wrxhoon

Standard boost is about 10psi, thats what that gauge is showing too.

Not good news......

Bump

Sorry mate my mistake it is 30mm, I should have checked before I posted, bad memory.

Looks like you done a ringland mate, I think I may know someone that will built it at a reasonable price. Can you R+R the engine youself? P.M. if you are keen .

For the people that P.M about the hand controller, I will not sell it seperate.

Right ( normal). I guess you have an RB26 right? Is it in car or out? You will need 3/4 drive 32mm socket and a huge bar , they are about 450-500 nm. If its in the car use the starter, if out the best way is a 3/4 drive rattle gun.

That indicates bore and or ring wear on number 2. and to a lesser extend in number 1 as well .

Did you read post 2? The tube to the map censor is probably broken , they get fragile from the heat . Just look for a tube ( about 5mm thick) going from the rear of the plenum to the map censor near the brake booster . REAR of the plenum NOT front.. You will find a steel tube about 30-40mm long and about 4 mm thick, get a new tube and plug it in there, don't even try to re-use the old hose, the same thing will happen again ..

Rb26 32mm, and plenty of musle, Rb25 27mm.

Check to see if its gassed , you can do that by pushing on the valve just like you do on your tyres .

Did you check the tube ? The tube goes to the map sensor and then voltage from there to the gauge . The gauge is electric not mechanical.

Just use a long screwdriver to push the clip off the shaft . You should be able to get to it fron the inspection holes in the bellhousing ( take the rubber plugs off and use a torch ).

The tube to the map censor is probably broken , they get fragile from the heat . Just look for a tube ( about 5mm thick) going from the rear of the plenum to the map censor near the brake booster .

Thats what I said in post 4 dude.

I have fitted a R33 Nismo (320k speedo) on a series I gtst ...

Unrelated with injectors mate . You are correct abo . If a little amount of oil increases comp it means rings and or bore worn but don't forget a substantial amount will increase comp because the combustion chamber is smaller because of the oil . In a low comp cyl if puting oil in to it doesn't increase comp it means the valves are leaking. Do a leakdown test as well.

I don't kow how you go with emissions . You can get halogen headlights, some R34 gt's have them and they will fit, the only difference is the rubber on the top. We have to convert them here as well, I converted mine to halogen and then re-convert them back to xenon. When you convert GTR xenons to halogen the light is very poor in rain . Do you have to convert to left hand drive as well?

That would depend on the exchange rate. In late 2004 I found one in japan ( Nagoya), I could buy for 2.5 million yen, 99 model none V-Spec, 150k k's, plenty of exposure to salt and generally rough car. You will not buy a good V-Spec BNR 34 in Japan bellow 4 million yen ..

Apexi power F/c to suit BNR 32 and BCNR 33 $850. In Sydney but will post anywhere at buyers expense. SOLD P.m. or email : [email protected] Phone: 0408 973 245 Cheers, Jerry

Will fit and will run perfect. speedo will be accurate too, the only thing you will need a boost gauge , the GTR cluster doesn't have one .

I have a 34 GTR pump in Sydney , if you are keen make an offer. Cheers, Jerry

R33 and R34 airboxes are the same ( as long as they are both turbos) but the airguides are different. If you want I have an R34 GTR airbox in Sydney.

RB26's don't have VCT. If you decide to do a rebuilt of an RB26 you should be looking at a minimum of $6k including R+R engine . I don't like your chances of a $6k built though, I'm sure it will cost you more unless you do some work yourself. This is for a basic rebuild not including head work ( but including basic reco), cams, cranc, etc... On the top of this you have to allow for turbos, computer, injectors, AFM's, EBC, I/C pipping kit, maybe dump pipes, front pipes , cat, catback exhaust , cams , cam gears, tune and list goes on and on, clutch and depending on what you want to use the car for, upgrade cooling system and brakes. You dont have to do much to a healthy GTR engine to run 11 second 1/4 mile so if you bought one with a good donk just leave it in there . Get a set of GTSS turbos ,injectors, maybe AFMs, power f/c, ebc, full exhaust, maybe a clutch and your goals are met very easy, don't worry about power numbers. Enjoy it like that and when you blow it up do a rebuild and by then you will want more power. If you are worried about spending money on the car DONT modify it at all and even then you are at risk buying an old car . I have run 11.8 @ 118 mph in my car with just GTSS turbos, ebc(1.1 bar), power f/c, 550 injectors, front pipes and a catback in a car that weighs 1580kg with the aid of a 6 speed box and a NIsmo twin plate , the weight advantage of a 32 or even 33 makes up for that.

What brand is it ?