wrxhoon

The car is sold,it took less than 24 hours, thanks for your interest.

Yes and Yes, are you interested in the car?

Make:Subaru Model:liberty GT 2004 Milage: 38000 Transmission: 5 speed tiptronic Colour: light blue Location:Sydney Complied? Yes RWC supplied? no Currently registered?[/bYes but rego will be cancelled ( number AQZ50K) Price:$ 15900 Contact: Email Jerry: [email protected] Comments / Modifications: stock , no mods Images: SOLD

Gotsa , no they are not going to fit mate. When you sell your nuts for $170 , give me a P.M and I can sell you a set to suit the boat ( sorry soarer) for $60.

I thought you had these 12x1.25 BBS nuts for sale , going very cheap as well maybe you should keep them for your R34 GTR. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bb...ts-t203267.html

I don't understand why anyone would even think of using the wrong pitch nuts . Nissans have 12x1.25 mm wheelstuds/nuts just like subarus do, most ather jap cars have 12x1.5 mm. If you are not sure what you have, try doing the nut up finger tight if it goes in nice and easy its the correct size if not its the wrong size , DON'T force it, if you do you will stuff up both the nut and the stud.

I don't know how high your crane will lift Duncan, the trick is to lift it high on an angle at the same time have the car on stands so you can get the angle you need. I have done it on all 3 models this way without any problems . Yes you will have to be carefull not to hit the power steer lines ( you need 2 people , one lifting the other watching). In anyway its a tight fit in there but I can't see it any easierjust taking the donk out unless you use a hoist. Nothing wrong with ACL pistons, I just prefer Jap for a road car for the reasons I gave before, I would use yank pistons on a race car thats for sure , who cares about a blow-by and or piston slap on a race car.. Angus you can use any pistons and any rod combo you like, keep in mind cast pistons are quiet ( close clearences) and forged are rattly. Depending on the power you need/want, I would use my stock standard Nissan rods and i Nisan crank too.

I find it easier to pull out engine/box together but each to their own. Duncan, I don't find it hard at all, I use block and tacle on a fixed beam pull it up and then move the car back . Angus, I preer to use jap pistons for a road car , much quieter than American pistons because you can run closer clearences .

I have a 34 GTT wheel with the airbag.

I know of at least one car that was recovered about 8 weeks after the fact, my ex car the silver STI.

The easiest way to undo them, get a centre punch, put a punch on the top ( one side) of the bolt t5hen hammer it inticlock until it comes loose . You then undo it with your finger, when you have the bolts out take the hacksaw and cut a straight slot then you can re-use them with a flat screwdriver.

G/box, T/F case and the little driveshaft = 90KG

But mine is an M-Spec !!!!

About 340 kg .

Agree, actualy they are better than normal manuals ( ones you push the clutch pedal)

Still for sale, make an offer if you like, you never know ....

Here we go slowly we are getting the full story , how about telling us exacly what you have done fron the start to now , step by step EXACLY and don't leave anything out even if you don't think it matters, then and only then I maybe able to guide you on what to do.

Not at all, you only told us half the story. As the head is off you can turn the bottom as much as you like, no valves to hit!!!! You did the right thing by taking the bolt off, now all you need to do is take the balancer off , you will see two treaded holes on the balancer , so you need a gear puller to and 2 m8 bolts, if you are in Sydney and you want to travel to the hills area I will lent you nine if you like as long as its a boomerang.

I hope you don't have the timming belt off, you should take the balancer off first and then you take off the covers . Once you take the belt off you can't go turning the crank or the cams, if you do you may bent a valve or few. A few degree movement if ok . I can't understand how you can take the belt off without removing the harmonic balancer if you have . If you never done a timming belt before be very carefull , you can do a lot of damage to your engine if you don't do it right. Follow the workshop manual step by step and if you are not sure then ask away . As Duncan said the marks on the harmonic balancer are for ignition timming, not valve timming . These can be a bastard to pull off, the nut is very tight and you can't even use a rattle gun unless you have the air con condenser out. I use the starter to undo the nut and then you need a gear puller to pull the balancer off, whatever you dont use a hammer or a claw gear puller ( you will damage the balancer ). I don't understand what you asking in the first post ( Duncan does ), how about when you put the belt on put a pic of the front of the engine showing all the marks then I can tell you if you have it right. like I said its the gear marks that have to line up not the belt marks.

I have seen them go before, so its not that unusual , Go to Nissan, they are about $130 and they have them in stock in Australia normaly.

The lines on the belt are there only to assist you to fit the belt on and when you spin the engine a few times they will NOT line up again . You will notice the lines on the belt are at different lenghs, place the belt near its possition and you will see how it should go. Tha main thing is to line up the cam gears with the marks on the backing plate and the crank gear must line up with its mark at the same time . Make sure you have a good tensioner ( I like to use a new one) and the carrect tension on the belt .

I don't know exacly how they are set at present but I believe they are not at a set % and it depends where they are located as to what speed above the limit they will nab you . I know of a camera that will trigger at 66 on a 60 zone as far as 110 limit goes, I believe they will give you about 8-9 kmh above that in NSW. I wouldn't drive past a camera at anything above the speed limit , don't forget its about 1.5 mts that they check your speed . On school zone cameras I drive past well bellow the signposted limit and close to 40 kmh outside school hours because some of them are known to have issued tickets outside school hours if you are over the 40 k limit . I know you can go to court and you will win everytime but it costs time and money . Point to point speed cameras are different and I have heard tickets issued for 1 k over the limit .

You are wrong as far as NSW goes ( as we speak, plans are in place for much less leway) but you are correct as far as VIC goes, 63 in a 60 zone ,84 in a 80 zone and they get you. This is speed cameras only, its up to the cop if its a none camera speed trap. What gets me in the case of VIC is the fact that the equipment they use to measure speed has a plus or minus 3% accuracy according to manufactures guidelines, if I was booked for doing 63 in a 60 zone I would defend it in court and I would win everytime!!

Post a pic of the exhaust side and I'll tell you for sure if its stock ceramic or aftermarket steel. By the way the so called ceramics are not ceramic and the so called steel are not steel either.

Whats your engine number ? 64000 will be a 33 engine NOT 34.