wrxhoon

Most likely your oddo driver is dead, you can't buy them on their own , the best way to fix it .... buy another cluster ..

I will have 3 if you think you can get a Nur spec , even if its not M if you can get them for $60k . For $60k you will be lucky to get a clean series I V-spec.

Time for a new clutch ???? If you can't get it undone with the starter trick ( provided you don't lean it on the rail and expect the starter to undo it) you better have a huge rattle gun . I have a ring gear stopper but I don't think it would help you . I only ever used it when the motor is out of the car and only when my 3/4" rattle gun wouldn't undo it . Then I used the stopper and a huge 3/4" drive breaker bar with a pipe at the end . The trick with the starter is to have a long bar and make sure you have some slack and make it so the end of the bar hits, don't expect to have much grunt near the socket..

I have one that fits next to the water bottle , you have to turn the water bottle around though , made from polished alloy , yours for $130 including hose proper oil hose not plastic shit that will melt) and a filter .

The starter will work but you have to give it some slack, no point leaning it againiest the rail and then hit it .. Give it a fair bit of slack say 400 mm put a block of wood on the rail where you expect it to hit , then hit the starter, it should work, make sure you use a solid bar not one with a ratchet and make sure you have a fully charged battery.

Buy a new one from Nissan, they are about $130

I agree with TO4GTR, replace the ball bearing and she will be fine , thats what holds it in gear.

How do you kinow how many rims I have dude? What kind of rims do you want ? Now that the other car has gone I have more for sale . With toyo T1Rs and without tyres. How much do you want to pay ? P.M with an offer if you like and I will consider , the rims in the above pic have been sold though. Are you in Sydney ? Can you pic up ?

If the turbos let go ( they have a habbit of letting go when removed and replaced) it will be a lot more that $6k Looks like they used the old oil pump as well, next time they will have to change that tooand a lot of other stuff that will have ceramic dust through it.

It may have one or more ringlands busted but that is not the reason she won't run or the fact that pumps out heaps of black smoke ( thats fuel) . Don't forget even with a couple busted ringlands you usualy have some compression , say 70psi and with boost the busted cyl still fires and what about the other 4 or 5 healthy cyls .

I have a good pair, no fogging and nothing broken you can have them for $350.

You will find that your lights are crazed ( they have tiny little cracks on the lens from exposure to the sun) nothing short of changing them can fix it . Put your lights on at night and look in the lens you will the tiny little cracks . Polishing them fixes it for a little while, well makes them look better, not realy fixes them.

You will have to try and get this easyout bit out before you can do anything . If you manage to get this bit out its not very difficult as long as you have an oxy torch . You will have to heat the area then use the easyout and she will come , careful do not get carried away with the oxy because the cyl head is alloy, dont melt it . If you don't have oxy or any experience with oxy try normal lp gas but it may not work with that . CARE should be taken when using flame to make sure no fuel is around especialy in a closed garage . You maybe better off letting some expert to take it out . If you stuffed the thread , don't worry they can drill a bigger hole and then use a helicoil .

It sounds like a pipe , how can you say you don't think its a pipe ? Unless you know something you are not telling us . The way you described it , running very rich so much so you can get any power out of it , its typical AFM issue, you are getting unmetered air from somewhere and my guess is you popped a cooler pipe . You can't see the lower 2 pipes as they are inside the the b/bar , if you take the blinker grills out you should be able so see if the pipes are ok , if you can't see the top try pulling it your hand . You may have to pull the inner plastic guard to secure it if it came off.

Make me an offer that I can't refuse ....

450 kw with $15-20 K? what are you going to buy with 20k ? not even the parts , for that kind of power you will need a stroker kit say a 2.8 tomei HKS or something like that . The kit alone will be around the $8 k mark and all you get is a crank, pistons rings and rods, add bearings oil pump new main and rod bolts, water pump bore and hone and deck the block ( with a torque plate ) another $3 k , thats $11k in parts and you only have the bottom end. Spend another $6-7 k in the cyl head ( port and polish, new valve springs, retainers,head studs cams etc...) Your $20 k already spent and you havent bought any gaskets or paid for R+R from the car ( say $1.5 k)or sassemble the engine another $1.5 k . What about fuel, injectors , pump , pressure reg mybe a fuel rail , another $2k? you will need some turbos to get this kind of power as well as exhaust manifold, dumps, front pipes, say another $5-6 k? what about cooling system , for this power you will need abigger radiator + oil cooler , another $1.5 k? you will have to upgrade the intercooler and the inrecooler pipes as well, another $1.5 k? With all this power you will need a strong clutch , some jap twin plate ?? Another $2.5 k ?? With this kind of power the box will need upgarding too, It never ends , you may break a front diff or even a rear diff . I forgot .... with this power how long before the 5u block cracks , not very long at all by my experience so it will be safer to start with a NISMO GT block ( RRR)or at the very least a N1 (24u ). I forgot ... you will need a few gauges to monitor everything , say boost, coolant temp, oil temp, exhaust temp and maybe a wide band AFR, but thats only another $1.5 k , when you spend $40-50k , anothe couple is nothing .... I forgot you will have to tune this as well , so you will need some computer as well as pay for dyno time and tuner.. another $2-$3K? Shit I lost count by now ....... Did you say brakes ???? Suspenssion? Wheels ?? Tyres??? If I was him I would leave it stock with maybe GTSS turbos ( or something like that) and enjoy it untill she blows up. But then again thats me , been there and done that many times before .....ah and I never had to pay for labour , a small saving there ..... As most of us know when you strart big power mods you NEVER finish and you need the bank as well

Why not 22", every man and his dog has 20's, thats why I stick with my stock forged 18's.

How much do you want to pay for it?

250-260 RWKW thats a lot of power, more than double stock power . You could use a lot of different clutches to hold this kind of power but let me tell you the Nismo will hold it easy and it will be very easy to use, it will last a long time as long as you DON'T ride it .

Its the attessa fluid , you will have to undo it and block the end of the pipe , don't worry blocking the gearbox side of it ( very little fluid will come out from there ). When you re-install the box you will have to bleed the system otherwise your attessa will not work.

You will find that all clutches should come complete with the release bearing ( its a must change when you do a clutch) and all twin plate ( or multy) come with a flywheel too. The only other thing you will need is a spiggot bush and if you want a larger slave with a Nismo twin . If you go the OS go for the STR clutch, not the competition. If I was you I would use the Nismo , not much different in the cost .

Nismo Super Coppermix twin 640ps, I'm using the Nismo larger slave with it as well. With all twin plate clutches you must not ride them , if you do you will wear them out real quick .

BB is correct and they usualy have a mark on them (Like an arrow on the fly and the clutch) so you line them up . I use a Nismo twin, a little more user friendly than OS but is fine .

Take the rear seat out and you will see them near the speakers.

From my experience all the conversions that I have seen the light blinds other drivers and you don't see well . When the original lights fog up they are never any good again . You clen them up and they look O.K. for a few months then they go the same again . If you put your lights on at night then look in the lens you will see 100's of little cracks in the lens , on a good clean light you don't see that .