you hit the starter .another way is to take the starter off and put a strong screwdriver in the ring gear the get someone to undo the nut .i hope you know when you get the nut undone you need a gear puller to pull the pulley off , its got the 2 holes there for that reason so you need 2x 6 mm bolts

ferni , why would you want to change your w/s if its new , the only thing you may achieve is some scratches on the bodywork when they change it or even water leaks . if i had a good w/s there is no way i would be changed it just because someone else is paying for it

you wouldn't want to buy a nissan windscreen ( far to expensive ) you can get australian made ( autoglass )supplied and fitted at your place for $ 235 , maybe even cheaper if you shop around .

mate , i have 1 but i'm in sydney , if i was in melbourne i would lend it to you . its a good idea to have 1 anyway you can get them for under $400

you can only get .25 mm undersise ( both main and conrod bearings ) thats 10 thou but can get the crank rebuilt with hardchrome then grind to size . both sr20 and rb big and bearings are the same and you can get aftermarket for around $80 per set .

you will need the high mount stop light to get it complied , all post 90 cars do , so dont take it off .to fix it find the wires that go to it in the boot , unplug them and connect 12 volt battery on them if it works then you have to trace the wires to the normal stop lights . if it doesnt work you have to open the light and check the leds ( very hard to open without breaking it ). it maybe just unpluged though .

powerplay imports number is 98197555 but they are not cheap . you can get new from nissan hornsby about 5 working days delivery ex japan , i would say very pricey though .

i need the exhaust for an r33 , if you dont have any luck selling it let me know but it has to be cheap as i would have to modify it to fit

try www.wrx.com.au or www.wrx.net.au

i have a set , make me an offer

dont forget that you have to loosen the bolts that the alt is fixed on with then adjust the belt ( with the bolt knore said ) then tighten the other bolts again .

what kind af $ are you willing to pay ? stock 17x9's ?

jayson dont forget you have to take the gear lever off if you are going to take it out as a whole unit . turbos , inlet manifold alternator .will come out as a unit with engine and box . kamikazer33 , when you had the box out its fairly easy to do the top bellhousing bolts : tilt the motor back until you can get your hand up there . i wouldnt drive whithout these bolts on for much longer u may strip all of them !!all you have to do is undo tailshaft gearbox crossmember and then tilt the engine back and you can get to them .

yes they come with rings and gudgeon pins as well as circlips that hold the pins in .as far as i know all aftermarket pistons come with rings and gudgeon pins . rocket industries in sydney are the austra;lian distributors for arias , the above price is trade price

jayson , i had r33 gtrs engine out , the best way is the top as 1 unit with gearbox . i take radiator out , fan out ,undo air cond compressor and tie it to the rail undo power steer pump tie it to the guard ,undo the usual heter hoses and unplug all the electrical stuff , disconect the battery ( of course )undo the slave cilinder and tie it on the car out of the way undo the exhaust as a whole unit or front pipes only ,tale shaft empty g/box and plug the hole ( so u dont get oil everywhere ) undo the front drive shafts ( left side ondo the bolts , right side u have to undo the lower control arm to pull drive shaft out ( undo the boot as well )undo the geabox crossmember and take it out ( suport the box )undo the body brace under the bellhousing undo the engine mount bolts from underneath ( dont take engine mounts off ( u can if u want but when installing back u have to have them on ) i usualy take the rocker covers off ( so i dont scrach them ) atach the chain or bar sling to the front hook ( on inlet side ) and on the rear exhaust side ( if no hook there undo the pipping and hook your own with 2 ( 6 mm or 8mm bolts cant remember ) . now comes the hard part if u use block and tackle u need 2.5 mt from the floor to where u hook it up maybe 2.4 minimum if u dont have that the box has to come out . lift a little at the time and let it come forword ( a sheet of ply or mdf on the air cond condessor is a good way to protect it . if u have the height i said it will come out easy , bolt the lower arm back on and roll the car away . u may have to lift the rear of the box a little to get it over the front radiator suport but no drama there . if u have any troubles feel free to ask me via post or pm . by the way the laether boots are great . ps carefull when u lifting not to damage the power steer pipe near the rack . if u dont have a 3/4" ratle gun its a good idea to undo the front pulley bolt , put it in gear get someone to press the brake and i think 32 mm socket and a big bar , or u can use the starter if battery still on .

if you want forgies you can get wisecos for about $1k arias for about $1.3 k , you can get stockies for about $900 from nissan , i used arias +40 thou (87 mm ) in mine some time ago and i find them ok .

celica 91 you have pm