wrxhoon

If you are purchasing a 34 GTT it should have xenons but they have to convert them to hals for compliancing. The xenon lights look different to hals , if you have a good pic of the car showing the lights i can tell you if they are xenon or halogen . Its not hard to swap, only xenons have the switch but you dont need it .

Engine number will help.

Did you ask Just jap how much they want for a used GTR cooler? you will find its a lot more then his asking price.

No mate, just the tailshaft needs to be unbolted .

Looks like rear seal , easy fix .

Are all the springs in? If you are going to clean the lifters you have to bleed them before instalation, if you are not going to clean them you put them in and oil can upright . Is compression zero in number 1? Whats the compression on the other cylinders? Was is making a racket when you first started it? is it quiet now ? So you pulled the valves out and relapped them , correct? Did you bend a valve ? Did you put the valves back in the same spot as they were before? You have to tell us a lot more detail if you want a possible sollution . You are not having much luck there Joe, is this number 3 rebuilt atempt? By the way i dont think your problem is a lifter.

Did Duncan Foster assemble the cyl head or did you ? If you did did you lupp the lifters out? If yes how did you store them ? How is the compression on all the other cylinders? Have you had it checked?

Thats why you use a sealed gel-cell battery, even a vented battery needs maintenance ( its safe to use) , very hard to check the water level in a GTR ( 33 or 34).

I would continue to use avgas on that car Richard, not very expensive either .. I'm very sceptical on ehtenol especially on old cars .

I have one in my car , i wouldn't drive a GTR without one .

I'm a little sceptical about this shell extreme b/b . Did you sell it tommy?

If you believe in flying cops.....

If the clutch still operates normal , just gets heavier, it could be the vacium booster attached to the clutch master cylinder. The boot reservoir is for the attessa.

AVCR boost controller ( blue screen ) for sale was installed in a GTR .It includes everything as removed from the car and all ecu wires marked for easy intalation. I have the mounting bracket and english book as well, in excellent condition $420 including postage . P.M. phone or sms . 0408973245 SOLD in about 2 minutes ( pending payment)

$550 including a big body cat and the pipe has a little magic cat in it as well

Look at the housings, if you can't see the little tag with the numbers on them, you should be able to see the A/R. If its a/r 60 you have the big Nismo/N1 turbos and they will have steel wheels. Another sign is the actuators are ajustable on N1's, although someone could have used normal actuators on N1's or ajustables on stock turbos. If the turbos keep spinning after you turn the engine off for say 20-30 seconds then you have ball bearing turbos .

I have one in Sydney, s/s normal muffler and a resonator and it includes a high flow ( big body cat) a little outside your budget though.

Take it back to them and tell them to bleed the system as well if you want it to work.

This looks like a genuine NUR M-SPEC, going by the pics . There no NUR specific body kits, from the outside they just like any other V-SPEC II, or any other M-SPEC ( if they are M-spec like the silver one for sale). They have different speedos ( 300kmh), different colour engine, I.D. plate, rear badge, turbos etc..

I have seen plenty Chinese rims broken ....What do you expect when you pay $150 for a rim?

Whats an NUR kit?

Have a look at this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=62252

Finish is the least of your problems. They are cheap cast Chinese rims ( cheap and nasty), i wouldn't use them on a GTR thats for sure.

Both ball bearing, GTRS'S are newer turbos, bothe turbs about the same lag.

The batteries will be here next Tuesday