wrxhoon

I very much doubt anyone will do a reasonable job for $1500 , especially in black, black shows everything. A decent paint job should be around the $4 k mark. Don't forget you have to remove everything off to do a reasonable job, including windscreens, badges, door handles skirts front and rear b/bars etc. You have to tape inside the door jambs, guards so you dont get overspray there as well or better still remove doors and guards as well. It doesn't take long to actually spray the paint on the car but a lot of work to prepare it and even after you sprayed it . Of course some people will do it for $999 but you only going to get a $999 job if that ...

Use a bigger slave, the slave will travel less when pushing the clutch pedal so it will feel like your take up is not as sudden and as a bonus you will have a lighter pedal but dont expect it to be like a stock clutch ..

I have one for sale for $190 , unmarked and i can arrange fitting for you if you like. I'm in Sydney too.

Anyone else, closer to Sydney would be good.

Looking for an RB26 block, can be 86.5 mm bore, will consider complete engine suitable for rebuilding. Post here, p.m. or phone. 0408 973 245

Box has to come down, no gasket, just use gearbox gasket goo. It's a good idea to change the selector shaft seal. Like others said its fairly straight forward when the box is on the ground. Pull the top cover off and knock the rollpin out enough so you can release the selector shaft. Its a bitch to R+R the box off the car on the floor though much easier with a hoist and a tranny jack. Drain the oil ouf of both before removing and dont forget to bleed the attessa. You dont have to remove the dumps ( just as well they would be impossible to remove on the car), just the front pipes.

Howie, Yes they are suitable, if you want them i can get them here in Australia for you for about $18-20 ( from memory). Duncan i dont think i still have your phone number but i should have the batteries on Tuesday sometime . P.m. your number and i'll give you a buz if you like .

Yes , i'll have them here on Tuesday, let me know if you want one .

Yes GTR pipes and i have a set of silicon pipes as well.

You should have it on the drivers side, covering the fuel filler tube. Nothing on the passengers side.

Yes, the way its in the cyl head, thats upright, i never plyed around with rb25 lifters but usully the whole is on the top of the lifter( Sr20 are like that so i asume rb25's will be the same ) You should also measure the lifters for wear/ clearances, when you install them start the engine and run it for a few minutes without load, if they are not quiet after that they more than likely need replacing.

If you need the immobiliser ring , just go to Nissan, they are about $220 from memory and you can still use your own key, if you need a key they have them, about $90 then you get it cut to suit your lock and Nissan will program it for about $50-60.

You can clean them with kero if you like but you must bleed them if you don't they may not bleed themselves. The best way to bleed them, submerge them in oil upright, get a thin strong wire put it in the whole and press it down then pump the lifter with your hand ( while holding the wire pressed) until all the little bubbles go. When the lifter is bled it will be very hard, you wont be able to push it down after you take the wire out.

I do have an M-Spec

$50 for the clear indicators and $2800 for the rims , no gutter scrapes and toyo tyres with plenty of tread.(265x35x18)

I have the side clear indicators and i will have the rims in about a months time, depending on how much you are prepared to buy.

Sounds like you didn't fill it right up , there is a bolt on the plenum side , you undo that and it makes it easy to fill the radiator/engine with coolant ( i hope thats what you used , not water as you say). If you don't undo this bolt to let the air out she won't fill up , thats the reason it took more, i would think by now she should be full though . If you got it very hot there is a chance that your headgasket maybe blown or at worse the head cracked, if the oil is not milky and there is no oil in the coolant, it's probably OK.

Sorry dude but i thought someone in the later primary school years would be able to calculate that. If you are still in primary school you have a few years before you can drive a car so you don't need to worry about a car for a while .

This is how it works : Cost of car in Japan including any transport de-rego costs in japanese yen . When the car comes here you will pay 10% import duty on the converted AUD cost, they take the exchange rate the day it leaves port in Japan. On top of that you pay freight customs, q/t steam cleaning towing to the compliance shop and your customs broker (if you have one) . All that should be about $2000 you add that to the car cost and import duty, then you 10% gst on the total and thats the final landed cost . Then comes compliancing costs , that will depend on the car you import and the work needed, you have to arrange that with your RAW before you import it. The RAW will get the import approval and pay the goverment the $160 fee . When you get the compliance plate on the car your RAW should supply you with a blue slip( in NSW) you buy a green slip ( NSW) and take all the paper work to the RTA. You will pay for the rego ( depending on the weight of the car $240-340 ) + stamp duty 3% of the market value of the car, up to $46k and anything over that its 5%.

One is for the drivers seat heating the other for the external mirrors ( heating again) the passengers seat heater control is on the left of the steering.

Is the Gtr cluster a v-spec?

You have email with picture.

I have an Apexi but its over your budget, its very thick (135mm i think) and about 600x230 from memory, if you are keen let me know and i'll measure but its double your budget .

I have a full set, pm an offer but i'm in Sydney, i dont know how much it will cost to post to W.A.

I need a better /closer pic