wrxhoon

A few minutes ago, burgandy R33 GTR, plate GTRXXX on Oaks rd close to North Rocks road, i use to see you there a few years ago every Sunday when i had my burgandy R33 ( GTR33R).

As Duncan said but R34 turbos are ball bearing .

Genuine R34 Gtr rims are about 9.5 kg each .

have you had the engine checked ( compession, leakdown) ? You may have stuffed bores from ceranic dust. Not knowing exacly what turbos you have i wouldnt be able to tell you when a healthy engine would boost.

You can re-use your oil lines from the stock turbos but as i said above its easier to fit the banjos if you use braided lines cause they are flexible. Even with new lines you still need to use the oil restrictors though.

I have one in my car and i wouldn't drive a performance car without one . I monitor my own so as soon as someone opens the door i get a call from the unit in car . It will say i have detected an intruder in your car , it will give me the location of the car and if the car is moving, the speed and the direction its heading. It will give me the option of shuting the engine down all i have to do i press a button on my phone, any phone for that matter. If someone desides to carjack me i can give them the car and as soon as they go turn the engine off. It will even call me if the car is put on a tow truck, not forced open or started and it has a back up battery if some smart ass desides to cut the main battery . Too expensive you say, well not much more than some people pay for a decent alarm , about $1250 fitted and the only running cost is the cost of a simcard, i pay $9 per month.

You dont need new lines ( braided lines will make fitting easier though when it comes to re-installing the banjos). I dont know about the garretts but i can confirm that HKS turbos come with restrictors. As said before you need less oil with the ball bearing turbos, if you dont put them in you risking your seals. Braided lines wont slow oil flow you must use these restrictors . HKS GTSS turbos come with everything you need , even come with adjustable actuators so consider that when you compare prices . As for the turbo choice it depends on what you want from your car. AS you have a stock engine i would only use small turbos, GTSS are ideal for that and keep boost low if you want your engine to last . If you use these turbos you only need 550 injectors and a good standard pump will be enough. Your pump is very old so upgrade to a Nismo unit to be on the safe side .Stock air flow meters would be ok. I will be very surprised if you dont have any damage to the engine, my guess is some ceramic dust has gone in the engine and has scored the bore of the 3 rear cylinders ( i assume is was the rear turbo that went). If you dont have any damage you are one of the lucky ones . If you believe dyno figures my car made 290 rwkw with GTSS turbos , 550 injectors and 15psi , all stock unopened engine.

Worn selector ( it doesn't go in gear 100%) or more than likely warn gear. It will get worse as time goes on..

Ever tried fitting these bastards? I wouldn't use them , they are a pain in ass to fit , they have nowhere to fix the turbo brackets either. They are good if you use their own turbos though . If you fit these in your car while you have the turbos out, take the rubber air/cond discharge pipe out and replace it with copper, if you dont it will fry in no time.. Like Blitz said HKS are a direct fit and you can use the turbo brackets on them just like the stock dumps.

No they don't but have a look at your key, does it have a chip in it? No doupt someone would have fitted on e here though. Do you have remote locking ?

Its only the low beams that are HID, high beams should be hals. You can't see the globe unless you pull it off, they should have projector lens .

It should have the xenons, under the old system they left them alone. Its a bit suss that they both stopped working, it sounds like a fuse or even the combo switch, not the globes. Do you have high beams? To test them you don't even have to take them out , just power them up from any 12 volt battery.

If you want to do it yourself, take the fuel cover door with you to a auto paint shop and give them the code as well ( qm1 sounds right)and they will mix and colour match it for you . Just get 1/2 a lt , should be a bout $25-30 for acrylic and you will have plenty left for next time. Dont atempt to spray it yourself if you never done it before it will be crap.

I use the Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate - Drives almost like a standard clutch but it does rattle.

You can adjust the rod , do a search, i put a couple of pics there before.

The ones sold here in Australia are made in China ( thats why they are only $8) . The ones sold in Japan By Nissan are made in Japan .

Are you talking about the adjusting bolt?( 12mm head on the side) Or the bolt that secures the pump ( 14 mm head). The first one is very easy to get to . You must loosen the first one before you attemp to swivel the pump in order to get the belt off. All you need is a 14mm 3/8 drive socket ( you may fit a 1/2" drive but 3/8 is much easier), turn the pump drive so the the bolt head lines up with one of the holes put your socket in there and loosen it .. Dont even think of breaking the belt to get it off, how are you going to get the new one on???

Take the fuel pump fuse off . She won't start without spark plugs ...

With WOT the redings will be higher, make sure you keep cranking the engine until compression stops rising. A fully charged 40+amphour battery should be good enough to complete the test, make sure all the plugs are out before you start the test. Busky2k, they are not 'artificially' high if you have carbon built up, the combustion chamber is somewhat smaller so compression will increase. Same as if you shave the cyl head or block or even have a thiner h/gasket.

Number 3 looks a little on the low side in comparison with the others. Assuming you have a good gauge , done the test when the engine was at operating temp ( very hard without geting burnt), the starter, battery were good and had the throttle wide open then all cylinders read low, they should be around 170 psi.@300rpm khunjeng: carbon built up will increase compression..

If you are in Sydney go to SSPI in sutherland, they have a very nice ( stock) manual 34 for sale , they may trade your auto wit some$.

sorry guys the batteries are out of stock until the end of August, if anyone still wants one please P.M.

I have one 87mm bore in Sydney.

They come up at yahoo from time to time but expect to pay big money especialy if you want a v-spec MFD.

GTST, sorry i dont have a spare GTR box, if i did i would be looking for more money, more like $200 with snorkel.