wrxhoon

most degreasers have acid in them continued use may damadge ur paintwork .

na_r33 if u replace the h/light , i may be interested in y r old one , mine is cracked

thicker oil will give u more pressure cause u have more resistance stephen . as i said before pressure will vary depending how hot the oil is and oil takes a long time to get hot unlike coolant that gets hot quick .if u have an oil temp gauge u will notice that . normal driving after about 1/2 hour it gets to about 110 degrees, if u race the car it will get up to 150 degrees .

i dont know whats going on with the pms bryce ( i didnt get yours either ) as soon as i get the address of the transport co i'll drop them of there for u . i shoould be able to do it today for u as long as i get it early enough , i dont want to get stuck in the late afternoon traffic . i hope u r happy with the wheels . let me know if u want the original receipt if u do i'll find it and send it to u too. next time i'm in mackay i'll look out for your car !!! cheers , jerry

the oil pressure switch is located on the oil filter bracket .u cant install a gauge on number 6 .h/p is not the problem with the oil pressure , as i said before the prob is when racing the g forces push the oil and the pick up runs dry then no oil .if u r not going to race it no probs .oil pressure light on the dash works from the oil pressure switch which acts as a sender .the reson no 6 goes first is cause its the end of the line .cause pressure gauges are slow to react and cause u dont look at them all the time by the time u see it drop pressure it maybe to late!!! u usualy hear it fist ( the bearings knocking ) there is a co in sydney that makes baffles for the rb 26 i think they are around the $600 and u give them yours ( all they do they put extra baffles in yours ) . jerry

bryce u have pm with my address , cheers , jerry

mildman u r right the only complete manual u can buy in english is the R32 gtr nissan but u can get it for about $500 in sydney . it covers gtr only . why do u want a complete manual what do u want to check , i maybe able to help u .

mildman u r right if u race rb26's and u dont put extra baffles in the sump thats where u 'll have the problem in no 6 big end bearing . the pump will surge and first u'll kill no 6 the end of the line . they dont have probs with the oil pumps though just the pick up running dry .

u dont need high pressure to protect u r engine u need volume . at iddle speed 7.5 psi is o k thats like .6 on your gauge

u r very lucky petre that u replaced it now cause when the get loose they may jump a tooth and then they break !!!!!. i usualy check the bearings and if the ok i leave them if not i either repack or replace but a noisy bearing is not going to kill u r engine a belt will . when u buy a second hand car u dont know how old the belt is or how many k's its done ( age kills them as well as use ) so its safer to change it or at least inspect it but if u r going to inspect u may as well change it . bl4ck32 if u want to know something about u r rebuild let me know and i will help i have rebuild 3 rb 26's never rebuild a rb 25 or 20 but they are simmilar . cheers , jerry

i posted the oil pressure specs on another post have a look there for ur car . remember that pressure will be higher when cold ( oil is thicker) and if u use thin oil it will be lower .that will explain the reson ur pressure was lower after driving hard oil temp would be very high .at idle speed between 0-2 is normal when hot .around 4 is normal just cruising along at 2-3000 rpm ( hot oil ) but remember the oil takes a lot longer to get hot ( normal temp ) than the coolant .coolant temp goes to normal after 3-5 minutes oil may take 30 min .

engine oil pressures are as follows :rb25de idling (650rpm )1.0kg/cm, 2000 rpm3.3 , 6000 rmp 5.3 . rb25det 1.0 , 3.5 , and 5.6 . rb 26 dett idle ( 950 rpm )1.5 , 2000 3.0, 6000 4.6 . a lot of gauges are not reading right as well as crook senders , to be sure u have to install a gauge that u know is right . when the oil is cold u always going to have higher oil pressure , always check at normal operating temp.. by the way i use shell ultra 5w 40 ( cause i can buy it cheap $ 39 ) i use to use mobil 1 but its to expensive now so i swiched to shell .

r33gt , true if u have a profesional timing light that u just atouch it to the outside of wire , most cheap ones dont pick up unlees u actualy touch the naked wire .

peter i'm glad u did the job and happy to be able to help . sorry about the size of the bolt head it must be the RB 26 that is 30mm as for the 6 mm bolts the reason a said to screw them in a fair bit is that u may strip the thread . now u may have to check the timing with a timing light cause u moved the crank angle sensor . i always use genune timing belt , not sure of the aftermarket . i think i get the rb belts for about $80 but thats trade price so $100 sounds right for retail. BL4kc32 thats a good reason to do it yourself cause a lot of workshops use 18 yo kids to do the work and they dont care , as long as u take ur time and know what u r doing or have someone that knows ( did it before ) u'll be fine . u should never atempt to do it if u dont know though cause as u know u can stuff up ur engine . cheers , jerry

not hard to use but hard to get a cheap one for the skyline . u connect the timing light to battery then the other wire u have to connect to no 1 spark plug ( thats the hard bit u have to take the coil off and put the wire between the spark plug and the coil pack make sure spark want jump across to rocker cover ) then u start the engine point the light on the crank pulley where the timing marks are press the trigger the light will now flash every time no 1 fires and u'll see the timing mark then adjust it to suit . u can bye cheap timing lights from auto shops but u may have to modify to fit it to u r skyline .

the other one i can think of is : bookworks in sydney ph 97406766.

thats way u do it with a timing light then u know exacly what u r doing . so u set to specs 1 st then u play around with it depends on the fuel u use

try motortraders in sydney ph 99795833 (02)

thats the crank angle sensor that adjusts the timing. do do it right u need a timing light so u can adjust it to specs . trial end error like mildman did is 2nd best option but carefull cause if u advance to much u risk detonation and maybe a blown piston to little and it will be gutless. the specs are . rb 25 15deg+/-2 @650rpm +/-50 and rb26 21deg =/-1 @950 rpm +-50 . generaly speaking u can advance it a little more like 2-5 deg without it pinging but next time u get fuel ( octane varies ) it may ping so be alert !! pinging is risky .

just use a good polish or a polish cleaner , then wax and next time it will be easier to remove . if u r pipe is a little short u 'll get it on all the time ,if the pipe is in line with the end of the b-bar ( legal ) u wont get as much .

randymoss u have mail . birty u have pm

r33 its only engine , r32 i think they do both

no it doesn't sound like fuel to me if it was fuel u wouldn't be able to go hard like under load at high rpm unles the pump plays up u can check that easy though . when it stalls on u check fuel pressure then before u turn the ignition back on if u have plenty pressure its not the pump.

i have a set of csa pursuit ( australian made ) silver . 17x8 , 5 stud ,114.3 pcd will fit skylines 200sx's and most 5 stud jap cars ( not subarus ). they have 235x45x17 falkens , 2 have 90% tread other 2 70% . the wheels are unmarked ( 1st set of tyres on them )paid $1700 for them ( australias best) still have the receipt. looking for $800 . the wheels alone retail for over $300 each . i dont have any pics but there is a link www.mullins.com.au

are they leather or vinyl ?