wrxhoon

No sorry mate, I wouldn't use cast wheels on my GTR. I didn't know they come in 10" .....

You have a N1 block, there is one better, the Nismo GT block , markings are RRR but they only made 300 of them and they were very pricey.

I have 2 steering wheels that I want to sell as I dont have use for them . 1) R33 GTR series III with the airbag in excellent condition, looking for $330. SOLD 2) R33 GTR series I with the airbag in excellent condition, looking for $275. SOLD I'm in Sydney but I will pack and send interstate at buyers expense. Payment cash on pick up or D/D interstate buyers . Email : [email protected] P.M. here or phone Jerry at : 0408973245

Here you go mate, I took this pic in Japan, this 33 didn't have its front guards rolled and she had stock suspenssion, I can't tell you for certain that you won't rub the inner guards ( plastic) as didn't drive the car. Other people have them on their GTST's you may want to ask someone that has them on their car. Dezz, have you tried them on a 33 GTST ?

Bump

I have a set of 34 GTR rims:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=145896&hl=

Push.

Why do you say that ? If the car is still in gear ( it would be when moving) and you switch it off you still have vacium assistance for your brakes and you still have assistance on your steering ( don't forget the engine is still turning, its just not firing so it will came to a stop ). Unless the car is an auto you don't have any problem at all, different story with autos though. I have that in my cars as well , I would't be without it.

No pic here mate but if you mean that the trip meter and addometer don't work ( if the actual speedo works) your problem is the oddo driver, it could be stuffed ( fairly common on skylines with mechanical drivers) . Some times they stuff them up when the clock them ....

Still looking. i'm sure someone has a stuffed cluster somewhere .

Cash transections above $10k must be reporteted by the finantial institutions ( all business for that matter) so when you deposited in your account it will be reported . Nothing to worry about as you haven't done anything wrong , you sold the car for cash ( no crime there). I prefer to get cash from someone I suspect as dodgy, at least you have the money. As long as you filled the back of the rego paper and actually sighted his drivers licence, you have done the right thing , its not your duty to investigate the buyer . Now send the paper to the RTA as soon as you can and thats the end of the matter.

I thought you said valve clearance, stem to guide clearance is double on the exhaust valves at around 2-3 thou" from memory and about 1-1.5 thou"on the inlet.

Depending on how damaged your old lock is, if the wafers are still in good nick its an easy job.. I dont know if you already removed your old ( smashed ) lock and alloy housing that goes around the steering shaft. If you did you would have noticed the the way it bolts around the shaft, 2 bolts without heads. Thats the reason they told you, you do the bolts up until the heads break off. When you install the new one you really have to use new bolts with heads that snap . I don't want to go in to more detail on a public forum ( i don't want to tell would be thieves how to ) so P.M. if you want to know more .. By the way $35 to change the barrel so your old key fits is very reasonable ..

) I think you will find that the inlet valve clearance should be bigger at .45mm (18thou") and the exhaust .38 mm(15 thou"). On most heads the exhaust side has larger clearance, RB26's are the other way around .

Yea but his vary a lot more ... Do a leakdown test and you will see where you loosing compression...

You will find the engine was miss-timed to far and when he tighten the cam down the valves on number 6 kissed the top of the piston. He didn't wake up to it and kept tightening the cam until he heard the bang when the valve snapped. ( don't forget the other valve maybe bent) You will find if you take the cYl head off you see the valve imprint ( broken one and the one next to it ) on the top of the piston. Armed with this and a letter from an expert to say the probable cause you can go to the department of fair trading and have a win . If I was you I would just front up and tell him that " iIwill take the to another shop have the cyl head off and they will se the valve imprint on the top of the piston ". Try to convince him that you then will take it to fair trading unless he agrees to pay for a top end rebuilt . I wish you luck... I feel for you ..

My choice for a stock engine HKS GTSS or R34 N1

Still for sale, make an offer if you like.

How much would you pay for a pair ? P.M if you wish .. and I'll consider.

You have a P.M.

Me too, they don't allow pushbikes at WSID....

I couldn't agree more with that Geoff, I just didn't want to post that on a public forum .

AR 53 is correct for R34 GTR turbos, I wouldn't beleive HPI mate, trust me and others here that had these turbos off and seen them in real life, they have CERAMIC exhaust wheels.. Of course they will last longer that older none ball bearing turbos at higher boost but i have known them to let go as well . I may add that I haven't seen any let go in the original car for some reason they seem to go whan they are re-fitted to a different car. Others may or maynot confirm this but that's my experiance .

I have a set of R33 mats in sydney, genuine Nissan .

Positive mate, ball bearing ceramic exhaust wheel .