wrxhoon

I have a 3" Fujitsubo Legalis R Catback exhaust for sale . This would have to be the quitest 3" exhaust I have seen. It was on my car for about 10k k's and it is still like new, no dints or scrapes at all. Its all polished s/steel and its still as shiny as it was when I got it. Not sure if it will fit a 34GTT but it will fit a V-spec BNR 34 ( with the rear defuser) and the cops will not bother you with this, it is claimed to be quieter than stock GTR exhaust at idle. I'm in Sydney but will post at buyers expense . Looking for $690

Dead oil pump=dead bearings at the very least, just hope that the crank is still good so you can just replace the bearings. Even if shut it down a few seconds are enough to score the bearings.

If the pump has died, what makes you think the engine ( bearings ) is still in good nick? I would at least pull the big ends off ( while the sump is out) and check them ..

Its sump out to replace oil pump. Usually you replace oil pump when you do an engine rebuild so engine is already out . It can be done on the car but you will have to drop the subframe to do it . I find it just as easy to remove the engine to pull the sump off but I usually do other things as well, maybe turbos , clutch etc... so kill 2 birds with the same stone . I know others prefer to drop the subframe to remove the sump, each to their own I guess. I may say I wouldn't just replace the oil pump, no point in doing it in my opinion, if you have a healthy engine let it be until she blows up then you rebuild and replace oil pump .

Bump

You can ajust the rod , if you do a search i have posted some pics on here showing how to do it.

If it happens when you back off more than likely you have a worn gear ( the one that pops out)

You will find turbo diesel 4W Drives are the best for towing but they weigh much more than 1500kg .

Yes , direct and the plugs fit, unlike the 800ccs, they can be a little tight in to the fuel rail but a little rubber grease makes them go in nice. I would use new O rings and new collars but I use the old spacers if they look OK.

[. Was it a leakdown or compression test? Compression is quoted in either PSI or bar and you want as little variance as possible however a max of about 14 PSI . Leakdown is quoted in % and you want as little as possible ( less than 5% is very good) . It did hurt because someone else was driving the car so I didnt even get the pleasure of blowing it up myself. I only got the pain of rebuilding it, I had to change everything .

. I'm not even sure that you can do that. I get full boost (1.1 bar) in my car at around 3800 on the higher 3 gears but don't forget I have a 34 engine and very healthy one as well. Sory to hear all your misfortunes.. Have you had a full check up on your engine? ( the one the turbo let go ) If not, if I was you I would do a full compression test and a leakdown before doing any mods to it . These engines have a bad habit of sucking turbo ceramic dust back in them. When it happened to me a few years back no-one believed me but its happened to a few people here and now there are a lot more believers... This is what could have happened to yours ( but i hope not). This is extreme as you can see the 3 pistons ( rear turbo let go so rear 3) are totally stuffed , the bore was the same and it was embebbed in the cyl head as well. The effected 3 cyls had very low compression( around 50-90) the other 3 had normal comp but were still effected ( very fine marks though).

Shouldn't be a problem if you have the T50 bit. They use them for a reason, don't forget if the airbag goes off near your head, you could be dead....

Cams will make a difference mid to high RPM, you can use either type A or B, not much difference in them but i would go for type B. I don't have cams in my car because I didn't want to open my engine and its easier to pass emisions test if need be. You can't really compare different cars on different dynos because you will get different power figures. Even the same car on the same dyno the same day you can have different power figure . The bits you listed above will give you good power through the rev range and a very good response if you have a healthy stock engine but don't expect huge power up high. I have GTSS turbos in mine with stock AFM's and she has stock like response with much more power mid to high . I have run a 11.8 second 1/4 mile with a 118 mph trap speed but its a very low ( genuine ) km series II 34. How do you intend to install the oil pump? Sump baffles? Engine out?

About 14 PSI variance .

Bump

The ones in the pic are not stock, I have these for sale, P.m. with an offer if you are keen .

I have the oil line for both turbos , will sell together with the joiner. $40 including post to Melbourne .

Because the car in front of het did.... what else do you think, the reason she stopped makes no difference. What if a person walked in fron of her ??? I never drive bellow the speed limit anywhere dude, yes I do speed up when I come to the overtaking lane to overtake the car in front of me. Don't worry as soon as I do that I move in to the left lane, actually I drive in the left lane always, unless I overtake... I will even move over to let you pass if you tailgate me to avoid getting rear-ended, I've seen it to many times .. I may add that in my doughters case it was a 6 lane road ( 3 lanes each way) with a 60 kmh speed limit and because of traffic she was only doing 30-40 kmh. If it was a high speed road who knows ........ I dont even want to think about it . For whatever reson , if you rear end someone its YOUR fault and NOT the one in front of you , they have the right to be there and pull up as hard as they have to .

Easy....hmmmmm... I didn't say easy , depends who is doing it . Someone that knows what they are doing, should do it in 4 -6 hours depending on what goes wrong, its a tight fit in there ...No mods needed though, direct fit .

Luck has nothing to do with it dude. The 4WD failed to stop, it makes no difference why he failed to stop. I like your type of driver, tailgates me , right up my ass and you have no way of stopping if for some reason I have do. You rear end me then you get out and blaim me for it, I had that before sveral times. The most recent that comes to mind, my doughter driving the car in front pulls up for some reason, RED P plater behind her in a Laser runs in to her, gets out of the car and abuses her for stopping. When he got the repair bill ( of course he wasn't insured he doesn't even want to know about it. Ah well the original $1100 repair bill cost him $2000+ by the time he finaly paid. Here is a lesson for you and others that insist on tailgating ( especially driving old poorly cars with poor or not well maintained brakes), keep your distance , reaction takes time as well as the the fact that the car in front of you may have much superior brakes than and tyres that you ...

They will bolt on , just use your old lines and new gaskets and copper washers on the lines . If they dont come with actuators you can use yours as well but the N1's are ajustable, like these.

Don't forget its a 8-9 yo car that has been in a rusty enviroment all these years by the looks of it . Look for a cleaner axample or one that has been repaired so you dont see it .

Independent rear suspenssion.

[ . Who caused the accident then?

Series I GTR