wrxhoon

If my lines were in good nick I wouldn't buy any, if you don't have any you may as well but you will not know any difference .

In Sydney Hills area, clutch is still here . Mik is very busy today .

I don't want to say you are not competent mate but from what I can see Don't get involved with the ABS or master cyl because they are harder to bleed than calipers . You are having trouble bleeding it from the calipers so I wouldn't go undoing the ABS . If you had air the second time that means you didn't bleed it in the first place. at a guess i would say you let the pedal go before you locked the bleed nipples then as the pedal comes up you suck a little amout of air in it . Don't worry about ABS/ Master cyl. follow the instructions above but keep going for a long time on the very first caliper , bleed it long enough so all the fluid from the master comes out ( don't forget you have to keep feeling it up, as soon as it goes down just bellow half). Even when you have no bubbles in it keep going , you will need about 500 ml to flash it all out. If you do this any air in the system ( even in the ABS unit will come out ). Try it and see how you go .

Do you want a hard copy? electronic?

Don't forget your h/lights ( the whole assembly , the reflector in particular) is designed for halogen globes, convering to xenon is not ideal . Same happens when you convert xenon lights to hal ( they are crap) . If you want much better lights you need the series III GTR xenon lights, they will fit your series I 33 but they dont have the bottom bracket for the grill and they are not cheap . If your normal halogen lights are in good nick you should have a good light as long as you are getting 14 volt to them . If you have fogged up lens and or stuffed reflectors just replace them with good used ones, if you are not getting the full 14 volt to them , run direct power to them with a thicker cable and use a relay to trigger them. This way you will save your combo switch from stuffing up as well .

Another happy customer with the Nismo supper Coppermix twin, I have one in my GTR with the bigger slave . The bigger slave will make it feel lighter and makes the pick up more progresive . In my opinion its the best twin in the market but they are not cheap . You will get everything you need with the kit , the only other thing you want is a spiggot bush .

If you know what you are doing you should be able to bleed the whole system without touching the ABS . By the sound of it the brakes work but they have air in the system . Try pumping the pedal a few times while stationary with the engine running, if the pedal comes right to the top ( and its hard) you have air in the system . If you are not sure how to bleed the lines take it to someone that does , if you want to have another go try this: You will need 2 people , one pumping the pedal and the other on the bleed nipples. Pump the pedal in quick succession several times hold load on it while the other person undoes the bleed valve , make sure you lock the bleed valve BEFORE the pedal goes to the floor , do that until you see no more tiny little bubbles comming out . Start with the caliper furtherst from the ABS unit then the next closest and so on . The frst one you do make sure you continue for a while even after you see clear fluid ( without bubbles ) a good few times . Make sure you have 1.5 lts of fluid ( you should only need 500ml to 1000 ml , more for brembos) . While you are doing this make sure the master cyl reservoir never goes anywhere near EMPTY , not even on the one circuit . If you run it empty you will need to bleed the master cyl , not easy for the inexperienced . After you finish all of them with engine running try the pedal if it feels good test drive it and see how you go. Good luck with it.

If you have the $$$$$ buy a good 34 GTR you won't regret it . A very mildly modified 34 R will do the 1/4 in mid to high 11's on your normal street tyres everyday but you will need a clutch as well . This type of car you will be able to drive on the street every day if you wish and attract any attention from the cops .

Where did you get this from ? for your info look at ActionDans post , his is bang on the money save a few 100'ths of a PSI.

The none V-spec car says 95 model and the dash is 95 model ( series I) but she has as eries II steering wheel.. V-specs command a higher price ( very little) and maybe easier to sell, I have owned both in stock and modified form and I can tell you there isn't much difference, Just buy the better car . A coulpe notable differences , V-spec has a finned diff and ALSD lights up in the dash, a lot of other little things but harder to notice . Good luck with whatever car you buy , check it out well by someone that knows GTRS . Be very careful there are lots of cheap GTR'S out there but I'm sure you will have to pay good money for a good car . We just sold one for much more than double the asking price of these cars ( yea it was a 33). Victory, all imported cars have questionable k's regardless of what type of cluster they have, unless you know the history of them with books , auction papers etc...but you will NOT find many like that in Australia and when you do you think wow that has to many k's on the clock so you then buy the one with 20 or 40 something that has actualy done 120-140 or even 240 .

Up you go .

I have a 60 mm HKS in Sydney .

Sometimes they will reset as soon as you back off but usualy you have to turn the ignition off ( from my experiance). A proper bosst gauge will tell you exacly how much boost you have ( you don't have to wire it up , get a mechanical gauge , they are more accurate too). Replace your aftermarket BOV with a pair of stockers , are you sure you have aftermarket ? where is it ? If its not inside the drivers side guard you probable don't have the pipe there either. If you want to run stock boost ( about 11-12 psi) you have to put the restrictor back in , it should be inside one of the hoses to your stock boost solinoid, the one with the 2 yellow lines on it. If you run stockish boost you are correct you don't need bigger injectors but don't forget you maybe running a lot more than stock and or more ignition timming ( this may cause knock) Knock or leaning out up high could bust a ringland .... Running high boost on stock turbos could be terminal to your turbos, if a turbo exhaust wheel lets go could spell the end or your engine !! The above is not meant to scare the crap out of you , just a warning of what could happen, if I was you i would back off until I sort it all out .

This is correct , you will find it may even go higher that 7 but the stock gauge runs out at this point, you may find that someone has removed the restrictor . When your boost only goes to the half mark or just above its because the your ecu turns the boost solinoid off and you have just actuator boost then . I think you will find the problem is your stock ecu cuts boost to protect your engine because it detects either knock or injectors go to max when boosting. As soon as you turn the engine off it resets itself then boosts to the end again

Don't worry about the marks on the belt ( they are there to assist you when fitting the belt) . You have to make sure the crank gear mak lines up with the mark on the case ( top) and at the same time the cam gear marks line up with the slots on the backing plate but they muat line up exacly maybe 1or 2 mm out ( not cm) . If they don't all line up your valves are misstimed, pull the belt off and strart again, there is a guide on this forum somewhere if you dont have a workshop manual.

Guys these are well priced, no silly offers please, anyone that thinks they can get a power f/c with controller for $500 , please go buy it ..

If you have a look at the pic you will see it says PFC RB26 9830010. madaz R33, You can have just the boost controller mate for $290, they are very simple to set up and use , you can change boost on the controller

You don't need the boost controller kit, you can use your own , plug it in and she will run , of course i would srongly reccomend that you tune it to suit your car . The serial number is on the pic ( 9830010) someone maybe able to tell you how old it is , I dont know as it came with a car but looks as good as new and the controller is as new too. R32 and R33 GTRS use the same unit so this will suit you ..

How much do you want to pay for them ?

I have a power f/c with the commander to suit R33 GTR ( will suit R32 GTR as well) . Excellent condition and the screen is very clear and no scratches . SOLD

Do you know for sure that the turbos were highflowed? If yes steel wheels should have been used . It Did you find the broken exhaust wheel? Sounds like the turbo you replaced was a stock ceramic wheel turbo and when it let go some of the ceramic dust got sucked back in the engine the scored the bores, this is why you have low compression .

I have a used one with the commander in excellent condition , I have a boost controller kit as well. P.M with an offer if you are keen . they were used in a 33GTR but they are the same as 32.

I have a manual , in Sydney .

I got a pair serries I in Sydney, excellent condition , no fogging and no broken brackets . P.m an offer .

R33