wrxhoon

metbluegtst how do u know u r odo hasnt been wound back ? i dont think there is an import that hasnt . even local cars have been wound back . wld 747 easy to take the cluster out but u will stuff it up if u try o fix the odo take it to an instrument specialist . u dont have to take the steering column shroud of u can pull it out with out taking that off . 1st u take the ashtray out , then 2 ( i think ) screws that hold the stereo cluster suround and another 2 above the steering column the rest is held in by clips but double check that there is not any more screws . once u pull that off( u have to undo the electrical plugs ) then u 'll see the 4 screws that hold the cluster in take them out , pull the cluster out a little undo the plugs at the back (3or 4 i think )then u should be able to pull it out , u have to rigle it a bit and find the best side to take it out , i think to the left of the steering .

nissan hornsby are very helpfull guys , i have dealt with them a number of times , as for prices they are all simmilar although i get trade prices . most nissan dealers will do imports now .

the best thing to do is drill the thread out and retap it bigger size then u have to get a bigger plug . u should be able to do that on the car after u drain the oil , use a magnet to colect all the metal shavings from the sump ( very important ).

i wouldnt use any nulon crap to flush my engine , if the oil is black changed more often . dont remove the sump just to clean it unlees its leaking leave it alone . any goon sealant will do the job but u have to clean the old one good first . if u want to use the one on it now u can buy it from nissan . if the manifold is not leaking just use an easyout to pull the broken studs out and replace them only .( carefull not to drill to deep u 'll put a whole in the head ). use z145a filter dont use the little one ( its ok for the sr20 cause not as much oil goes through it ) u can get any parts u want from nissan dealers ( dont know about country ones though ) shell ultra 5w-40 is good oil to use in the sky , change it every 5k k's and ur engine will stay clean , i use it in the gtr and when i do an oil change the oil is still very clean ( 4 k k's )

silverskyline the slave cil is not inside the g/box , its on the outside on the bellhousing .whatever u do never spray any lube on the cluch or pressure plate cause that will make it slip. u can lubricate the pedal and fork and the thrust bearing if u could get to it but as it is inside the bellhousing u have to remove the g/box to do it and if u do that u may as well put a new clutch , pressure plate thrust and spiggott bush and while u r at it machine the flywheel too .

the standard gasket is ok unless u r running huge boost 18-20 psi + and u couldnt do that with stock turbo on a rb25 det . i had a gtir and was running 20psi on stock h/gasket without any probs . u dont need any special tools to do a h/gasket as long as u have a torque rench and nornal hand tools . where abouts are u in sydney ? i may be able to lend u whatever u havent got if u like . how much boost are u running ? stock turbo ?

sorry couldnt tell u cause i do all the work on my cars myself , i dont take them anywhere . i had a problem with my rex the brent keypad imobiliser played up it was under waranty , i took it to subaru parramatta and when i got it back they left all the screws of the dash undone 2 weeks later when i was cleaning the car i realised then when i looked in the centre console the left all the clips out thats the kind or work they do ! another time a while ago we took a car to change the steering rack ( leaking ) under waranty and they didnt put the split pins on the tie rods lucky i checked otherwise i could have lost steering while driving . i only ever take cars back for waranty work , even when under waranty i do my own service work that way i know its done . the reason i said $500 a bit high cause cil head r+r is about 4 hours work if u know what u r doing so $120 per hour a bit high i thought $70 -80 would be more like it .

if thats what the problem is it should work .if u have to buy the locktite get the red one for studs a cant remember the number of hand , just ask for studs and its red not blue .by the way its not cheap either like $20 for a little bottle but u only need a very small amount . i hope it works for u .

price is a little high for labour at $500 .as for a metal head gasket it depends on how much boost u want to run up to about 18 psi is ok on the stock gasket . to be 100% sure where the coolant is coming from u have to pressurise the the radiator and wach it coming out cause it could be coming from anywhere around that area .

u can get it from nissan hornsby . u can get anything u want for any skyline if not in stock they will get for u from japan takes about a week and they dont charge for freight .

if theradiator cap is leaking the coolant would come out on the radiator pushead and not on the cil head .

take that bolt out then ,clean all the oil from that area if u dont have compressed air try to fit a tube in the hole and fix it somehow so it doesnt leak ( the tube ) blow or suck at the other end of the tube if air flows u drilled to far into the cil head and oil works its way through the thread ,if thats the case get some locktite put it on the tread of the bolt u are using ( i hope its stainless otherwise u wont be able to get out in say 1 years time ) then screw the bolt back in wait for the locktite to harden say 1 hour and it would probably fix your prob. when u pull the bolt out put a very thin screwdriver ( thiner then the drill u used ) in the hole if it goes in a long way u drilled to far in .

of course its not good but i'm not convinced that u have low compression i think its incorect measurement or the comp gauge not reading right . low comp=lower power at the same boost as if u had higher comp

standard compression for rb25det is 1.2mpa (12.2kg/cm2)or 171 psi ( apr) limit .9 mpa , 9.2 kg/cm2 or 129 psi . thats at 300 rpm lower rpm = lower comp.variance is 14 psi . rb26 is slightly lower .like 2% lower as it has a lower comp and runs much higher boost . jimbo if urs has a true 125psi u wouldnt have much power unless u run very high boost but i dont think it would be that low . it would be hard to start if it was that low too ( like taking a few cranks to start it .

u can get the head serviced clean ,valve grind, crack test and set the valve clearences ( they are a pain in the rse to set cause they are hydrolic bucket and sim ) for $270 if u take the cil head to them . then u need a vrs gasket set about $ 200 from nissan then the labour to r+r the cil head at $500 i think a bit high u say u changed the head gasket 50k ( u mean 50k k's i hope and not just 50k's ) i maybe a cracked head u wont know until it comes out .

as far as i remember that should be a stud in to the head and a stainles nut with a thick washer , the washer is there so the nut can be tightened and cause the hole in the manifold is big so the man is easy to install .people brake these studs cause they do them to tight, u should use a torque rench to do them up and start from the middle and work ur way to the outer nuts otherwise u may warp the manifold .when u undo them u undo the outer ones first and work u r way to the middle .

there is no oil in the exhaust manifold dude , it must be leaking from somewhere else like rocker cover .theonly thing that comes out of the ex manifold is exhaust so if it was leaking there would be black around it .when u drilled the bolt to install u r easyout did u drill to far in to the head maybe ?if u did that may explain the oil . pull the bolt out and blow compressed air in the hole to see if it goes in to the head if it does thats u r prob , if it doesnt look elsewhere for the oil leak.

how do u know that the compression was 125? are u sure that the gauge is correct ? if they are all 125 the gauge mynot be right or the engine not normal temp .to check if its bottom end prob ( warn rings or pistons ) do a compression test note the comp on all cil then squirt a small amount of oil in the cil crank a few times then check comp again if it raises say by 10 psi or more u have bottom end prob ( warn rings more than likely )if it doest rise it means warn top end ( valves or valve seats ). the other way is to do a cil leakage test , this is how u do it : spark plug out install i tube with a threaded bit at the end that screws in to the spark plug hole car in gear handbrake on then put compressed air in to cil (150 psi ) and listen far air leaking ( bottom end or top end ) . note most of the time if engine runs good makes good power doest use a lot of oil and u find low compression ( but all cil the same ) its your gauge or the method u are using not correct so dont panic if all the above are right .

there is a few colours available ready to buy but if u go to a paint shop any colour u want .

what some importers do is put new tyres on to get them registered then take them off and put back the ones that came with from japan . some have a spare set of wheels then do the swap. as for the dimmer switch it only dimms it wont brighten so if u dont want to dim u take out it will always be the brightest by joining the wires .

no just normal spaner or socket . the alt belt u loosen the alt so u can move it in to remove the air cond same whaen u tighten them make sure they are not to tight as long as they dont squeel that is tight enough.

if u think it maybe the alt , take the belt off if it stops well thats it then if it doesn't then u know its not the alt . but u should be able to tell the alt bearing noise is diff to the starter gear noise ..

only personal imports dont have to have it . all low volume imports have to have one as well as new belts , tyres , oil . oil filter and brake fluid . u have to have child restrains ( some of them just hook them on the rear speaker grills , great huh ) and high mount rear brake light if not fitted .

sledge is spot on , thats the likekly cause the starter drive but if u go to an auto electrician they will just sell u a reco starter on an exchange .

u can only get a workshop manual for r32gtr ( they sold them here ) .the only other workshop manuals u can get in english are engine only for R33 and R34 they cover all engines used in those models . u can get a soft cover for r33 for around $230 in sydney