wrxhoon

You may have to find and by-pass the immobiliser, find out what it cuts out and by-pass it . Before you do that make sure you have a good fully charged battery . You shouldn't even need the cluster to be plugged in to start it . To make it easier for you to find what the immobiliser cuts out, get someone to crank it and see if you got spark( take one plug out earth it and se if there is spark ). My guess is they cut the CAS and maybe the injectors? Good luck with it ..

Just a small nail hole repaired from the inside with a mushroom is fine. Dont let them plug it from the outside ( it was ilegal for a few years but its legal again) and if its on the sidewall throw the tyre away .

I ran a 33 GTR ( seriesI, v-spec) at WSID a while ago, she had a power f/c, batmil front pipes, ex-force catback and ebc ( 1 bar boost) she did 12.3 @109 mph. Stock 33 GTr boost is about 10 psi ( with restrictor in and stock exhaust). GTRS have 2 recirculating valves, they are on the drivers side inner guard ( if you take the plastic inner gurd off you will see them ). They dont blow any smoke but if you have pods you can hear them .

When they convert the xenons to halogens they usually take the balast out, take the xenon globe out and cut the wire that goes to the plug that plugs on the globe. You can get a balast and put it back on and you can get a globe ( xenon) and put that back on. The problem is when they cut the wire they cut it very close to the little igniter inside the h/light assembly and its impossible to re-conect it unless you pull the h/light appart ( pull the front lens off) . You will find you have halogen globes in but because the assembly was designed for xenon the light is very poor so much so you cant see at night in the rain . Your best bet is to use an aftermarket kit or buy a set of xenon lights and then sell your hals . If you was in Sydney i could help but melbourne is a bit far ..

Are you sure you have a 34 GTR manual? Are you sure its not a GTT?

Correct fill up to that level, the drain plug is on the side of the tranfer case( drivers side). You can fill it from the top like Duncan said but you wont know when its full... You can use D-matic or dextron in the tranfer case, of course Nissan will tell you to use their D-matic .

I have 2x225x45x18 you can have them for $40

I have the engine manual too, i also have the R34 manual ( it doesn'cover GTR though). You can buy the R34 GTR manual from Nissan japan but my Japanese is not that great, actually it's none existant. I haven't been able to fine an english translation but i would think you could get one from Nissan U.K.

I want one as well...

As long as you know you cant buy new cranks from Nissan for RB26. Depending on how bad the crank is you may not be able to re-use it, dont forget you can only go 10" thou ( 0.25 mm ) undersize. For $5 k you will get a very basic re-built at best, depending on what it needs to be done so budget for more. $2 k for a 32 RB26 is ok as long as its re-useable . If you do buy it and you want some good forged pistons and rods i have a set of brand new Tomei 87mm forged pistons and Tomei rods, you can have for $3400.

By the time you land it it will be over $1500, a lot of money for used Nissan crank when they were only about $1000 here, when they were available .

Actualy its less risk buying a car that has money owing on it. This way you know for sure you are going to get a clear tittle. Just pay the bank first and the balance to the owner, very simple.

Black smoke=fuel, blue smoke is oil .

You battry is to small to cope, use a bigger battery.

Pressure test the cooling system, if it leaks you wont know if its blown headgasket or cracked cyl head.

If you want a standard GTR actuator i have one in Sydney $30 .

[ Does driving with a clutch like this damage my other internal components?

Let him find out the hard way, like the present owner . I know the history of this car, the current owner has had it for a few months( not sure how long) he tried to pass EPA in Penrith as well but she failed, the engine has lots of blow-by, to pass you will have to REBUILT it. If you are happy to do this then go and buy it . The car has done a lot more than 100k k's, if i remember right it has a Nismo cluster that has 100k k's on it. The car has been in Australia for a long time about 1998 she came to Aus.

Make an offer for the rods .

Nothing..... If i was to do that i would do a total rebuild though .... Each to their own.

Who told you that? Of course you can check the block for warpage in the car when the cyl head is off.

Why do you want to remove the cyl head? If its just to change the h/gasket just leave it as it is, if it blows then remove and replace with a metal gasket. While the head is off you may want to service it and check the block for warping as well.

Nissan but they are very expensive.

That car was deregistered about 3 years ago, It has to have a full EPA. They have been trying to register it on and off since. She wont pass emissions, to much blow-by . Thats the kind of car you will buy for $25 k .

He is still looking i would say...... Someone i know bought a 2000 34 GTR ( no side airbags) , he paid 5 million Yen at auction + fob, you do the sums and see how much it cost him to land and comply.