wrxhoon

Well you can do that as well but if you take out the CORRECT fuse is enough, if uncertain take the negative off the battery. The reason I don't say to do this is bacause a lot of people have trackers in their cars and disconnecting the battery will call you or the monitoring company. I'm glad i was ablr to help you . If you have any probs post or P.M.

Take the cover plates off ( plastic on either side of the wheel) then undo the airbag ( take the fuse off first and never put your head near it). You will need a T50 torx bit to undo it though, if you don't have one repco will . When the bag is off you unplug the wire to it then put the wheel in the centre ( exacly) undo the nut ( 19mm from memory) but leave a couple turns still undone . Pull on the wheel as hard as you can and it may come off , if not use a gear puller on it , that will get it off for sure. If the wheel was spot on centre when you pulled it off , put the other one spot on centre and do it up, before you put the bag back on take it for a spin to see if the wheel is spot on centre.

The pic is not very clear so i cant tell if you have the bolt that holds the block on . As BHdave said the block is threded and is bolted on the alternator with another bolt M8 from memory, you undo this a little then turn the long ajusting bolt until you have the correct tension and tighten the other bolt .

I have this ,P.M. an offer if you like .

Hi Anthony , Here are pics of my toyo proxes, they are 265x35x18. First one shows all tyres and then every tyre with the ruler in the groove . Let me know if you have any questions or if you want a pic of the face of the tyre. Cheers, Jerry

Only if you can sell ice to the Eskimos.

In older cars when you had top gears with 1 to 1 in both manual and autos, autos always had lower ratio diffs ( lower number but actualy higher diff, longer legs). The reason for that, the torque converter in the auto slips so it makes easier to take off and because it slips lower high speed . Most late model cars don't use a straight gear anymore and most autos have a very high top gear ( around .7-.8 to one, even lower) . Thats the reason you don't need a higher diff in autos now so it wouldn't surprise me if the auto was the same as a manual. These days most cars have a lock up converter in top gear ( even top 2 some of them with 5 or more ratios) .I have no idea what the skyline ratios are though.

Take the cover off and have a look, depends on the car you have, could be a lot of stuff.

The easiest way is by checking the ID plate ( blue plate on the firewall), as others said it has a W instead of a G in a none V-spec. There are a lot of other differences, some very minor but everything can be changed so the ID is the best way . There is NO extra bracing under the car in a V-spec, they are all the same V-spec and none have the same bracing. The finned diff is a good indication as is all the plumbing that goes to it . ALSD on the cluster ( how easy is this to change) . Brake ducts on te V-spec directing more air to the brakes is another . The strutts are different ( same colour so they look the same and they are interchangeable) and the ride is a little lower on the V-spec. Other stuff is more difficult to see without taking stuff off ( like computers)

That will depend on the dyno of the day dude , don't take to much notice of the power it makes, take it to the strip and see what trap speed you gat that will give a better indication of the average power tha car makes in the RPM you are using. Stock turbos will not give you a lot of power up high but with mods you are listing you could see a high 11 or flat 12 pass. I have less mods than you in mine but with HKS GTSS turbos + my car is heavier than yours and I still managed 11.8 at 118 mph.

I don't have any but I can get them at any time as long as I get 5 to get them at $140 . If anyone else wants any I only need a couple of days to get them in . West , if you have any problems finding posts, I can them for you here for about $18 for the 2 including the screws. Don't hold me on the price as its a long time ago .

Looks like you are in Melbourne so I don't know but if you have "battery world" there try them . Battery posts come in 2 sizes so you will need the smaller ones if you still have the stock terminals and they are hard to find. The bigger ones are aesy to find at most sealed battery retailers and they are brass. make sure you get the alen key m6 bolts too because you won't be able to use your hex m6 bolts.

Hmm.... Another RB with a spun bearing???

I have one in Sydney, P.M. with an offer if you like .

I know exacly how they work and I had several in my cars pre-GPS systems. When you say wide coverage in Sydney, its only metro 20km north of Hornsby and thats it . If you stole the car from hornsby in less than 10 minutes its out of coverage .

I would use 275x35x18's , Toyo T1R's are a good street tyre, falken ST 115's , depends on how much money you want to spend. As for tramming you are going to get it with 10.5" rims , it doesn't matter what tyres you use.

They are useless outside Sydney metro, I live about 10 minutes form the F3, if someone stole it and drove on the F3 in another 10 minutes they can be out of range for good . At least with GPS I'll know as soon as they moved it . even if ot was a metre. Don't forget everytging has limitations, in my case nobody will start my car, even they use another computer. the only way to take it is by towing it .

SOLD kids, pending payment. Must have been very cheap, so many P.M.s , ah well good luck to the new owner...

Blue under hard acceleration sounds like rings to me, of course turbo seal will do the same thing, stemseals will smoke downhill of throtle. Don't forget slightly worn or not bedded in rings won't always show on a compression test because the oil blocks the gap and you could have perfect comp. Actualy a slightly worn engine ( bottom end, not worn valves) could have higher comp due to the fact that you may have carbon on the top of the pistons. Do a leakdown test , then you will know for sure if you are loosing comp.

I have a full set of Brembos ( front and rear) , calipers and pads. Looking for $1590, I'm in Sydney but will post at buyers expence. Payment cash on pick up or d/d for interstate buyer. Email, P.M. or phone Jerry on 0408 973 245. SOLD

Ezitrak much better and you monitor it yourself if you wish, Quiktak have very limited cover . http://www.ezitrak.com.au/

Thats about 12.5 kg, it will cost you about $40 from Sydney to Melbourne .

When i was in Japan last I saw a set of silver rims and a set of gunmetal (looked like blackchrome) . I think they were both original limited edition ( they looked original ) but can't say for sure .

No , you will need to mod extensively to fit.

I have a series I GTR wheel with the airbag ..