wrxhoon

Its easy enough to get it off but can you put the new one back? I can tell you that I can't but if you have very small hands you maybe able. Interesting to see if you can do it , even if it takes half an hour will be worth it .

SAU97R ( Pranks car) outside Powerplay ..

I have one in Sydney.

GTR to replace dumps = turbos out , front pipes no need to remove anything other than front pipes , 2 14 mm nuts on each dump , all you need is a long extension and if you have a uni will come handy for one of them .

Give Aaron a call on 0421 962 393, he has one for sale .

121 mph should be mid 11 Charlie .

I don't think you are measuring right, 9 thou is far to much clearence . Where do you measure the piston? piston to bore clearence should be no more then 4 thou for forgies and like 1.5-2 thou for stockers (cast). 50 thou ring gap is to bid as well, it should be like 15 thou max. The bearings are shot, possibly due to detonation. Start rebuilding and this time make sure whoever does it they measure everything and double check to make sure you don't have to built it again.

* R34 GTR wheels +Toyo T1R's 275x35x18 , The wheels are in excellent condition, no gutter marks and very clean , tyres have under 5000 km with about 7mm tread left , theese tyres are top of the line Toyos , they retail over $500 each. $2950 for the set of 4 wheels and tyres. SOLD * R34 GTR GTR rims ( just rims , no tyres ) Again excellent condition , no gutter marks and very clean, you will not find better rims .. $2290 * R34 GTR wheel centre caps , replace your lost/broken caps , excellent condition $65 each or $195 for the set of 4. * R34 GTT steering wheel with airbag, excellent condition $390. * RB26 N1 actuators, ajustable like HKS, excellent working order $175 for the pair. * RB 26 Stock exhaust manifolds ( R33 GTR) $90 for the pair . * RB 26 Stock Dump pipes ( R33 GTR) $60 for the pair [/s] SOLD * RB 26 exhaust heatshields , make an offer. * R34 GTR floor mats , complete set of 5 , excellent condition $275 for the set. on hold SOLD *R33 GTR series III clear front B/Bar blinkers , genuine Nissan items including the grills $240. SOLD * R33 GTR Jun rear pods white $75 for the pair. SOLD * R33 GTST headlights, very clean lens, no fogging, drivers side perfect, passengers side slight crack has been repaired $275 for the pair SOLD * R33 GTR Nismo cluster white face looks in great condition , she came off a half cut , I can't test to see if its working , but you are welcome to try it before buying $ 420 SOLD * R33 GTST cluster, looks good, nothing broken , unknown if it works or not $40 for parts SOLD. * 3 Gauge pod to suit R33 , sits on the top of the dash to suit 60mm gauges $70 SOLD I will add stuff as I find It . I'm in Sydney and I will post at buyers expense, more pics available on request for buyers . * Genuine R34 GTR gear knob excellent condition $140 SOLD * R33 GTR turbo coolant and oil lines $80 SOLD * R34 GTR complete stock clutch and flywheel $190 SOLD * R34 GTR 3" Fujitsubo Legalis R Catback, Just like new $690 * R34 GTR rear floor mats ( only the 3 rear mats , no front mats ) $140 * R34 passengers side airbag , perfect condition includes the cover [/s] SOLD * R 34 Airbag computer , the one that goes under the centre console and must be replaced if any airbags are deployed ... make an offer

Not that I know Duncan but I havent had the 3 cyl heads all on the bench at once , actually I never had a 34 head on the bench. I know the castings are the same though .

Nothing to do with a healthy engine or not . You wont have any damage/wear on the bore or anywhere else. The only damage you will have is on the bearings , mostly big ends but can be on mains as well . I have seen people mark the bearings on a built engine the very first time they start it , thats why you should usse mooly grease when you assemble it in the bearings . As you hit the starter the grease will protect them until the oil pressure builts up. Hopefully there was enough oil in there so you haven't mark them to much but if I was you i would pull the sump out and check them . If you keep driving it until you hear the knock it maybe to late for the crank . Don't worry about spinning them though you will hear them knock long before they spin.

You will find that lots of engine parts have 05U but only the block has a serial number as required by law here and in many other countries. some car makers now have serial numbers in other mechanical parts as well.

You will have some bearing wear for sure as there wasn't any oil and you have metal to metal contact. How much wear/damage is anyones guess, don't forget there is oil in there but as you run it for 5 long minutes a lot of it would have gone , When you was runing the engine you should be able to hear some knock .. The best thing to do would be to pull the sump out and check the bearings and the crank journals.

You say you have unacceptable amount of piston slap , like how nuch clearence? What was the clearence ( piston to bore) when it was built? Was the ring gap meassured in the bore ? if yes what was the gap? Are the bores worn now? Can you still see the crosshatch hone ? How was th engine run in? My guess is that the piston rings were broken in assebly or maybe you didn't have enough gap and they broke when they got hot and expended. I can't realy say without knowing the answers to the above . Don't forget when using forgies you have to have bigger piston to bore clearence than cast pistons .

As far as I know all RB26 head castings are the same. They have different internals in the the 3 different models . Nick cylinder heads don't have serial numbers mate, only blocks do.

I have a pair with clear lenses, came off a series III GTR, if you are keen make an offer.

I have a set of clear ones with the surrounds from a series III ( the passengers side is differrent) , I prefer to sell them together . If you are keen make me an offer.

I can help with the cluster cover .

I can't remember what size tyres but there is a pic on a 33 GTS in Osaka , car had standard suspenssion .

I have the fan and the clutch , what else do you want ?

It looks like a 32 engine but engine number will confirm what year it is .

If you crimp the hose you won't even loose much fluid but if you run the master cyl dry then you will have to bleed the master and it can be a little tricky for the untrained .

I have a 34 GTR flywheel . If you are keen P.M an offer.

You will find the benefit of using the bigger slave two fold . 1) Less effort 2) More progresive pick up, so easier to drive in traffic. No problems with the clutch disengaging at all mate , Its a Nismo product afterall and all nismo products are made well and work . I have a Nismo Super Coppermix and a Nismo slave in my GTR , works perfect .

They do that but it will stop again..

No , Not as bad as that , you can buy an used normal cluster and hopefully the oddo driver works , then swap the driver . Where are you located ?