wrxhoon

Its only about 3 years to late!!!

Updated

The tube that connects in to is at the very rear of the plenum, you can't miss it but I think you will need a new hose you will find it will be hardened and even cracked .

Makes no difference what gear its in, even in neutral the main shaft ( or input shaft) still turns as long as the clutch is not pushed in , when the clutch is pushed in then the main shaft stops and he said the noise goes away then . this is where I based my diagnosis that sounds like main shaft bearing .

Sounds like the main shaft bearing , it goes away when you push the clutch in because it stops spinning then . The thrust bearing should be noisy when you push the clutch in ( if its stuffed ) because thats when its under load .

Located on the drivers side near the brake booster. Did you check the hose that comes from the rear of the plenum to it ? You may find its hardened by the hat and broken/cracked ..

You can always ask mate .. Ah well you know for next time ....Keep in mind that in all cars its an easy to do job, a bit like changing a light globe, you should never have to remove the light assembly to do it....

You do it the long way around Adam. All you have to do is: undo the 12mm nut that locks the shaft and then use a little offset spanner ( i cant remember the size but I think 5/32) , turn the shaft then lock the 12 mm nut again , takes about 2 minutes. It takes me longer to find the correct size spanner than to do the job!!

I have a steering wheel with the airbag in Sydney but can post if you are keen .

Do you still want it ?

Here you go

I can help you with the steering wheel and I'm very close to you at West Pennant Hills .

Lower comp on 4 and 5 could even be a head gasket . Test again and do a leakdown to pinpoint the comp loss on 4+5. Is it a re-built engine or stock? Dont forget carbon built up will increase compression.

Buy a V-spec or V-spec II and buy the best car you can afford, if you was buying a 33 I would say then buy a none v-spec if thats what you want but with the 34 things are different . Keep in mind they are getting old now so its best to find a good example but if you think you will find one that was owned by an old lady and driven to church on Sunday, think again. If you are on very tight budget just go and buy a new car and keep it stock , GTR's and dudgets don't mix well. If you want one with steel wheel turbos you will have to get a NUR-Spec , not may around and very expensive or an N1. If I was you I would look for car here in AUS first and only use Japan as a last resort, buy a stock or stockish car with unopened angine and one with little or no rust on the underbody . If you want a little more power stick a pair of HKS GTSS turbos and a power f/c and enjoy it as long as you can stop at that you should be fine .. I had mine for 3 years now and she is still going great as for fuel you can use as little as 10lts per 100k and as much as you like 30-40lts per 100, depends on how you drive it . Insurance will depend on you and where you live , check it out with the various companies . Rego is the same as any other car that weighs the same ( in NSW). As for loans check it out with your lender, ask how much it will cost you for the amount you want to borrow . One thing I can tell you they are fun to drive and thats from someone thats probably old enough to be your dad .

I have a 34 GTR airbox and airguide , airbox is the same as 33, airguide slightly different but it will fit ( R33 guide will not fit 34 but 34 fits 33), I also have the bit that fits in the guard if you need it ( they are very hard to come by). Everything is in as new condition . I'm in Sydney, if you are keen make me an offer via P.M.

I'll second that, I never have problems with any clutch after a few starts . You guys think the Nismo twin is bad in traffic........I would have to say its one of the best twins to drive . The next best is a stocker full face plate but it won't hold much..

All wrx's ( early and late ) have 5x100 pcd . STI's have 5x100 until and including MY04 , My05 on have 5x114.3 pcd. All libertys have 5x100 pcd and SVX has 5x114.3 . The reason they went to 114.3 on late STI was to tun bigger wheel bearings . I don't know of any Mazda cars that have 5x100 PCD , all 5 stud mazdas are 5x114.3 , Some Toyotas are 5x100 , like some Camrys and Celicas .

Updated..

Ford ( falcon) , Toyota ( most 5 stud ) and Nissan are the same 5x114.3 mm pcd , Holden Commie is 5x120 pcd.

I have a pair of series one headlights, make me an offer.

You could have ajusted your rod so you get more travel, if you was running out of pedal travel . The bigger slave is much better , less effort and more progresive. Nismo twins are about the best you will find as far as driveability goes . Don't forget you will never have the same feel as a normal stock clutch , what you hvae is heaps more grip and lighter pedal in twin plates ( if you compare same clamping single and twin the twin will be lighter). The other reason you stall your twin is the much lighter flywheel, you have better response but you loose out on the torque of the much heavier stock flywheel. You can't have it both ways but a twin will take a lot more punishment and it will last as long as you DONT ride it , ride a twin and you will wear it out very quick, especially when you ride it between gears ..

GTR or GTST? GTR $440 posted to Brissy , GTST $60 , registered and insured .

Anything is possible Duncan, especially if you have tiny hands , maybe he has a Japanese girlfriend ? I know I couldn't fit my hands in there. I never had reason to replace it with the box in so I never tried . It wouldn't be possible with a pull clutch i wouldn't think but he has a GTST with push clutch ... so maybe ... we will see ..

More parts added, I will add more as I find them.