wrxhoon

not i the market for one but it sounds a very nice ride . good luck with the sale dude

i think he wants to know where it is . u have to get under the car look on the side of the box it should be on the drivers side a plug that u can fit a 1/2 inch square drive , half way up in the box . undo that and if the oil doesn't run out put u r fingure in it it should be very close to the top , if not fill it until it runs out . there is another plug on the bottom of the box same size thats the one u drain it out from .

its not hard to remove look under the mirror it should have 2-3 bolts undo them and its out but u may have to undo the bolts inside the car as well not sure but take the little trim off on the inside and see there should be 2- 3 there as well .

mickGTR ,i was generalising when i said about the odos . if u know the car from new all its history then u know how many ks its done but as a rule the imports are turned back take it from me i know they are and u cant check the history cause noone will give u logs . i have an r33 and i got the jap logs cause i bought it from the original owner , he owned it in japan then brought it to aus with the original owners book and logs . as to u r problem it could be anything but loosing boost shouldn't make it drop to 1000 rpm . having low compression wouldn't do that either its electrical more than likely .by the way what was u r compression? it should be 1.18 mpa (165psi ) at 300rpm

i use shell fully synthetic mainly cause i can buy it cheap , most companys make good synthetic oils these days . on the r33 gtr i use 75-90 u could use the same in the gts .

they dont replace the clusters ( extra expence ) the just turn them back usualy before they come in and almost always before they put them up for sale . dont forget cars have a hard time in japan too .they dont do as many k's as they do here but always in traffic and not always seviced either. i've had a few jap engines apart with lopw k's and they have plenty sludge inside , something u dont see in australian engines with very high k's like 300-400 k k's and the are still clean . most peple here change the oil at least every 10 k k's and a lot of them use good oils .

u can adjust the pedal as well if u dont like it down low but its bettre low that way u cant ride it .

yea i got it , is that with complance ?cause for $75 k u can get one already registered here

i havent had the door jam plug off on the skyline but from past experience they are a bitch to pull off , if u cant get it off run another wire like they do when they fit alarms

peter i think i put up everything u need to know about tensioning the belt . when u have it out if u get stuck ill pm my phone number and u can ring me or sms . when u take the covers off before u take the belt off put the engine on top dead centre that is line ur timing marks spot on . once the belt is out dont turn the engine ( u may bend a valve or 2 if u turn it hard ). when all the covers are off loosen the tension pulley nut ( thats the pulley on the inlet side , drivers side )then u should be able to remove the belt u dont have to remove cam gears like some other engines .i think i got the rest on previous posts .when u put the belt on make sure all marks are lining up spot on one tooth out and u r stuffed then adjust the tension then turn the engine a few times ( from crank pulley bolt is easy , insall the bolt temperaly ) to make sure valves dont hit and check to make sure that the timing marks still line up. when u put the crank angle sensor back make sure the o ring is ok ( if not change it )and put a smear of rubber grease( normal grease will do if u dont have rubber grease ) so it will slide in easy . good luck with it peter , regards , jerry

redlineGTR use a wire brush or a disk sander to clean it off if its to much work use acid ( the exhaust will be off the car ) . u can get hi temp paint but its expensive !! like $50 for 1/2 a litre ( thats all u 'll need ) if u have a spay gun spray it on if u dont u can buy it in aerosol can but more expensive . hi heat paint will last a long time if u clean the metal well first .

u should be able to change ur heater hoses without removing the manifold , i haven't looked in the gtst but i have done it in the r33gtr its hard to get to but doable . if the hose doesn't have sharp bend in it u may be able to use normal straight hose but if its short and with 90 degree bend u may have to get it from nissan or u may be able to get it from auto 1 , supercheap or other aftermarket resellerl

i never had a skyline mirror apart but electric mirrors have 2 small electric motors one for in -out other for up-down . u take the mirror off the car and take it apart then u'll see them they are very small . sometimes they have bad connection , check that spray some wd40 and test the motors on a 12 volt battery if they work then look for damaged wires .

everyone should know that imports have been turned back and in japan not many people service their cars . thats why u see a 12 yo car with 10-50 k k's

someone makes them for nissan and other car companies so i'm sure u can get aftermarket as good as original but u have to know what to buy if not sure use gen belt.

got a set of 17x8s , they are csa pursuit , i dont have any pics but u can go to www.mullins .com.au and look for pursuit . they have 235x45x17 falkens 2x90 % 2 x 70 % wheels are unmarked ( 1st set of tyres ) will fit skylines . looking for $900 email [email protected]

jpnz in new zealand do it . u can buy it in aus from bookworks in sydney about $200

i have used non genuine belts in the past , some last the distance and some dont . the nissan belt is short so it should be o k subarus have very long belts and aftermarket belts just dont last . thats the reason i wouldn't use aftermarket unless i knew the company that makes the original belt was the same as the aftermarket , its very costly if it breaks it will bend a few valves on the 6 cil rb engines . my personal opinion , lots of places use aftermarket though .

u have to make sure u put the spring in the correct way otherwise it wont work the way it was designed .only use nissan belt as i dont know who makes them for them not to expensive though about $85 trade , aftermarket not much less

do not adjust an old belt as it will shorten its life . to adjust the tension once u put the belt in place and the timing marks are right ( all lining up , 2 cam gears , and crank pulley )turn the crank clockwise 2 full turns with the tensioner pulley bolt loose then put allen key in the hole so u acn tighten the pulley bolt ( torque 43-58 nmt )and thats it as simple as that , check the tension by pushing on the belt with ur hand ( just in case u done something wrong ) . important to tighten the pulley bolt 43- 58 nmts , do it less it will come undone do it tighter and it will snap , i have seen them snap cause people do them to tight .

even if the bore on the cil is pitted badbly u can get it reslee ved with a stainless sleeve and it will last for ever . a lot of brake shops do it

u must have it in gear and handbrake on !!!torque for the big bolt is rb25 and rb 20 142-152 n-mts , rb 26 446-544 idler pulley and tensioner pulleyfor all engines 43-58 n-mt . u definetaly need a puller to pull the crank pulley . if u dont know how to adjust the tension on the belt let me know and i'll post it for u . its very important to have the right tension on the belt and on the tensioner pulley bolt ( if u do it to tight it will break , not tight enough and it will come undone ). make sure u put back the 2 tensioner washers as the were as well .u need an allen key as well for the tensioner bolt ( 5 mm from memory ) . if u have any problems or unsure dot insall it let me know and i'll post it for u , the 3 timing marks are marked clearly . good luck with it .

no its not the same there is a lot of diff

what $ are u thinking landed and complied ?

undo any hose lower than the reservoir and let it out then turn the steer a few times and more will come out never all of it though . u can undo the pipe on the rack itself then u'll get more out the do them up and fill her up . when the reservoir is full start the engine and as the level goes down keep filling once its full turn steering a few times and fill up again the system bleed sitself out but make sure the level is right when u finish once its bled out u'll see the oil just red no more bubbles in it . i hope it helps u , its an easy job to do .