wrxhoon

its normal , the turbo is not big enough to hold boost at high revs . the higher the rpm the more air it has to pump thats way u get a drop in boost , if u can hold max boost at 6000 u r doing well .

u may have a cut wire somewhere . put u r lights on and use a test light to see if u have power there ( both high and low beam ) if u dont have power there try to trace the wires , if cant do that u may have to run new wires .

rex but i take the gtr out as well

what about cv's especialy if its 4wd maybe front cv's dry

mildman u r right cause it only takes a few secs to run the 1/4 . circuit racing u have more g forces , both braking and eccelarating , for prolong periods . i have seen afew rb26's that have spun no 6 on the track though

how do u know when u have just the right amount if u dont undo the level -filler plug ?? how do u check the level if u dont undo the plug when u do normal minor service ?

guys, the best way to fill it up is : after u drain it from the bottom plug put that plug back then take the filler -level plug out on side of the b/box and use a pump to fill it up ( i use compressed air to pump it up there ). if u want to get to it from the top this is how the gear stick comes out . take the trim mould off , gearknob off , boot off , ( u need new cable tie to put back )then there is a c-clip that u have to take off ( u need a long nose to sqeeze it )once u take that off the gear stick just comes out . warning here though u won't know when its full unless the filler -level pug is out but even then if u fill from there i'm not sure that it will go in to the box on gtrs 4wd 's it won't, it will end up in the trasfer case . don't bother doing it this way besides u should be able to take the plug out so u can check the level everytime u do a service so u must be able to take the plug out . u need a long wrentch ( like 300 mm ) with a 1/2 inch drive ( or maybe 3/8 cant remember ) its shouldn't be that tight i never have any trouble undoing it .

hey , i hope u know that rb26 -r32 crank and rb26-r33 are not the same !!

u should change it every 5000 k's ( nissan recomends every 10 or 6 months , dont forget that time detetiorates oil too case of condentation especialy if u park u r car out at night and it gets very cold . if u race the car u should change more often .

there are 2 knock sensors on the block under the inlet manifold . one is near the front and 1 near the back of the block .u cant adjust the sensors , maybe they had some dirt on them and he cleaned them .

platinum and iridum plugs are better cause the tip is only .6 mm and u get much better spark . the reson the nickel plugs tip is thicker is cause if they made it that thin it would only last a few k's platinum and especialy iridium are much harder so last a lot longer . typical life , nickel 30k k's , platinum 100 , iridium 150. probably less in a turbo gtr driving it hard less still but still 5 times longer than nickel .

the rotors only need to be warped a fraction of a mm and the car may chake under light braking when u put more pressure on the pedal it will usualy ( but not nececery ) stop shaking , also it may not do it as much when the brakes are cold .

yeah thats true they should last 150 k k's and 100 k k's for platinum

they are not the same but i believe they will fit but not 100% sure ( i've been told they will)

maybe not give them a ring on monday . i know r32 and r33 rb26's use the same though but that doesnt help u .

i dont have a listing for a rb25 as it wasnt sold here u'll have to ring ngk and ask them ( they dont list in their website rb25's) u r right u ll have to get the right length and heat range , if u give ngk a ring they should be able to tell u .

u r brake rotors are warped dude take them to a shop to machine them and it will stop .u'll find it does it worse down a long hill when u aply the brakes slightly when u brake hard it wont do it as much if at all.

u should be able to get them cheaper than $21 around 16- 18 each in sydney

when lights are on cause the alt is loading up the revs drop as simple as that . normaly u r computer will pick it up and increase the revs to compansate just like when u put the air cond on so u may have some prob with the idle speed .

i dont let anyone jack my car up from the rails or sill panels . when i buy tyres i tell them the only place to jack it up from is the diff from rear and the crossmember under the engine from the front . i also tell them they cant use a rattle gun to undo or do up the wheel nuts , if they dont want to do it i do it myself . u'll find that rattle guns mark the chrome nuts and some idiots do them to tight and snap the studs . or they are done very tight the studs are stressed and they break next time u undo them .

using platinum or iridum they can have a very fine tip witch produces a better spark . u can have a fine tip with standard nickel but the life expectancy would be very short thats the reason the nickel tips are much bigger ( longer life )the platinum on the tip doesnt burn as easy so it lasts much longerand iridium longer still ( they claim iridium give a better spark as well . i wouldnt use nickel on any of my cars , i only use platinum but next time i'll try iridium as they are only $2 more .

the only ngk plugs specified for a r33 gtr are platinum or iridium no copper ( i'm sure u can find copper though but wouldnt last )and the diff in price is only $2 , iridiums last a bit longer , i dont know that they are any better though .

passenger side

easy to get out , i use a long nose to put back in its very easy .

thats the usual prob if it flashes quicker , globe gone or bad connection , if the unit is stuffed u would have the prob on either side so i would check all globes on that side and clean the connectors before i bought the new unit .