wrxhoon

If I was you I will look at local cars first , dealer and private sales. Be prepared to pay a $5k premium ( at least ) because you can see the car , you get it now, its registered and no risk getting damaged not able to register ( there is a small risk that you not be able to comply it ) . If you cant find the car localy then sure the only option is to import . Don't go on the calculators that import agents use to much, it will cost you more than they say.

Yes thats what I mean, if it goes away when the clutch is in thats the sound of the clutch plates rattling, nothing to worry about . Nismo spline shouldn't make any difference. Just because the engine was re-built at some stage doesn't mean the bearings are not your issue . I have seen plenty of newly built engines with bearing issues .How do you know you have N1 pistons? Do you mean the tapping noise went after the oil change ?

Could be a new owner. I know the other guy wasn't on SAU . I use to own a car the colour, same model with plates GTR33R, long gone now though with the plates .

This is where the rattle comes from, multi plates will rattle when not under load . Why not push the clutch in while you are listening to the tapping noise? You should be able to isolate it from the front pulleys that have winding bearing noise, toataly different to either lifter of big end bearing sound.

I use to see that car for years at Carlingford, parked on Oaks rd on Sundays, havent seen it for a long time .

The rattle you can hear is more than likely your clutch, what kind of clutch have you got ? Does it go away if you push the cluth in? You souldn't have any cluth box rattles when under load , check it out while driding with the window open on a cutting/tunnel. Gearbox bearings don't make tattling sounds the make winding like sounds, I guess with all the tattling and exhaust noise its hard to defferenciate .

Why would a 34 g/box make it any noisier than the 5 speed 32 box? Pulley noise is very different to a tapping noise, if he can't hear any noise keep driving it , if its a bearing it will get louder soon enough.

When big ends go its usualy number 6 that goes first ( of course it can be any other ) if this is the case with yours you should be able to hear the tapping like coming from the bellhousing. BB you can have picked up bearings in an RB 26 and still have good oil pressure, I have even seen one with a spun bearing and still holding good oil pressure.

Nothing you can do to check bearings unless you pull the sump off and to do this, although possible with the engine in the car , its much easier with the engine out . If you are concerned about bottom end ( usualy big end bearings) take it to any good mechanic, let him listen to the sound and he should be able to tell you what it is . When you pick up on a bearing you can hear this tapping like sound, it could sound like coming from the cyl head and you may think its lifter noise. It will be much quiter when the engine is cold and gets louder as the oil temp rises , when you are about to spin a bearing( or if one or more have spun) it will be unbearably lould, in this case you shouldn't drive it because you will end up with a rod out of the side of the block. Another way to listen to this, is while driving in a tunnel or a rockwall on at least one side of the road with a window down you will hear it . If you diagnose it as bearing noise by then more than likely the crank will need machining, if you let it go until you spin a bearing the crank will need replacing, either way you will be for a full re-built while the motor is out . Compression has nothing to do with scored or spun bearings, compression will only tell you how good your bore, pistons, rings, headgasket and valves seal and a lot of the time not even that because oil will seal worn bore/rings but not worn valves or leaking H/G. A leak-down test is more comprehensive for this, as well as as a comp test .

2 bolts to undo then slide the rubber out of the hangers, 5 minutes and she is off. same for re-installing it. Ok its exhaust the bolts could rusted so you may have to spend extra time or maybe snap the bolts , its still easy , just use new bolts . Drive in -drive out max 30 minutes, go to any exhaust shop and they will do it for $50-$80, including a new gasket and 2 new bolts .

I have a pair in Sydney but will post to melbourne, have a look here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t185917.html

$80k fo r a new GTR , you wish mate, I'll have a couple at that price . More like $120-150k ...

Yea series II v-specs have c/f bonnets stock, painted same colour as the rest of the car.

Thats what the Landcruiser is for.....so you have a second unreliable jap crap in the garage..

What you say is very true and you can even buy several corollas for the same money but not everyone wants to drive a rolla or a boring 318 BM for that matter . Brandon: I bought mine in 2004 she is still going strong and the only work I have done on her is mods or routine maintenance . Ok I don't drive her much but I know someone that has a 34 R with almost 200k k's and no issues with her at all just the normal things like brake pads , rotors , one clutch at 120 k k's , drive belts , timming belt etc, normal things that you will do to any car with this age k's. Buy a good example with average k's 50-100 k k's ( genuine not clocked down), make sure its stock and always has been ( catback exhaust is fine ) and don't worry, everyone drives them hard . If you think you will find a "one old lady owner, only driven to church on sundays" they don't exist , you buy a GTR to drive it hard . I would only buy a V-spec if I was you and no they are not more expensive because they are later models, they are exacly the same age , from 99 to 2002, they more expensive because of the extra stuff they have in them , front and rear defusers, carbon bonnet on series II, more features on the MFD etc... and the V-spec itself ( just the name) is worth some money and better resale value. If you find a good example and a rust free one ( not easy ), buy it, leave it alone ( no mods , exhaust is O.K) drive her hard and she will last you , you won't break anything . Don't expect a 8 yo clutch to last you though ( who knows the treatment she has , like 8000 rpm launches ) so expect things like that to need replacement , like brake pads , rotors , drive belts , timmimg belt etc... You would be doing the same to any 8 yo car , even the rolla and the 318 ... Good luck with your search mate .. who knows if you wait until the 35 is sold here, I may even sell mine ..

Stock fuel reg in Sydney, off series III R33 GTR, make an offer via PM if you like .

While the engine is out you may as well do a full re-build you will need it if you want 400AWKW. May as well use a better block( 24u or RRR), maybe a stroket kit?? It never ends, the only time it will end is when you run out of money or you get sick of spending money . Of course it will not cost you any more for labour to replace the turbos a new box and clutch, do everything at once do it right and you will save heaps of $$$$ , you probably get away with $50k.

I can't see why not, ask others, if you are in Sydney you can try it on .

Updated

To get to that kind of power you will need a lot of work done ot it, especialy in the cyl head . If you manage to get it to that kind of power and use it, you will find you are breaking things all the time, even the block !!

Its your call but for a street car with a stock engine and cyl head the GTSS'S are just about right in my opinion . The little Garretts are about the same too. You will find the mid Garretts (-5) will be laggy with your set up . I have GTSS on my car , unopened engine, turbo back exhaust, EBC (15 psi boost), power f/c and Nismo 550 injectors, everything else stock. Very responsive car but still good for 11.8 1/4 mile @ 117 mph in a car that weighs 1560 kg + driver and fuel =1660 kg.

If you find it hard to remove the turbos, you are going to find it much harder to fit the new ones back . if you have the right tools its not hard at all, however its time consuming, you will swear and loose plenty of skin. You will need 3/8 drive sockets with a uni to get to the manifold nuts, its easier if you undo the 4 nuts ( tubo to manifold) then undo the turbo brackets from underneath . lower the front turbo then get your extension with the socket between the manifold and the dropped turbo, undo the front manifold, pull that off then pull the front turbo off . The rear one is easier once the front is out . Of course before you even undo the turbo you will need to undo the oil and coolant lines, a warning here, DONT twist then in anyway , if you do you will it very hard to start the banjos when re-fitting the turbos . Make sure when you re-fitting the turbos ( exacly the reverve order) you start the banjos of oil and coolant lines by hand and only use tools once you turn then a couple of turns. Don't cross-thread them. You say you want a street car, why go for the bigger turbos then???? If i was you I would use the smaller ones, better still I would use HKS GTSS, you think they are much more expensive but they are not if you take in to account the gaskets you will have to buy for the Garretts ! What ever you decide to do good luck with it ...

I don't think thats what he wants mate , I think he wants the clutch fan ...

Sounds like big end bearings to me ..... Is it louder when the engine is hot ???

I have one in Sydney , how much do you want to pay for it , pm if you like .