wrxhoon

u would never know when the pump is going to pack it but usualy they detiriorate over time although they can just go . keep an eye on your pressure gauge . remember u dont need high pressure to lubricate the engine u need the volume ( its more important than pressure ) and remember the pump has apressure release valve when it reaches a pre set pressure it lets the pessure go so it dont go any higher . on most engines thats about 80 psi but even 30 -40 is enough to keep u r engine healthy as long as the volume is there . i dont know of any upgrades on the oil pumps for rb25s or that the pumps are theit weekness . but remember if the pump stops pumping its only a matter of minutes and the engine is terminaly damaged . ( even 1 minute will stuff up your big ends ) on rb engines number 6 big end will go first . if u race rb26's u need extra baffles in the sump cause as the oil moves around the pick up will run dry and goodbye engine .

the engine is not designed to idle , not having any load on , so when its not under load no pressure on the pistons or rings thats why it will glaze . believe me there is no advantage to idle u r engine to warm it up maybe ok for a minute or 2 definatly no more just drive off and take it easy until it warms up . siting there idling it will take a lot longer to warm up as there is no load .the engine is not as eficient when cold cause its designed to run hot the hotter the more efficient it will run thats the reason u have a thermostat so it will warm up quick . if the materials used in the engine could tolerate higher temps they would tun them a lot hotter . ron if u want to sit there idling u r engine for 10 minutes every time u start it then do it but dont think u r helping it cause u r doing it more harm than good . its like some people when they run their engines in they think that they should drive under 80 kmh and very low rpm all the time . thats wrong too the rings will vever bed in promply like that .

i hope u guys realise that idling ur engine for long periods will not help ur engine last longer . have u ever heard of cil bore glazing ? thets what happens if u idle it for long periods . if u want to sit in the car for 1-2 minutes thats fine but idling for 10 minutes every day its a sure way to glaze the bore .

are u sure ur radiator cap is the right pressure ? have u had it checked ?if u dont have a leak somewhere ( my guess is that u have ) then the cap is not the correct pressure so it lets the coolant out in to the bottle and then it goes out through the overlfow . u say the bottle is bone dry what about the radiator ? when the engine is cold check that as well . the bottle in the coolong system is there to take the coolant when its very hot and it expands then it gets sucked in the radiator when it cools down again . if u didnt have the bottle there u would have to top up the radiator like every week .

crooser just in case u didnt know the g/box turns while the engine is running and the car stationaryas long as u dont have the clutch pedal to the floor , thats the only time the box is not turning . redline gtir oil starts circulating the minute u start the engine if it didnt u r engine wont last long . i take it easy when i first start the engine though , never any amount of boost until the coolant temp goes to normal , for the oil temp to get to normal it could take up to 30 minutes though and the harder u drive the hoter the oil will get . u dont have to have oil temp to 140 to give it hard on full boost or high rpm though but when it comes to turning it off then u must make sure u cool it down a little like driving with no boost or idling it at home for a 2-3 minutes , that way ur turbo will leve longer . demon dave the turbo line is always full of oil so as soon as u start the engine u got oil circulating the last to get oil runing are the cams and the valve stems . nismo 34 thats fine but it usualy takes that long to back out of the drive so as long as u dont have to back up a steep drive ( puting load on the engine ) u can start and back out . mark r33 sure drive at low rpm say to 3- 3500 but more impotantly dont load u r engine ( high gear and low rpm ) until it warms up . one part of the engine that doesnt get lubricated when u first start is the cil bore thats when most of the wear happens when u first start it ( the first 30 - 60 seconds ) even if i've been driving along heavy traffic when i stop the car i always idle the engine for a few seconds before turning off .

i wouldnt use a mech oil pressure gauge if the line burst in the engine bay and u r not looking on the gauge all the time its goodbye engine , it doesnt long when u hear the bearings knock its to late . like redline gtr said its illegal as well to have oil line in the cab .

i always do then on the floor with the car on 4 stands , i did the gtr i just use a trolley jack heavy but not hard it helps if u have somei=one to help u though to steady the box on the jack . when i did a landcruiser ( very heavy ) i chained the box on the jack so it wouldnt twist . robo's i use old input shafts to line mine but u can buy a tool if u want from supercheap or other retailers ( not expensive ). robo's does u r r33 have a push or pull clutch ? r33 gtr is a pull clutch .

if u use 33% usualy 3 years i do mine every 2 years on all my cars and its always very clean . when i let the old one out i flash the system , undo the bottom of the radiator and the screw on the engine block so it lets all of the old coolant out flash it with clean water blow all water out then fill it up again .

why do u sit there warming u r car ? u can do that while u r driving there is no need to pre warm it just take it easy until u rech normal operating temp and it will be fine .

if u r cooling system is 100% u shouldnt have to top up fo r a year or so but in the long run u could loose a little like 1/2 lt in in a couple of years . dont overfill though ur waisting coolant thats all , just fill the radiator to the top and the bottle to the max mark . if u flshed u r system when u refilling fill to the top ( radiator ) bottle to max run the car to normal temp let it cool down then fill again to the above levels , run to normal temp cool down and check again this time it should be full .

u need a boost controler or a bleed valve

the voltage reg is built in the alternator , an auto electrician will usualy sell u a reco alternator regardles were u have a crook reg or alt . the diodes in the alt maybe the prob or volt reg . go to an auto electrician and he will check it for u , u may have a crook multimeter , one way to find out check the voltage on the battery engine not running then check again engine running notice the diff it should be 1/2 to 1 volt if battery is fully charged

guys , if u fill the bottle above the max mark u'll loose it very quick form the overflow on the bottle itself ( the bottle has an overlow ) .u should fill the radiator to the top and the bottle should be between the nin and max mark . nrage33 if u loose coolant form the overflow u should be able to see it in the engine bay area ., as for steam ( not smoke though ) coming out of the exhaust especialy when the outside temp is very cold thats normal in any car new or old until the cold exhaust pipes get to normal temp u 'll see plenty of steam clouds of it when very cold .once the ex pipe gets hot no more steam . the hot exhaust air hits the cold pipe and u have steam , u'll notice when u start the engine the steam will start a few seconds after as soon as hot exhaust comes out the next couple of minutes more steam heaps more and then will start to lessen until it all goes .

that would vary from car to car , ive done up to 50 km on the gtr and havent run out yet or surge for that matter . jimx , if u got rubish in the tank they always float around and u r more likely to pick up if u has a very small amount of fuel in the tank cause there is les fuel in there not because they are on the bottom . u r right in saying that u have a filter in the pick up and a fuel filter in the engine bay as well so if u have rubish in the tank u r going to pick some up . most will be blocked by the strainer in the tank , some very fine will escape but the fuel filter will them pick up .

u r globe maybe burnt out , or u havent run low enough

if u cant see where the coolant is going u may have a cracked head and it goes to the exhaust manifold .have u r radiator cap pressure tested it may come out of there to the overflow and u dont see it cause it only does it while very hot .

wrxetr, take the heater tank out and take it to a radiator repairer , if its coroded he maybe able to get a new core to match then he uses ur tank and puts the new core and its as good as new as for r+r heater tank i dont know how hard it is on the sky , u may have to have the dash out though to get to it , most cars u do .

padboy by all means buy the paint to do small touch ups with a very fine brush , u will always see it though but better than having the chips or a small scratch there . if u wnt a proper job done take it to a pro ( unless u done it before ) and have the whole panel pained , i hope that clears this up for u . jimx a good painter will match the paint to the old one it doent matter of the age . its not going to be the same colour thats why u blend it in . iven if its the same paint u put on the car the day before and another person paints the panel next to it with that same paint chances are that it will be diff ( like darker or lighter ) the diff u'll see where the panels join.thats the reason when u repair the whole say front door u blend in the rear door and the guard . so u paint full colout the repaired door then full colour the front guard near where the door joins and as u go forward the u put less paint until at the end and near the bonnet no paint at all . u do the same with the rear door then u put a clear coat on the 2 doors and the guard . if the colour was close u can never see the diff as it is blende in with the original paint , got it ? believe me i have done plenty of them , metalics are easy to match cause u can blend u cant do that with solid colous though .

if u dont have any lip at all that means the bore is ok . with time the rings will mark the bore again of course it all depends how deep they are and we are talking about 1 or 2/100 of a mm here .u shouldnt loose compession though unless its like 5/100 of a mm deep cause the engine oil takes that up . are they all the same ? any piston slap ? try moving the pistons left to right when they are at the top of the cil and see how much they move . as u have an rb 25 sump its very easy to take it off pull the pistons out , hone the bore out and put new rings in ( rings are only $200 a set or even less ) and while the head is off its ony a few more hours work .

padboy if u want to get the right colour paint for ur car go to vg paints at girraween . u need to take with u the colour code ( u 'll find on the cars id plate under the bonnet ) and ur fuel filler door , ask for acrylic paint they will mix the paint for u and for a small fee will match it as well ( i/2 lt mix and match silver is $25 - 30 ) u can use the paint to touch up u r scratches and stone chips . if u want to paint a panel if u never done it before dont try u will stuff it up . jimx when a pro paints a panel and blends ( u can only blend metalic paint ) u should never notice the diff in the colour if u do its not a good job , i have done plenty and u can never see the diff but metalic paint u have to blend and then u give it a coat of clear to cover the whole panel . when it comes to painting i/4 panels is more difficult cause u cant paint the whole panel u have to blow it off in to the edge of the roof and as the paint gets a bit old u 'll see where they blow it off , if u try to buf it there it will get worse the more u buf the more u 'll see it . the guys that do touch up jobs its crap u try to polish there and u'll see an edge the more u polish the worse it gets thats why u paint full panels thats the proper way of doing it touching up is like cheating if u want to sell the car .

thats the marks from the rings ( compression ) as the piston goes up and down . if u can feel them when u run u r nail across them u should hone the bore out and put new rings . usualy the bore on rb26 's lasts a long time if the engine is fairly stock ( like 200-300 k k's ) .the other thing to look for is the lip on top of cilinder if there is a lip its a good idea to do the bottom end now rather than have to pull it apart again . the only problem is u cant pull the sump off the rb26 off while the engine is in the car u have to remove it from the car to do it . the front diff housing is part of the sump . unless u have an rb 26 in some car other than a gtr and u se a different sump ( rb 25 sump for instance )

stephen , the tools u use to extract the studs are called easyout. u must drill the right size hole it tells u on the easyout bit put the easyout in the hole turn anticlockwise and out she comes . u 'll find if u dont touch these studs they wont break but when people take manifold off they usualy do them to tight so they break soon after . dont forget that they get very hot and then cold so they become brittle too.

there is no cgt on cars however if its written down value is $16 and u sell for more ( say 18 k ) u pay normal income tax on the 2k , if u sell for 14 k u deduct the 2 k loss from u r income so less tax . u dont tell the ato what u r car is worth every year either , this is how u work out its value . full purchase price and u depriciate it 22.5 % every year , if u bought today for 20 k in three years its value ( for tax purporses ) it will be $9309 . what some people do ( i'm not saying that u should do this its not moral or legal )say sell the car for $12k get the buyer to pay a cheque for 9 k and 3 k cash , the pocket the 3 k and no one knows .

joel i can assure u the break very easy cause people overtighten them ( u must use a torque rench ) and they get brittle cause they get very hot then cool down and again and again , its very common with the skyline ( broken exhaut manifold studs )

thats what i said before if u want to pull the clutch out ( good idea while the box is down ) to inspect and maybe change it if half or more worn then u have to line it up so u can put the box back up .if u dont line it up the box will never go back .once u have the box down undo all the bolts that hold the clutch assembly and pull the clutch pressure plate off . have a look at the clutch plate for wear and if 1/2 worn u need to get a clutch kit ( new clutch plate , new or rebuild pressure plate , new thrust bearing and a new spiggot bush or bearing ( not sure if ur car has bush or bearing ). i would take the flywheel off and get it machined ( 30-40 $ ). install the spiggot then flywheel ( i always use locktite on the bolts ) then the pressure plate with clutch ( make sure u put the clutch plate the right way )use locktite on the pressure plate bolts . before u do the pressure plate tight u line up the spine of the clutch plate to make sure its in the middle its got to be spot on ( u can buy a tool to do that ) i have old g/box input shafts to line up my clutches . as long as its lining up when u lift the g/box up threre it will go in u just turn the box left to right a little so spline of the shaft doesnt hit the clutch spline and u r sweet .if it doesnt line up it wont go cause the pressure plate presses the clutch plate hard and it wont move . i hope it this helps u , by the way u r lucky it has a push clutch and not a pull one . as for machining the flywheel have a look if it hasnt got burn marks ( if u drive like a grany it may not ) then dont worry but i always do it . if got another clutch with the new box that u r instaling check it out if nearly new use it if not dont risk it . u can get a new clutch kit for u r car for 200 - 250 ( stock )