wrxhoon

No you don't, you fill it up from the filler plug on the side of the box. If you fill it from the gearstick it will go in the transfer case!!

80 series turbo diesel Landcruiser will do the job just fine and she will pull well uphills with reasonable fuel consumption. You may have to fork out a little over $10 k though and they are 15 years old now but tough as nails . You need brakes for over 750 kg loads , overiders on one axle up to 2000 kg, anything over that you must have a break away system and its easier with electric over hydrolic these days, just like the brakes on some cars, like bmws even 100 series landcruisers have them .

I think you will find someone painted them silver .

Like i said R34 xenons don't comply with ADR ( not self laveling or self clean) so they did the right thing by convering them. If they cut the cable deep inside the h/light you can't re-convert them, your best option is to buy a set of xenons or go to the compliancer and offer to exchange them with a xenons for another car they comply. It will save them converting and you will have decent lights ( not legal though)

I put tnem in front of the radiator naxt to the cooling fan, with a slight mod to the air cond drier they fit just nice there.

Your lights have been converted to halogen so they comply with ADR, the R34 xenons don't. You will find they took out the xenon globes, the balasts and they cut the plug that goes on the globe, depending on how close they cut the wire you may/maynot be able to reconvert back to xenons . Even if you could you have to have the balasts and globes . The writing on the h/light assembly is there to tell you that the lights have been converted( as you said the lights still say Xenon on them ). Converted xenons are shocking in the rain, i don't know how you put up with them. Factory halogens are good but of course factory xenons are much better.

Good used NUR v-specII or NUR M-spec examples bring as much or more money that when they were sold new in Japan. You can't compare this car to a 99 model GTR ( non V-spec) with 100k k's and more than likely full of rust that sells for 3 mil JPY .. For the record only M-specs and NUR M-specs have the factory leather trim, NUR V-spec II's have the normal GTR seats that any V-spec II has ( darker than series I). They do have steel wheeled turbos with ajustable actuators and 300kmh speedo. Suspension is the same as normal V-spec II ( if its a V-specII ) and same as an M-spec if its an M-spec.

If you want 86 mm , i have 5 as well.

I have both h/lights to suit series I or series II in Sydney .

Yes they will fit a 34 GTR..

I have a pair of headlights in excelent condition but they don't come with globes, make an offer via P.M. if you like . I'm in Sydney so you can inspect before you buy .

Much easier to start the banjos but i prefer the steel lines on my car.

If you can do dump pipes without removing turbos you should be able to do turbos with engine in the car . When you strip all the pipes and you have only manifolds and turbos left, the hard work starts . A set of 3/8 sockets extensions and unis are good . Unbolt the oil and water lines from the turbos ( the 2 banjo bolts from each turbo ), unbolt the front turbo ( bend the locking plates back to undo the 4x13mm nuts ), lower the turbo a little so you can get to the bottom manifold nuts with a 3/8 drive extension, you feed it through the gap between the turbo and the manifold . Carefully move the oil and water lines, bend them low not near the benjo , remove the front manifold then the front turbo with the dump should come out. You don't need to remove the power steer pump but you may remove the oil tank out of the way . Do the same with the rear turbo . I assume you would have undone the front pipes, the turbo brackets and oil returns from under the car first. If you don't have a workshop manual download one its good to have in case you get stuck . The hardest part is when you install the turbos ( in the reverse order of course) to start the oil and water line banjos( rear one is the hardest) thats why its important not to bend the lines very much and not near the banjo bolts . The job can be done in about 5 hours everything going well and if you are experienced, allow double that for you and after a few skinned fingers and a lot of swearing you will be fine. A hoist helps so you dont lie on the floor but you can do it without, a magnet is good and make sure you cover all the holes so you don't drop anything in there .

I don't know what you or your mate knows about RB26's and ceramic turbo wheels ( by the look of it stuff all). I'm not an internet mechanic, i speak from experience and i have posted the evidence above ( post 12) if you care to have a look. I guess if you have no idea about engines you won't know/believe how the pistons are like that they are . As you can see in the pics there is no ringland damage or broken rings there, the pistons are scored badly and you can see on the top of the pistons the pits from the ceramic/pieces, some are still embeded in there. Ceramic pieces were also embeded in the cyl head, the cyl bore was scored just like the pistons are . I have seen several more RB26's after one of the turbos has spat the exhaust wheel ( most of the times the rear for some reason) and there is always some damage to the bore /pistons, most of the time not as bad as the ones in the pic though. I know of one RB 26 that spat a turbo, they replaced both turbos and the engine was going fine but with a little more blowby than before the turbo went. A compression test was done and it was fairly normal, down a little on a cyl 4+5 ( from memory 10psi), a leakdown test was done and she was 20-30% on the rear 3 cyls, the front 3 were all under 10%. When the engine was stripped you could see the bore and pistons scored by the ceramic dust in the rear 3 cyls. The pistons i have in the above pic are scored very bad and compression on the the rear 3 cylinders was very low (30-60psi ) the front 3 had some damage as well but still had 160 psi comp. I still have the damaged turbo if you want to see a pic of it just say so and i'll put it up, only the exhaust wheel is missing, the compressor wheel is still there intact . How would you explain the ceramic dust from the exhaust side will go in the inlet ? The only way back in the engine is sucked back through the exhaust valves. I have my theories how it happans on RB 26's and not on RB 25's but i'll leave that for now. Just think for a minute, i'm not the only one that has stripped an RB26 and found ceramic dust damage, there is a few others here as well. Do you think we are all iddiots? Tell me how manny RB 26's you ar your mate have stripped?

This is what happens to the pistons when a ceramic turbo lets go in the GTR.

Because its made by Mitsubishi

Very hard ....... Only made 300.

Is that your block Charlie?

Exhaust side near the front turbo oil return.

Yes but you will have to check timming with a light to make sure its 15 degrees .

I hope you know R33 GTR air guide is not the same as GTST.

Replyed to your PM

Use a small angle grinder to cut a groove on it (doesn't have to be all the way to the crank) then a drift to split it . You may find that the heat from the grinder will loosen it up . If i was you i would use an oxy torch on it first , just heat the gear and it will come, always worked for me .

I have some stuff in Sydney, like exhaust manifolds, dumps, twin turbo pipe, some pipping oil+coolant lines etc.. Let me know if you are interested in any or all and i'll search to see what i have .

. .Thats your problem, the clutch is very rattly. You are welcome to listen to mine if you like but i dont think you have anything to worry about the box .