wrxhoon

This is a major operation, you are not just going to replace the pistons and rods, there is a lot more to it . Engine R+R , strip engine , inspect everything and replace all warn parts . Measure the pistons and bore +hone the engine block to suit the supplied pistons . Check and measure crank and probably use new bearings ( I would). Service the cylinder head . Re-assemble everything and at the very least use a new timming belt and new gaskets . Labour and machining for the above $3000 + all parts used .

Fujitsubo legalis R , is very quiet .

I bought my M-Spec in Japan . I wouldn't buy a none V-spec 34, you get a few nice bits with a V-Spec and you will only pay $5 k extra. Why don't you check sewid's car , Its black , V-Spec and has some nice mods as well. I have seen that car and I can tell you its a very genuine , none accident car with Genuine K's on the clock . Don't forget most cars for sale would have the oddos turned back so the 30-50k k's showing on the clock will more than likely be 100 k k's . Your other option is to go to Japan and buy one there but expect to pay 4mil+ yen for a 99 model series I and 5 mil+ for a series II car with reasonable K's . Good luck in your search ..

You are spot on BB, that would be me in Cobe inspecting a car I almost bought . She was excellent in every way but one thing , blowing a little smoke on cold starts . That indicated to me that someone baby it when they run it inn, and they molly rings didn't bed inn , thats one of the reasons I gave it a miss, the other was the asking price 7.3 mil. She only had 16 k k's on the clock . Ronin 09, 34's are not confusing mate, they are very simple if you know them. I know someone was trying to pass on a V-spec II as a NUR a while ago , he even changed a lot of stuff on it using NUR part. If know what to look for its very easy even without checking the VIN.

No mate , Vspec II Nur has normal Series II seats ( black cloth) only M-spec cars ( both NUR and none NUR) have heated leather seats. The white car in the pic with NUR badge has series one seats + lots of other normal series one stuff, evn the Nissan I/d plate on the firewall is different colour on the NUR spec cars !!!! 300km speedo ( yes 300 not 320) and the list goes on and on ....

Here you go mate, this is the real deal , not just the badge, a beautiful black, bog stock M-spec NUR. Stooge007 , have a look at the interior , thats the main diff. Ronin 09, You don't have to resort to the built date mate, or the vin for that matter , Heaps of other stuff , even the seats are not series II..

I think you will find your addometer drive is seized , you can't buy it on its own . Nissan will sell you the complete speedometer that has this driver with it . Your best ( cheapest) way would be to buy a used cluster and hope that this driver lasts . As others have pointed out someone may have tempered with the oddo and its just jammed , in this case an intrument repairer would be able to fix it . As a general rule cars in Japan travel less k's than they do here on average. I have seen cars there with very low K's and on the other hand cars with very high k's , like a 5yo car with 200 k k's on the clock . Most cars imported to AUS are higher k cars with the odds changed or turned back because they are much cheaper to buy. This is the reason none of the importers will show you auction sheets....

These are sold

I wouldn't expect anything else from you dude .... This is the reason why you have no idea what you are talking about ... I'll say it again leave the technical stuff to others .... stick to the WASTELAND, it suits you......

Yea , maybe better to stick to the wastleland !!!! I guess if you just sit back and read .... you may learn from others that have some idea at what they are posting.

Here we go again .. Who said anything about compression being 75% dude ... I said LEAKDOWN on number 5 would be 75% . There is a difference just in case you didn't know ...Leakdown is measured in % of pressure lost and I said having 75 psi in number 5 would resalt in a leakdown of 75% .

I didn't even look under the bonnet , I thought that pic was the red car !! There are heaps of differences between that car and a genuine NUR !!!

If you cant get the right stud ( with the correct spline ) or if the spline is stuffed you can spot weld the head on the hat . Make sure you use a high tensile stud and dont overtighten it. People overtighten them , thats why they brake . They don't come loose because they have locknuts but if you undo them a few times the locknuts don't work any more so use new ones .

Depends on the tyres you fit on them , on stock suspenssion you could fit them with 225x40's.

They are both Rb26 rods , looks like at some stage the changed one ( different batch number and probably newer) so the lighter colour . The pistons are stock Nissan N1's ( 24u mark on them) but they are 1mm oversise so 87 mm bore ( thats the 100 on them near the dot that indicates the front of the piston ). 50 is .5 mm oversise and standard size have st there ( or something like that ). Here is a pic of a complete set of rods that are the same batch .

If the compression is only 75 on number 5 , leakdown would be like 75% on that cyl. What was the leakdown results on all cylinders? It could be any of several causes for the low comp or even a combo . If i was a betting man I would say broken ringlands on 5 but it could be a leaking H/gasket , valve..... A leakdown test will pinpoint it if its bottom end or in the cyl head . As it is not a 10 year old car yet you are covered by consumer law for 3 months in NSW as long as the car has less than 100 k ks on the clock. Unless they can prove that you abused the car of played around with it , they will have to repair it as it is not normal wear and tear ... One cylinder down to 75psi in a turbo car will not make a huge difference in power because when under boost that cyl is firing . Its like having a 1/12th power drop as that cyl only gives you half the power than it would normaly would . You should be able to pick it up when iddling because its not firing properly until it starts boosting .

"V-Spec II Nur" badges can be bought much cheaper than the actual car!!! The white car above is NOT Nur-spec.

The lights are the same but the rubber on the top is different( where the bonnet closes on the light) , they will fit but will look funny .

R34 GTR injectors are silver , R32+ 33 are black , Its very easy to confirm just by looking at pictures . If these are the injectors he bought from me they are R34 and in excellent condition . This is a 34 injector , R32+ 33 are the same but the body is black. Good luck with the sale

Go to a compliance shop, they have the glass ( no backing plates ) , you should be able to pick one up for about $10. If you can't find a compliancer near you go to a glass place and they will cut one for you .

Post 12 in the first page. 20x17x17 cm , it fits it the r33 but you need another bracket

Make that 3 years ago Chris ... You should use a sealed battery ( gelcell) or a vented battery and use the factory hose to vent it under the car . To do anything else is illegal but more than anything else DANGEROUS because you have the fumes in the boot of the car and any spark could ignite them ..

You have a problem with number 4 cyl. A leakdown test will pinpoint your problem better than anything else . blind_elk 's suggestion is next best option, don't forget adding oil in any cyl will increase compression to some extent because the combustion chamber will be somewhat smaller...

Its at the rear of the plenum and from there it goes to the map censor near the brake booster . The line near the plenum will be very hard and fragile because of the heat . You don't have to tap in to it you can tap anywhere in the plenum you like , i fine the best place is the fuel reg.

Got one R34 GTR , p.m.with an offer .