wrxhoon

swordfish u mean ur skyline has a push clutch dont u ? early mods have push late mods have pull my r33 gtr has pull ( the slave cil pushes to engine so it pulls the clutch away from it hence the name pull ) . by the way all old cars had push and most late mod cars have pull

u need 30mm socket and a big bar or u can use the starter to do it for u ( put socket in place with bar and kick the starter as it hits the rail it will undo make sure u cut the coils off so it wont srart ) then u need a puller to pull it off it will be very tight . if u do it yourself make sure u know what u r doing cause u have to time it right and also tension it right . if u dont have a workshop manual i can help . u also have to torque the tensioner pulley with a torque rench

brad gtr do u have 1 for r33 gtr ? if u have i'm interested in part 2 that covers everything other than engine ( i have part 1 engine )

sherlock is right , i hope u have long stem on your compression gauge to rech the plug holes . the engine should be hot and crank at 300 rpm . u dont say what engine it is but here is a guide. rb20e 1.23 mpa ( limit .93)rb25de 1.26 ( limit .96)rb25det1.2( limit .90)and rb 26dett 1.18 (limit .88) variance limit .10 mpa crank the engine until the pressure does't go up anymore ( usualy a few seconds ) then record the reading it may be in psi on your gauge. 1 mpa =138 psi apr. if u r pressure is down on 1 or more put some oil in the cil crank it a little then check pressure again if it goes up to normal it means u have worn piston rings , broken rings or chipped piston in that cil. if it doesn't make any diff then its leaking valve . i hope that helps u in someway and as sherlock said dont wory if u r readings are low , maybe slow cranking speed or the gauge . as long as they are all the same its good . if they are all the same then put a little oil in the cil and try again if the reding is the same again its all good ( its unlikly that all valves are leaking the same amount .

u can't tell by looking at it cause it will still look like new if its only 3 years old , even when its done 100 k and more than 5 years old it still looks new . since u dont know if it was changed for sure pay the extra $90 and have it changed

i would too ,if i bought a car that had 40 k on it and it was like 6 -7 years old ( u never know how many its done do u ? belts deteriorate with age as well as use but if i had a car and i knew the belt was changed say 2 - 3 years ago and only done 50k i wouldnt bother cause it would be like new

if u realy want to u can use a very fine compound with a buff and when u finish use cornflour that will take everything out i can assure u but if u never used a machine before u got to be very careful . of course a hand job will always be better but it will take u all day to do one panel , with a buff u will do the car in like 4 hours

any good cutting compound and a buff with lambswool pad will do the job , if u dont have a buff its bloody hard work but good exersise.

if u know for sure that u r belt is only 50 k as long as its not very old like more than 4 years dont bother wait until u do 100 k

i have a set of csa pursuit ( australian made ) 17x8 with 235x45x17 falkens . wheels unmarked , tyres , 2 x 95% , 2x70%

got a set of csa pursuit ( australian made ) with falken 235x45x17s $900 , wheels unmarked tyres 2 x95% 2 70%

i have a set of 200 SSS wheels and tyres , wheels are unmarked tyres have 95 % tread , looking for $600, if interested email [email protected]

they are not legal , if u use them make sure u have at least 6 turns on u r wheelnuts ,personaly i would't use them just get the right offset wheels instead