wrxhoon

japcab , put ur foot on the clutch wait for a few seconds then put it in first and see if it grinds then but it sounds like worn syncro in first gear . u dont want to fix that unless it gets realy bad . to repair u have to remove the box to replace the syncro and while u are at it u replace the bearings too .

try a bigger bar or a pipe on the bar u are using if it doesnt work get a hammer and hit the end of the bar . if u have a heat gun heat it with that . the plug is tapered and people do them to tight so they dont leak , i have seen the gearbox case split cause it was done so tight . use plummers tape to stop it from leaking .

u can do it its not rocket science just a lot of HARD work , a lot of rubing

fair , considering its 4 hours work

it sounds like its leaking from the rear crank seal dude . $10 for the seal and 4 hours work to r+r the gearbox to replace the seal .as for the cost it depends how much he is charging for labour . its not a problem with the skylines but an age problem as with any old car . the only way to fix it is to replace the seal there is no other way .

rob its possible but easier to move with the switch , when u pull the door trim out all u do is plug the switch back in to move whereever it suits then unplug again , take the glass out put it back in in the same poss as it came out . its very easy on the skyline as u dont have a frame . p.s.u wont be able to operate the window form drivers switch unless u plug the pass switch in . heers , jerry .

still looking for h/light

thats true but dont expect do place the bar on the rail the starter wont have the grunt to undo it , u have to have the bar a fair way from the rail to get a bit of movement firts in order to get it undone . i undo them with a 3/4 inch rattle gun but not everyone has these .

rb25 crank bolt head is 27 mm rb 26 is 30 mm , it has from memory 6 mm bolt holes , u have to take radiator out put car in gear handbrake up then u can undo the crank pulley bolt , turn it a few turns ( 10 mm out ) put the gear puller in place once it becomes loose take the big bolt out and the pulley will come out then . do it up the same way torque it to 142 - 152 nm but dont worry u wont break it in a hurry .

there is only 1 tensioner and 1 idler pulley , u have to take the tensioner off ( its easier to remove the belt ) . when u put back together ( tensioner and spring ) make sure u put everything back the way they were in there before . if u do a search u'll find an old post ( i put up a while ago )on how they go back .

once u take the bottom pulley off u'll see the marl on the gear , make sure u line that up with the mark on the housing there and the cam pulley marks should line up . tensioner bolt shoulb be done with a torque rench as well and make sure u put the sping bake the way it was there before

i'm after a passengers side headlight for r33 s 1 . it can be gts or gtr scratches on the front plastic ok as long as its not cracked , i'll consider broken brackets as long as they are still there . post here , pm or phone 0408973245 .

cobo 11 , ur box will last for a long time unless the noise gets a lot worse . if u lull the box down u should change all the bearings and inspect all gears and syncros at the same time . bearings are very cheap u buy them for a bearing shop , not nissan ( same bearings, nissan dont make bearings ) . syncros and gears are very expensive however u would know if they are worn or broken teeth ( in the case of gears ). bearings and front and rear seals would be less that $100 but u r looking at about 8-10 hours labour ( r+r box clean and pull the box appart ) so its not cheap and while u have the box out u probably want to replace the clutch as well .

it sounds like its the bearing on the input shaft in yr gearbox dude , when u put ur foot on the clutch it doesnt turn so the noise stops . if its only minor i wouldnt wory about it but if it gets worse u have to replace it .

put the air cond on and it should go on , thats the only time it will be on u have the clutch fan to cool the radiator .

i can get it for 140 $ + gst =154 for 20 lt plastic drums thats = $ 38.50 for 5 lt so if anyone is interested let me know , i dont need any for about a month so thats when i'll be ordering it . i'm in the hills district

same way as u get rid of it now put it in a container and take it to u r local servo they put it in a big container and people come and colect it then recycle it . do u want 5w-40 or 15w-50 ?

do u have the day night mirror ? if yes how much for it ?

black33 it can be done but u'll always see it and as time goes on it will get worse and if u try to buf it it will get worse . the proper way to do it is to paint the whole panel .

hi jimx , i was using mobil 1 for years but i only have 10 ltrs left and its to expensive now so i'm looking at shell helix ultra 9 fully synthetic ) if u r interested i'll check the price and let u know how much i can get it for but it will have to be in 20lt drums .

yea it is fairly common . very easy to get it out as long as u can get to it the ones near the front are easy to get to on the car , dont know about the last one or 2 though . i use an easyout to get them out , 1 k $ thats very expensive if u dont have to have the cil head out . the studs are about 2-3 $ each from nissan

if u do that how are u going to get the shavings out that will be left stuck on the tread ? if i was going to use a tap i would put a rag inside the the cil and leave the last bit on the botton of the tread , when i finish the job blow compressed air in the hole so shavings will come out then carefully ( using a long nose or simmilar ) pull the rag out and hopefully no shavings drop in the cil .

tnx zero i'll pass it on, as its not for me and i'll let u know . where abouts in sydney are u ?

how much do u want for the fan zero ? i maybe interested if not cracked and u can keep the clutch .

u need a hairdryer , warm the film on the whole window u want to do when hot start from 1 corner and peel the whole window , it should be very easy once hot . u'll have a lot of gum left on the glass the best way to remove that is thinners or grease +wax remover try not to get it on the rubers , it should take 20 min a window to do a good job finish the job with a window cleaner . now the hard part , the rear window u have to be carefull not to damage the demister , always pull the film across not up and down if u take care it shoulb be ok . keep in mind that window tinters will not guarantee the demister if the take old tint off.